Ah the mighty blended whisky. Makes up about 90% of all the whisky consumed in the world today and it is due to it’s global appeal that many of the single malts we know today have survived the ups and downs that effect whisky consumption from time to time. It’s simple economics really, as we find ourselves again in a double dip or is that double-double dip recession, not everyone has the readies at hand to be buying the latest single malt release, or have a selection at home to tap into from time to time. The blend is there, as it always has been, to bring whisky at a price point that most can afford and with as much variation in character within the category, if not more than the single malt, there is something for all. Of course not all are created with entry level price points, some “deluxe” blends compete pound for pound with an 18 year old single malt and some considerably more. But you can at least begin at the less wallet busting examples and happily dram the time away. I’ve got a few favourites that I always have in the cupboard, the every day tipples that hit the spot such as Wemyss, Cutty Sark, Grants and Tweeddale but I might have to make room for yet another – Banknote.
Banknote is a blend from independent bottler A.D. Rattray which, like their Stronachie brand, has been “resurrected” and is doing well in foreign markets. It hasn’t really seen much light in the UK yet but I am sure that will change. The basics of it are that it’s a 5 year old blend with the emphasis on a sherry character made up of a 40%/60% malt/grain mix and released at 43% ABV. I like the fact that they state clearly the age, it might be a brave move but I think the UK consumer is coming to terms with the fact that age is not everything.
Nose: A tight, sherry heavy nose with jarred apple sauce, high robust grain notes with spikes of peat, driftwood, newly varnished wood and quince jelly. Rich vanilla, almost fudge like with a caramel sauce overtone.
Palate: Oily and rich to the fore bolstered with very soft peat smoke followed closely by prickly sherry influenced spices. Orchard fruits bring a sweetness mid palate before becoming nutty (Brazil) with a light linseed oil.
Finish: Grippy and almost tannic on the finish as the nutty element fades leaving earthy spices and distant peat.
Summary: Certainly a richer style of blend and definitely a healthy amount of youthful grain in there but it all holds together rather well indeed. After the initial sherry hit, it settles to a fruity, gently spicy all rounder which I think will appeal to most.
When was the last time you heard someone say “Oh, I stay away from peated whisky as I’m not a fan”. I hear it in a regular basis as guests at Dramatic Whisky events come to grips with the various styles of drams on offer. But more often than not that statement is followed by “especially Islay“. Now, it’s this last part that sends me into a mini meltdown and it is truly the fault of the whisky industry from the past. Regions were to a point, a quick way of introducing people to various styles of whisky, but this lingering categorisation only serves to restrict the consumers choices rather than aid them. I wrote a bit about them here which goes into a bit more detail but basically, if you choose your whisky only by region, you’ll miss out on some gems in the whisky world which brings me neatly onto Bunnahabhain.
Bunnahabain, pronounced “Boona-haa-ven” and meaning ‘stream foot” or ‘mouth of the river’ with its location at the end of the Margadale river from where the distillery draws its water from, is located on the north-east part of the island rather isolated in comparison to the other distilleries on Islay. Since 1881 the distillery has been producing whisky and whilst it was true that at that point the whisky would have been peated, today it is one of only two distilleries on Isaly that does not have peated whisky as its “core release” the other being Bruichladdich. With its own floor maltings ceasing in 1963 its safe to say the change probably came some time around then.
So what of the whisky today? The most easily accessible are the 12, 18 and 25 year old whiskies with Toiteach as the limited edition “peated” style all at the higher abv of 46.3% and non chill-filtered, a move in recent times across the board from current owners Burn Stewart Distillers and welcomed by Bunnahabhain fans. I also had the good fortune to review the recent 40 year old release which was a stunning dram indeed. Bunnahabhain has always been a whisky I would opt for if I saw it on a back bar somewhere as its coastal style and soft character is just what I look for in my malts.
Nose: If ever a whisky had an aroma of its origins, this is it. Fresh sea air on a Scottish pebble beach. Samphire over driftwood and lifts of fresh ginger.
Palate: Chewy and rich with fresh ginger creams, malty mid palate and salted caramel. Warming yet still fresh notes of the sea.
Finish: Ginger and vanilla spice linger with a hint of earthy mocha.
Nose:The DNA of the seaside emerges first, salty air, tarry ropes wrapped in leather with bold sherry character. Date and fig loaf sprinkled with nutmeg and an espresso on the side.
Palate: Big on the sherry influence, spiced with mace, leather and hints of pipe tobacco and roasted brazil nut. There is still the core message of salted sweetness blended through this bold palate.
Finish: Waves of salty almonds washed down with sherry and a bundle of earthy spices behind.
Nose: Sweet leather and cherry wood polished with linseed oil. Rich spices, old velvet, driftwood and tarry rope - the nose twists and turns around the central elements.
Palate: Bursting with rich deep sherry soaked dark fruits, mixed spice and Demerara sugar. It seems spiky at first, but is instantly calmed by a creamy vanilla element, smooths out and relaxes leaving behind a trail of deliciousness.
Finish: Incredibly long, old leather, slight tannin grip and a hint of over roasted chestnut almost charred.
Nose: Immediate peat smoke but with an unmistakable coastal character. Sweet salty air and drifts of dry citrus peel (tangerine) in the background. Old fish and chips wrapper with a bit of honey, vanilla and samphire all in there.
Palate: A sweet smoke, rich and playful on the palate, parma ham and smoked figs with a slightly medicinal citrus edge somewhere between menthol and lime.
Finish: unsurprisingley it’s the sweeter side of the peat smoke that lingers, turning slightly salty at the end.
Summary: A fine line-up indeed with just about everythign you could ask for. The style is eveident throughout the range despite the change of cask, that coastal element shines and helps maintain the Bunnahabhain message.
There have been a few whiskies recently that have been revived in one way or another, Mackinlay’s Shackleton recovered from the ice of Antarctica or something slightly closer to home like The Tweedale for example, each with its own unique journey back towards our glasses once again. Bygone or lost distilleries are often very much sought after by the whisky fraternity but I think its just nice to hear that people go to the trouble to recreate something forgotten, bringing it back to new audiences and breathing a bit of life back into a brand such is the case with the latest sample to arrive at the desks of Dramatic Whisky HQ.
Stronachie distillery, Perthshire, was founded in the 1890s and remained in operation until 1928 when a shortgage of barley forced the then owners, St James Export Company Ltd, to close with the buildings eventually being demolished in the 1950′s. During its operation, the Stronachie brand was represented by Dewar Rattray and it was that company, known today as A.D. Rattray, that has brought Stronachie single malt back to life. After purchasing an early bottling of Stronachie at auction in the mid 1990′s, probably the last know example on the market, they set about recreating the malt from a small sample with guidance from Tim Morrison, formally of Morrison Bowmore and now owner of A.D.Rattray. It seemed that the character of the original sample most closely resembled current malt stock from the Benrinnes distillery helping move this project forward to its first re-release in 2001. The range currently available is formed of a 12 and 18 year old expression of which I have the 12 year old set out below. This particularr whisky is produced in small batches from a combination of two ex-sherry butts and four ex-bourbon casks.
Nose: Sliced green apple which has become slightly sweet with oxidisation, damp oak shavings, honey suckle and jasmine flowers (tea). Ground roasted hazelnuts which becomes a light charred note.
Palate: Rounded sweetness with a full malty note. Light spice of mace, cinnamon and white pepper before turning nutty (ground almond) with vanilla cream and freshly charred oak.
Finish: Lingering sweetness mixed with spice and a peppery grip.
Summary: It is of course a very difficult thing to try to recreate a malt, and it is difficult to know how closely this example matches the original product, so the only thing I can do is to sample the offering and review it as a stand alone which I am pleased to say is rather delightful. It certainly falls into my style of malt with a good balance of sweet and spice without too much overpowering vanilla and oak.
Curious thing marketing, you either get most of it or not. The message trying to be delivered can often be lost behind an all too clever and interesting vail of subterfuge. Case in point was the recent invitation I was very pleased to receive for dinner with a friend and chef/blogger That Hungry Chef to The Cube by Electrolux, a pop up restaurant (big white box) atop the Royal Festival Hall which would host a select number of chefs from around the world for a limited period – all supposedly using products from the Electrolux kitchen range to create stunning dishes and ever varied menus. I don’t do food reviews, whisky is my thing normally but that is not to say I don’t appreciate it. After years running Axis restaurant at One Aldwych and many other notable venues, I certainly think I have as broad an appreciation for cuisine as I do alcohol.
On the evening of the booking, London chose to offer up to the 20 guests gathered at the long dinner table, the most glorious of clear blue skies which later, as the meal progressed became an ethereal summer sunset. The nights service sprung from the creative mind of Claude Bosi, owner and chef at Hibiscus in Mayfair. His style is elegant, uncomplicated and often fun as was the case this evening as the tasting menu was delivered along with a splendid selection of wines for each course. The only dish that disappointed, and I do mean disappointed, was the chorizo, garden pea and whelk creation just rather lacking on all areas for me really, except the freshness of the peas but the other “also ran” ingredients really didn’t do much more than add colour to the dish. But one of seven courses not hitting the mark for me is ok right?
Salmon poached in olive oil with pigs head.
The evenings tasting menu consisted of the following courses:
Hibiscus Flower ‘tea’, with a carbonated pineapple foam
Lime and onion ravioli, broad beans
English peas, chorizo, chickweed and girolles (This one could have been skipped off in my opinion)
Wild salmon poached in olive oil, pigs head, and roast artichoke
Chicken breast, Liquorice & Banana with Kaffir Lime
Charlotte strawberries, celeriac jelly and szechuan pepper foam
Pea & mint in a chocolate case with coconut sorbet
Aero chocolates: milk chocolate and coriander seed, white chocolate and mint to finish off with.
Although the Cube is three walls of glass and west facing, the temperature within is ideal and the set up perfect for making new friends. The communal dining arrangement means that from the outset you are involved in conversation with your neighbours and who knows what you will discover. For me, it was the incredible versatility of the barbecue as extolled by MartiniChef, Paul Feeney who is about to embark on catering at the Olypic media centre. Paul assured us that it was going to be a breeze in comparison to some of his other contracted work but we will see when we meet up for a cocktail in a few weeks time how he really fared.
I bang my drum about whisky being such a perfect substance for bringing people together and this event had all the elements to create the type of convivial atmosphere I relish. After the coffee and petit fours of aero chocolate and cocoa nibs I asked if it would be OK to share out the dram I had brought in my ever present hip-flask. An 18 year old Glendullan courtesy of the SMWS which made for an excellent end to a superb evening with its remarkable fresh character of light fruits and vanilla with lingering soft cinnamon aftertaste an overall vibrancy that belies its age. Unfortunately, Claude is allergic to whisky so couldn’t partake and the disappointment was visible on his face, but he did use his considerable Gaelic conk to draw the aroma in. After all, I had to get whisky in there somewhere!. Certainly there were a few at the table who had never tried such a whisky so it was lovely to see the reaction, especially after such a wonderful dining experience.
A room with a view
I had eaten at Hibiscus some time ago, too long ago to remember what dishes I had on that particular visit, but I do remember the food being as good as it was on this evening. The added element of the setting, and the personal attention of Claude throughout the meal made this quite special indeed. The Cube by Elextrolux is only running for four months, (June 1st – 30th September) and it is half way through its appearance already. It is well worth trying to get a reservation before it heads off to another destination.
So will it make me rush out to purchase Electrolux appliances? Doubt it, but I might think of Hibiscus when I next pass a blender in John Lewis. The fact is, we didn’t actually see the preparation of the dishes as most were brought out from the open kitchen and placed in front of us although we were offered the opportunity to chat with Claude in the kitchen as he plated up- strangely no one took the offer up. Perhaps the televisation of celebrity chefs has us all well warned.
Apparently, the schoolchildren from the Orkney isles have a bit of trouble understanding that they are Scottish. They do know they are British, but it troubles their minds to comprehend they are Scottish such is the uniqueness of this cluster of islands just 10 miles off the north east coast. I suppose it is easily understood, after all it has had it’s fair share of ownership via Norway and the vikings using it as a bit of a stop-over for raids into Scotland and Ireland. It is certainly a checkered and interesting past with plenty of folklore and factual history to draw upon which is why the Highland Park distillery in Kirkwall is such an interesting one. Yeah sure, there are countless sites on the mainland with tales to tell but it seems to me that this wee corner of “Scotland” ticked along quite nicely without much interference from the mainland. Perhaps the ferry was too expensive for the excise man?
Nice then, that I got the chance to taste a bit of Orcandian history for myself in the form of the Highland Park 50 year old. It’s not a new release by any stretch, as the first bottles were available early last year- but at £10,000 per bottle there are few in the world lucky enough to taste it. I was happy to wait till now.
The oldest ever release from the distillery was given to us by Daryl Haldane, Highland Park brand ambassador and general nice guy- which is surprising as he is from Fife, which is not know for many happy people.
Nose: First notes are of heavy honey and rich maple with well polished leather, dried orange peel and new hide. A more perfumed element emerges of light clove and polished woods such as mahogany with a hint of brandy butter. Beyond all of this, a leafy green oil note emerges, similar to hop heads.
Palate: As expected, the palate is huge. Rich and chewy with those leather elements turning peppery then waves of the more prominent hop leaf again. The mid palate is nutty (almonds and brazil) with rich marzipan and a note of burnt plum. Surprisingly, the palate lifts towards the end with peppermint and fennel followed by liquorice.
Finish : Sweet and juicy soft liquorice takes over now allowing this massive dram to remain entertaining and offering a supreme lingering finish.
Normally a whisky of above average age is really hard to pull apart with the aromas and flavours so well integrated that they just merge into one. But the amazing thing with this is that even a couple of days after writing my initial notes and going back to try the last remaining dram the notes stand out incredibly. Every element is in there and each note rolls up to say hello in the most eloquent of fashions.
Only two venues in London stock a bottle, Dorchester Bar at the Dorchester and the newly opened Bulgari hotel, the latter of which is where we were fortunate enough to try this whisky. The bottle itself is said to be worth around £2,500, designed by jeweller Maeve Gillies, the solid silver casing that wraps around the bottle like a sinuous web of precious metal depicts all that is Orcadian. A visitor to the beautiful Orkney islands since a child, Maeve conveyed a natural and nautical theme in her Sterling silver bottle, evoking ropes, twisted seaweed and a metal finish that looked like it could have been a very old and precious object, discovered washed up on the beach. Set on the front is a disc of genuine Orcadian pink sandstone carved with Highland Park’s logo, sourced from the original quarry that built the incredible 12th century St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Behind this disc, viewable through the glass when the whisky has been finished, is an ethereal silver replica of the beautiful rose window inside the Cathedral.
The bottle is presented in a hand-carved Scottish oak box, also shaped to feel worn by wild elements, and set with a silver and glass porthole, through which the Highland Park logo on the bottle inside can just be viewed.
Each bottle is stamped with a silver hallmark, and in keeping with Highland Park’s policy of non sequential numbering, this one simply states 1 of 275 rather than bottle number one or two of 275.
So is it worth it? Well if you deduct the bottle price and look at the value of the liquid, then it isn’t an outlandish price for such a fabulous whisky. There are plenty others out there commanding far higher. Remember though, my rule for bottles with this kind of price tag, if you are going to buy it make sure you buy two- one to keep and one to share.
Now, at the end of the tasting session, (we also tried 12, 18, Thor and 21) I took a tour of the hotel and stopped off in the cigar room. This room is London’s only internal cigar room (its a loophole I can’t be bothered going into now- basically as shop) which is run by Davidoff cigar merchants on St James. I sat with Eddie, the son in the “father & son” operation and chatted about the comparison of whisky and cigars. Eddie then presented me with two beautiful cigars, which were hand rolled just two weeks prior. Alas, I couldn’t enjoy them in the lush surroundings as I had another tasting to dash off to- and I knew I might not give the other whisky a chance with HP 50 and a cigar on the palate. But I did ask about the cigars to add to the enjoyment later.
Eddie told me that they were the “Beaujolais” of cigars- to be enjoyed young and fresh. They had in fact been hand rolled just two weeks prior by Señora Dilia Hernandez who had arrived in the UK in May and was scheduled to attend various events and Habanos Specialists until her return to Cuba at the end of July. To enjoy them at their peak, they would have to be smoked within a week. I certainly wasn’t about to test that 7 day limit.
Señora Hernandez began her career in the cigar industry 20 years ago and has achieved the highest grade of cigar roller within the Cuban industry. Not only is she well respected, but Señora Hernandez also rolls cigar leaf in a traditional manner known as “entubado bunch” or entubar – a bunching technique which rolls each filler leaf into itself, almost like a small scroll. Each individually “scrolled” leaf is then placed together to form the bunch. This skillful rolling technique creates a more firmly packed cigar which allows air to travel between all of the leaves, carrying more aromatics/flavors to the palate. Entubado rolling is the most difficult and complex bunching method and is therefore rarely employed in large scale manufacturing.
I was now the proud possesor of two of these freshly rolled beauties and I can tell you, by the time the weekend was over, both had died a graceful death.
So from the oldest of whiskies to the freshest of cigars. Some would say it was quite a nice way to start the weekend.
This week, I had a wonderful opportunity to be humbled. It’s not everyone that would welcome this experience, and to be honest I am not known for being a wallflower, sometimes my ego arrives in a room before I do.
But, events came together in which I felt less the man I thought I was. Glenfiddich, who are key sponsors of the charity Walking with the Wounded, organised the worlds highest whisky tatsing. A live feed to Everest base camp to talk through four expressions of the Glenfiddich range.
Walking with the Wounded is a UK based charity which funds both the re-training and re-education of wounded servicemen and women with the aim of helping them find long term employment after they have left the Armed Forces.
So it was a pleasure to be asked to join the panel in the studio at the London Stock Exchange and link up to the team at base camp. Mount Everest, when you start looking at the figures and thinking about its scale, dangers and beauty, really does make you realise how insignificant you are in the world. A feeling that is multiplied when you then learn about these incredible men, who have not only overcome hurdles in their own physique but have then gone on to push the boundaries of human endeavour, even for those more able bodied.
Monty Halls, explorer and tv presenter. Jamie Milne Glenfiddich ambassador and Ed Parker, Simon Daglish founders of the WWTW charity and myself, set about delivering a 45 minute show intersperced with video footage of the project and charity and the actual live link.
Upon arriving at the LSE, the studio was abuzz with energy. We had a sneaky preview of the guys at base camp, just a quick hello to the top of the world, before we sat in the studio and began a sound check and rehearsal. The four of us wanted to keep it relaxed, after all, it was a whisky tasting right? No need to seem scripted and wooden, but nerves conspire to make that a difficult task at the best of times.
As we went live, and sat in the studio watching the video explaining the charity, I couldn’t help but feel rather useless. Here was I , in a warm studio, glass in hand, whilst these brave lads undertook this epic challenge.
We first had a quick chat with the Pioneers, winners of a competition with Glenfiddich to trek to base camp (which takes 10 days!) and discussed the principles of tasting and straight into the Glenfiddich 12 old and the 18yr old.
Unfortunately, the sound link was struggling to cope with distance and height, but we could see from the screen they were certainly enjoying themselves. Then it was over to the Walking with the Wounded team themselves and a tasting of the Glenfiddich 15 and Age of Discovery 19 yr old. It was noticeable that those guys chose not to spit the whisky out, despite the health recommendations, but lets face it, they had recently been given the news that the summit attempt had to be called off due to the dangers on the mountain, I am sure they can be forgiven for not spitting the whisky out.
Despite the poor sound link it was clear that the boys embodied the “one day you will” spirit that inspired the partnership with Glenfiddich and that for all involved being part of the project was just as valuable as reaching the summit. Having met the team a while back I think they have also learned a bit about whisky along the way and it was great to see them all those miles away wrapped up against the elements appreciating a good dram. We wrapped up the broadcast with a few question and answers before we all relaxed properly and shared a dram or two more with the cameras off. But dont think thats the end- there are more exciting projects afoot and you can still donate here.
So, quite often, I find myself thinking about new things to write and more often than not I start something, read it over, decided it’s rubbish and bin it. And of course, I always try to find a new angle to write about, otherwise it bores me. So, during a conversation this morning on twitter with the very talented Katie Antoniou who had posted her list of most admired women after the controversial FHM award to Tulisa Contostavlos for being the hottest woman in the world with which, by the way, neither of us agreed. We swiftly set about putting the wrongs to right. It seems we have quite similar taste in beauty and despite the Megan Foxes of the world and the Giselles, it was pretty straight forward. We think its intelligence and talent that makes “hot”. Just to make it a bit more interesting, I though I would add a whisky to salute the selected few…so here goes in no particular order:
Liv Tyler – A dazzling woman and smart to boot. It would have been easy to start listing connections to The Lord of the Rings or Stealing Beauty but I thought the fact that she is the daughter of legendary rock king Steve Tyler, who no doubt has seen his fair share of bourbon during his career would be better. So, to Liv I raise a glass of Hudson “Baby” bourbon from the small distillery at Tutthilltown, new, exciting and cutting edge it is a perfect accompaniment to Livs otherworldly beauty. A rich and spicy bourbon, first since prohibition to be made in New York. If you need more info, I reviewed it here
Penelope Cruz- Well what can you say about this Spanish firecracker. Never one to keep her Mediteranian passion at bay, this hot and spicy, full on woman surely makes you sit up and take notice. Like a charging bull at a matador, every inch of her is Carne Trémula. So, what to choose? what matches the fire of Penelope? the full on personality and Spanish richness? Well, I choose the Aberlour A’Bunadh.
Full Spanish sherry cask and at cask strength, I reckon it has it all.
Scarlett Johansson- It’s the husky voice, plump lips and classy, sassy attitude that makes Scarlet stand out. You can imagine her out till the small hours, a speakeasy somewhere. Obvious whisky choice was Suntory to follow her Lost in Translation role, but decided to go for something a bit different from the norm, as she definately is. Balvenie 15yr old single cask, , delivering a surprise every time, just like Scarlet.
Kate Winslet -Now, I’ve met Kate, and I can tell you, she can command a room with her looks and personality. A strong woman with a funny, tender side she is quite the complete package. Again, there is an obvious link with the movies, and since its not been too long since the centenary of the Titanic sinking, it simply has to be a glass of single cask, Glenrothes Titanic limited edition. no ice of course!
I recently reviewed this dram and would like to think Kate would find a lot to enjoy in it.
Selma Blair- Associated with a sort of preppy geeky ness in most movies, and shooting to fame with “that kiss” in Cruel Intensions, Selma has only gone and grown up! her last role, in HellBoy II sees her smouldering with sexiness and brimming with confidence. Yet, you still cant help feel that she would be the perfect girl to take home to your parents and get approval. Still an American sweetheart. That’s why I chose the Glenlivet 18 to toast Selma, an all rounder and definitely the whisky which everyone can nod with approval for.
Eva Green- Well HELLO! Here comes trouble. Eva doesn’t smoulder, she is a full on inferno. Careful of those Medusa like eyes for they will turn you to jelly with a single look. Such a chameleon of character, but never quite able to shake off the sense of forbidding and danger, thank goodness! With her goddess like figure and dark sorceress image I can imagine conjuring imagine her sipping a Bowmore Tempest.
Stormy, dark, and mysterious. We salute you Eva.
Maggie Gyllenhaal- Oh Maggie, with those doe eyes and full lips beneath plump cheekbones, you are really spoiling us. It’s the voice also, could lull a tiger to sleep. Yet it’s not all about looks, this girl is razor sharp too, educated, cerebral and non-conformist she was renowned for picking out independent classy films to work in (ok, forget Batman).
So, which dram? Well, got to be independent, little known and as with Maggies surname, tricky to pronounce- BenRiach 18 it is then.
Kelly Brook – Ah Kelly, the English rose. Always smiling, always bubbly and thankfully not ended up part of the stick thin brigade…Kelly has curves like a woman should. She reminds me of a pin-up from the 50′s, when girls didn’t need to get naked to be sexy. OK, so she did playboy,page 3 and topped FHMs hot list, but we can forgive her right?
It also goes without saying that one English rose deserves another so we raise our glass of The English Whisky Chapter 6.
Juliette Lewis – Can you see a pattern forming here? Sultry dark eyed hell raisers? Juliette first caught our attention in Cape Fear, but it is her career since that seems to have suited her style best-Natural Born Killers, Kalifornia for example? plus her rock band Juliette and the Licks isn’t known for love ballads. Could have gone down the bourbon route again, maybe a spicy rye heavy version, but no.
Eva Mendes – really? I mean you really need an explanation! Despite her casting and looks, she was born in Miami to Cuban parents. Safe to say her early acting career wasn’t a trail blazer (mostly B movies) but she has become a household name after roles in Training Day and Once upon a time in Mexico.
So there it is, the Dramatic Whisky list of our top ten women. It’s not complete, and will no doubt change again in a year or two, but at least we now know which bottle to reach for if ever they come round to the DW offices!
Oh, and Sienna, if your reading this, we still love you.
A good friend recently coined this phrase, and it got me thinking about how some people struggle to find the aromas and subtle flavours in whisky that are often discussed at a tasting session. You can see them time and time again sniffing the rim of the glass, mind racing to try to grab some comprehension leading them into a dizzy panic that they are not getting it along with the others in the room.
I am often asked “how do you get that aroma, when I don’t”
It is true, that not all of us are cut out to be tasters. Is it nurtured or nature? Well I believe it is a bit of both really. Everyone has the capacity to taste the glorious combinations present in a dram, or any beverage for that matter – alcoholic or not, it is just some of us have trained ourselves in how to do it better than others.
I smell everything; from fruit just bought from the supermarket, to spices in the kitchen at home. I need to, it’s my job to lock away these sensory answers for future use. Take a bag of sugar for instance even by reading those words, you have probably imagined something in you mind. Was it a kilo bag of Tate and Lyle castor sugar, the ubiquitous accompaniment to a cup of tea, or perhaps you imagined a small pile of White granulated sugar in a bowl. The thing is, when talking about sugars, it can be a multitude of expressions, all with very different aromas and tastes. Caster, unrefined, icing, brown or molasses. Then the next level of state; caramel, toffee, fudge etc. All very different, all very recognisable if they were to be placed side by side and tasted individually one after the other.
The same can be said for so many of the elements within scotch but it takes a little bit of effort to recognise them and draw them out. After all, if everyone could do it easily, I would not have such a busy work life!
At last nights tasting session, I had just such and individual, struggling glass after glass to understand and recognise the make up of the whisky in front of him. And I could see him struggle, see him begin to panic and head towards “Analysis Paralysis”. It would have been easy to have bulldozed on, turning my attention to the rest of the room but I took five minutes to focus on this one guest, explaining how the aromas would get in there in the first place, guiding a little towards the simpler notes, offering suggestions of food stuffs that he knew before asking him to try again. We don’t all go around sniffing dying bonfires, overripe bananas and the like…..but it does help if you do!
Next week, my sensory receptors will be on full attention as I pop back to the home land for a week and visit some distilleries again. Balvenie and Glenfiddich are on the cards and both of these superb distilleries will no doubt offer up another full notebook of ideas, smells and sights to further bolster my wee brain. But of course, the smell of a malting room will not be something I use as a suggestion to any sessions I do soon- that would be unfair. I will keep that for the more professional side of my business.
The dram most people grabbed onto last night was The Glenlivet 18 yr old. A superb and, hopefully for some time to come, a great value whisky for all to enjoy.
For what it’s worth, here are my notes:
Appearance: copper golds and deep amber
Nose: immediately rich and honeyed, deep fruit notes of raisin and sultanas with dried apricot thrown in for good measure. A more delicate sniff reveals marsh mallows (the pink ones) and a dusting of icing sugar. Below that, nutty almonds and marzipan with a malty cake element, those cooked fruits again of cherry and plum feature. Gorgeous warm vanilla and spices of clove, mace and nutmeg surround the oak that never overcomes the overall experience.
“Christmas cake in a glass”
Palate: Beginning with that full feel of a rich, sweet spice dram, it coats and fills the mouth with wondrous abundance before the vanilla and mixed fruits come forward. Interestingly, the letter part, just before the finish, brings up a phosphorous lick that helps put a leash on the sweetness before it becomes overbearing.
Finish: chewy and delightful, lingering elements from all of the above continue to wash in and out, but it’s that drying phosphorous element that intrigues the most.
