Ah the mighty blended whisky. Makes up about 90% of all the whisky consumed in the world today and it is due to it’s global appeal that many of the single malts we know today have survived the ups and downs that effect whisky consumption from time to time. It’s simple economics really, as we find ourselves again in a double dip or is that double-double dip recession, not everyone has the readies at hand to be buying the latest single malt release, or have a selection at home to tap into from time to time. The blend is there, as it always has been, to bring whisky at a price point that most can afford and with as much variation in character within the category, if not more than the single malt, there is something for all. Of course not all are created with entry level price points, some “deluxe” blends compete pound for pound with an 18 year old single malt and some considerably more. But you can at least begin at the less wallet busting examples and happily dram the time away. I’ve got a few favourites that I always have in the cupboard, the every day tipples that hit the spot such as Wemyss, Cutty Sark, Grants and Tweeddale but I might have to make room for yet another – Banknote.
Banknote is a blend from independent bottler A.D. Rattray which, like their Stronachie brand, has been “resurrected” and is doing well in foreign markets. It hasn’t really seen much light in the UK yet but I am sure that will change. The basics of it are that it’s a 5 year old blend with the emphasis on a sherry character made up of a 40%/60% malt/grain mix and released at 43% ABV. I like the fact that they state clearly the age, it might be a brave move but I think the UK consumer is coming to terms with the fact that age is not everything.
Banknote Blended Scotch Whisky
5 years old
43% ABV
RRP £21
Appearance: Deep straw with rose gold
Nose: A tight, sherry heavy nose with jarred apple sauce, high robust grain notes with spikes of peat, driftwood, newly varnished wood and quince jelly. Rich vanilla, almost fudge like with a caramel sauce overtone.
Palate: Oily and rich to the fore bolstered with very soft peat smoke followed closely by prickly sherry influenced spices. Orchard fruits bring a sweetness mid palate before becoming nutty (Brazil) with a light linseed oil.
Finish: Grippy and almost tannic on the finish as the nutty element fades leaving earthy spices and distant peat.
Summary: Certainly a richer style of blend and definitely a healthy amount of youthful grain in there but it all holds together rather well indeed. After the initial sherry hit, it settles to a fruity, gently spicy all rounder which I think will appeal to most.
Don’t be a single malt snob about it.
Tags: 18, 5, A D Rattray, age, America, Banknote, best, blend, Blended, budget, Cutty, dram, easy, expression, favourite, fine, five, global, Grain, Grants, happy, low, malt, market, New, notes, Old, price, range, rare, release, review, Sark, Scotch, Scotland, single, Stronachie, supermarket, taste, tasting, Tweeddale, UK, Wemyss, whiskey, whisky
It was on a typical spring day, the rain in Central London doing it’s best to keep our hopes of summer at bay, that a select few gathered in the basement bar of Central & Co. to taste, for the first time outside the distillery, two whiskies released by the John Distilleries, India. Paul John single malt whisky is produced in Goa and aims to be quite a revelation when coming to the competitive world whisky market. Interestingly, the company have devised a marketing objective which focuses on foreign markets first, to build a brand, then return to India where the domestic market will be eagerly awaiting its arrival. As Pritesh Mody of LFLD Amplified, who is tasked with creating the buzz around the launch into the UK, said “In the 80′s with the boom in city wealth, British people wanted German Cars, French wine and Italian clothes, it’s the same in the Indian market who want the luxurious foreign items rather than home produced.” With India being amongst the largest consumers of whisky in the world, it’s not surprising to find a company aiming for a share.
Pass the erm…whisky?
John Distilleries was established in 1992 and is one of the largest spirit producers in India. Most of the “Indian whisky” produced is actually from molasses rather than grain and is not allowed to be exported as whisky (it is actually rum, blended with a small amount of whisky). However, with many of the brands within their portfolio selling in excess of 1 million cases per month, I doubt John Distilleries are too worried about exports. Paul John single malt is very different.
As master distiller Michael John (no relation) explained, they have used Indian 6-row barley to create the mash for the “Brilliance” and “Edited” releases as well as the previous single cask releases. Double distilled in copper pot still after a 60 hr fermentation period, 20,000 litres at a time before being matured in ex bourbon cask. All very normal then. Michael went further to explain that in 30 degree heat they loose a massive 12% per annum of liquid and alcohol evaporation know as the angels share. Scotland, in contrast, looses on average just 1% and we moan enough about that! With this high heat and rapid maturation, Michael said they will not be able to produce a whisky older than 8 years old (minimum requirement for whisky is 40% abv) but this heat does help increase the flavour development, so there is little need to age anything for that length of time.
Paul John “Brilliance” single malt Indian whisky
Ex bourbon cask
46% abv non chill filtered
Non age statement (was told 4-5yrs)
RRP £38.49
Appearance: Pale rose gold
Nose: Fresh with an immediate coastal familiarity. The youthful nose has structured malt and honey which mingles with a floral overtone all seemingly pinned down by a cork-wood wrapped in banana leaf with a light drizzling of vanilla infused caramel.
Palate: At first quite creamy then quickly develops some good spice of mace and nutmeg mixed in with the honey found in the aroma. There is a tropical fruitiness mid palate which never becomes too prominent, instead being overruled by well structured vanilla and oak.
Finish: Lots of delicious vanilla and a final hint of sea salt caramels.
Paul John “Edited” peated single malt Indian whisky
46% ABV non chill filtered
Ex Bourbon cask
Non age statement (4-5years old)
RRP £42.49
Appearance: Warm rose gold
Nose: For a peated whisky, this is very light indeed. Soft distant peat smoke wrap around the nose of malted barley, pebble beach, quince, cedar and apple blossom. There is a general sweetness with spice turning to liquorice chews all wonderfully enveloped in the smoke from a dying beach bonfire.
Palate: The peat smoke shows itself far more now, but still restrained with a honey type sweetness behind it. Ash and cinnamon emerge in equal amounts which in turn create a salted nut element before returning to the smoke rich palate which we began with.
Finish: Lingering peat smoke with light ash and a sea salt edge.
Summary: If either of these superb examples were placed in front of me at a blind tasting, I would struggle (as I am sure many of my friends in the industry would) to know their origin let alone age. Both are superb examples of well crafted whisky, released with optimum flavour and character. The 46% abv allows you to release a little more softness but I prefer to keep them undiluted. I am sure both of these will be not just a talking point, but an active part in most whisky drinkers cabinets in the not too distant future.
I can see it’s going to be an Indian summer.
Tags: 4, 5, American, Amplified, barley, barrel, beach, best, blind, bourbon, brilliance, central, chill, climate, coast, distillery, dramatic, edited, filtered, Goa, hot, indian, John, light, limited, malt, mature, Mody, New, non, note, oak, paul, peat, Peated, Pritesh, rapid, release, rested, review, sample, Scotch, single, smoke, still, taste, temeperature, traditional, whiskey, whisky, world, Years
How many times have you been in a situation, with a group of friends normally in the pub but certainly with alcohol involved to a grater or lesser degree, and the topic of conversation turns to one of invention, or to put it simply “why didn’t I think of that”. It’s a common happening for sure but I suppose the outcome and idea all depends on who you have gathered around you at the time. Trouble is, most good ideas and solutions to life’s little issues remain firmly where they were born – n the pub, never reaching beyond the embryonic state, most never making it even past the next round.
But the Swedes do think a little differently don’t they. Dynamite, the adjustable spanner and the three-point seat belt are just three wonderful additions to our world thanks to forward thinking Swedes. And of course Mackmyra Single Malt Whisky.
Founded in 1998 by the eight friends who had asked that fateful question “why is there not a Swedish whisky?”, the distillery produced it first drops of new make on 18th December 1998 with the first official releases of Mackmyra Elegant and Mackmyra Smoke coming to the market in 2002. Fast forward 6 years and the first Swedish whisky is `produced in large volumes .The “First Edition” is produced using Swedish ingredients and no additives.
The latest edition to join the ever popular range is Mackmyra The Swedish Whisky “Brukswhisky” where the website has the following information on it: Mackmyra The Swedish Whisky is made from our soft elegant recipe matured in bourbon casks. We then spiced it up with a special combination of large and small casks: rich sherry and a touch of our fresh Swedish oak. For a light hint of juniper smoke, we added some of our smoky variety. Sounds fun right? well, lets give it a go.
Mackmyra The Swedish Whisky Single Malt
No Age statement
Ex Bourbon/Sherry cask with Swedish oak
ABV: 41.4 %
RRP £36.00
Appearance: Pale young straw
Nose: Light vanilla with young malt and newly painted wood. Fruity notes of lemon curd and grapefruit peel and slices of fresh quince are muted behind a muslin cloth. In the background, a curious note, not unlike a cold caramel latte and that fresh painted wood has become more polished now.
Palate: A balance of light woody vanilla and lively citrus grip before turning richer than expected with warming spices of clove, mace and white pepper. Rounded sweet fruit elements help bring the two characters neatly together.
Finish: Lingering cinnamon dusted pear with a malty custard cream on the side. That slight coffee not pops up at the very end again.
Summary: LIght on the nose, this whisky certainly delivers more on the palate, dancing around in quite an unexpected way. If you have yet to try a Mackmyra whisky, then this is certainly a good one to begin with. And remeber, when you do raise a glass, ask yourself “Why didn’t I think of that”
Tags: 09, age, alcohol, barley, best, Cask, cave, chill, cold, colour, dran, european, filtered, friends, Glass, good, handy, limited, live, Mackmyra, malt, matured, New, non, notes, oak, region, release, sample, scoltand, Scotland, Scottish, show, single, special, started, strength, swede, sweedish, tasted, tasting, vintage, warm, whiskey, whisky, wine
Last night I was privileged to be part of a very select group that had gathered to witness the launch in the UK market of Grant’s 25 year old blended whisky. The venue was the wine and spirits shop in Selfridges department store London. The store are to have the whisky exclusively until the end of the year.
Brand Ambassador Ludo Ducrocq, a Frenchman with a great passion for whisky and a curious Scottish accent, told us how William Grant began creating his own blend of whisky back in 1887, Christmas day in fact and in 1909 his son-in-law Charles Gordon spent 12 month travelling the world ensuring Grant’s whisky would be a recognised brand in over 30 countries by 1914. no mean feet of logistics in itself at the time. Today, over 54 million cases of Grant’s whisky is sold in over 180 countries and what is equally amazing is that the company is in the hands of the 5th generation of Grant’s family.
In 2009, the 25 year old blend was launched in travel retail to commemorate 100 years since Charles Gordon set out on hie epic sales journey. Brian Kinsman, Master Distiller at William Grant & Sons drew whiskies for 25 selected cask all of which were over 25 years old. In fact, Ludo informed us that Grant’s had only ever blended single malt until 1963, when the Girvan grain distillery was built, with some of the first spirit to run from those stills used in Batch No.1 of which we were about to sample. Batch 2 is currently under production. The unusual thing with blends of this age is that less grain whisky needs to be used as the single malts mellow with time, so does the grain and in Batch 1 there is actually a higher proportion of single malts than grain, eighteen malts to seven grains to be precise.
Now, knowing that there are rare whiskies in a blend is one thing, but picking them out whilst sipping the whisky is a touch harder. Ludo had made life a bit easier for us and had arranged all 25 individual parts of the blend for us to nose and try. This was quite an incredible experience as we moved from one glass to the next, understanding the building blocks, each chosen by Brian for their unique characteristics to carefully construct this fine whisky. The grain, which was approaching 45 years old and had no sign of giving up! Billy Abbot, a fellow whisky reviewer and I were in our own little bit of geek heaven, especially when we found the Clynelish that we both tagged as have been part of the blend. We couldn’t however identify the Ladyburn which was there, a distillery which closed in 1975 and who’s whiskies are extremely rare and sought after but thats probably because I havent actually tried enough Ladyburn to recognise it so easily, and it’s doubtful I ever will. These dearly departed distilleries have left behind only tiny remainders of the gold that once flowed from them. Sadly most remain in the hands of collectors firmly sealed, never to be drunk again.
So, onto the review itself-
Grant’s 25 year old Blended Scotch Whisky
43% abv
Ex-Bourbon/Ex-Sherry Cask
RRP £200 (although Selfridges sell it at a whopping £320!)
Appearance: Burnt Ochre / dark honey
Nose: Vanilla fudge, manuka honey, ripe banana and fruity scented wax candle are first to come alive with deeper notes of toffee sauce, new-buck leather and candied orange peel behind. There is good spice, but it is light such as white pepper and a dusting of cinnamon with a hint of burnt Dundee cake.
Palate: Lightly spicy with creamy toffee sauce again before orange blossom honey and tropical fruit flow in mid palate. Hints of balsa wood and cinnamon with a slightly nutty edge of macadamia. The palate falls a touch short in comparison to the nose.
Finish: LIghtly drying with pepper grip and smooth earthy elements. Lingering tropical fruit.
Summary: Its only when you see the individual elements of a blend as we did this evening that you understand the complex operation that the blenders such as Brian undertake. Some of the samples we tried were not at all something you would enjoy in its own right, yet you can see how certain elements have aided in the construction of the final whisky. Grant’s 25 is an enjoyable and smooth whisky with plenty to sit back and enjoy and certainly makes a welcome addition to the premium blend market and the Grant’s portfolio.
You can read more about Ludo and Grant’s Whisky on his blog.
Tags: 25, Abbot, American, Balvenie, Batch, best, Billy, blend, Blended, Brian, Cask, Clynelish, department, distillery, dram, Ducrocq, european, exclusive, flavour, french, Girvan, glnfiddich, Grain, grant, Grants, Kinsman, Ladyburn, Ludo, malt, notes, Old, premium, quality, retail, review, Scotch, Scotland, Scottish, Selfridges, Sherry, shop, single, son, spirit, store, tasting, travel, whiskey, whisky, william, year
I was first introduced to Stuart Nickerson and Ronnie Routledge from Glenglassaugh back in 2008 whilst working at CLASS magazine and learned about how this old distillery, mothballed in 1986, had been brought back to glory by a new team of investors. With the first new spirit in 22 years flowing from the stills in December 2008, the team had a little bit of an issue which they dealt with in a rather unique way. “The spirit that blushes to say its name” was not quite what people expected to be amongst the first releases, but it did help with the growth of the distillery’s name in the market.
Although the distillery had closed, its warehouses had remained in operation for some time after, using the maturing whisky for sale to blenders as was the case with most distilleries of the day, but this caused a slight problem for the new team at Glenglassaugh. It would be a foolish move to bottle this rather old stock and release it- not only because most people had forgotten who Glenglassaugh were but because this old stock would have to be released at such a premium price it would do little to encourage fans and stock would be limited. The incredible part about Glenglassaugh was that its original operating plant such as the mash tun, wash backs and most important of all, the stills, were still in fine shape which meant the team could get straight down to production and get a revived Glenglassaugh to the market. “The Spirit that blushed to same its name” was released to a few curious looks, a new make spirit matured for a very short time in ex-red wine cask (Californian Zinfadel if my memory serves me right). A clever move actual, drawing revenue into a fledgling business and certainly making people take notice. It was actual very nice indeed and a welcome change at a whisky show. I never did like that long winded name so I was pleased to see it shortened to “Blushes” a few years later. in fact, it was such a success that to this day the company continues to release a range of spirit drinks of different style.
Fast forward a few years and we see the distillery picking up award after award in many spirit competitions, sales in over 20 countries around the globe. Older releases from the original stock were released to much acclaim and the portfolio grew with more new spirit releases as well as younger stock.
At the whisky show in London recently, the guys were proud to show off the latest release- “Evolution” which is only the second single malt whisky to be released , the first being “Revival“. Evolution is a limited release of 6,000 units which has been matured in ex-bourbon casks from the Tennessee distillery George Dickle.
Glenglassaugh Evolution
3 years old
First fill Ex-Bourbon cask
ABV 57.2% abv
Non chill filtered
Release date: November 1st 2012
RRP: £50
Appearance: Light honey gold with pale straw
Nose: Light orchard fruits of russet apple skin and fresh pear. Rich malt note followed by vanilla and oak sap. Butterscotch just manages to raise its head in the lively and youthful nose.
Palate: Rich vanilla and buttery oak with soft cinnamon spice. Banana fritter (thats another Scottish delight) with baked apple and sugared almonds on the mid palate.
Finish: Lingering malty grip with vanilla fudge and light woody spice.
Summary: Don’t be fooled into thinking that because of its youth, this whisky wont deliver. Far from it and I applaud Glanglassaugh for not only making the brave move of taking on a distillery after so many years of closure, but the fact that they have forged ahead with releases those hardened (geeky) whisky fans would turn their noses up at. Quality begins from the very first step and whilst I appreciate that age will develop a more refined character in a spirit, you can always tell, even when young, that it has been carefully crafted and will continue to deliver over time. I cant wait to see what comes out of this distillery next!
Tags: 3 years, aged, American, barley, barrel, best, bottle, bottled, bourbon, build, Californian, Cask, challenge, clever, closed, distillery, evolution, expensive, first, Glenglassaugh, hand, held, light, limited, make, malt, marketing, New, oak, Old, premium, rare, red, release, reopened, review, reviewed, reviews, revival, risk, Scotch, single, spare, spirit, Stock, Tennessee, vintage, warehouse, whiskey, whisky, wine, young
Take a glance around a supermarket spirit shelf in any good sized town and you will be faced with quite a selection of whisky including offerings from outside the UK. In fact, as Gin, tequila and other spirits have seen a massive rise in popularity and therfore shelf space which has fortunately been driven by the 
consumers “thirst for knowledge” we see a general increase across the categories. Go back just fifteen years and your choice of gin would be perhaps three in total with 100% agave tequila almost unheard of in anything other than top London destinations. Today you can buy some of the best tequila and boutique gins from distillers such as Sipsmith and Chase from your local supermarket whilst stocking up on dragon fruit and edemame. Consumers are understanding these categories more and seeking out the more unusual offerings, but only after careful research gleaned from every available source. Consumers have all the information they require to hand from the enthusiastic bloggers post reviewing the latest releases, lifestyle magazines that scratch the surface a little deeper to tell the reader not only what to drink- but where and how to order (and what to ware whilst ordering!) to experience events such as the hugely popular GandTeatime and Dont-shoot-tequila which offers educational tasting events across the categories all across the UK (just like us at Dramatic Whisky). Yet there is still a need for an element of trust when a bartender or shop assistant is recommending a product which is only gained if the right knowledge is shown.
Whisky has always help a fair proportion of the shelf space- mostly due to the range of blended whisky that has always been available, but the current success of more premium spirits has undoubtedly lent a helping hand for whisky and in particular single malt. Blends have always outshone single malt, contributing to about 90% of all global whisky consumed, and not only the standards blends but as we see premium blends such as Black Grouse and Johnnie Walker Gold Reserve start to jump over the sales targets set- although some premium blends are beginning to tag themselves with prices around that of a 10 or 15 year old single malt, the choice for the consumer is at an all time high. There is without doubt, an opportunity to up-sell in a recession stuck country such as our- people may be going out less and certainly watching what they are spending their money on, but when they do venture out its value for money and an experience they seek no matter what their status or budget, And as staying at home becomes more common place, people are choosing more premium products to recreate a “better than normal” experience at home. Unfortunately, far too often the UK hospitality sector and the high street retailer are seriously lacking the skills to deliver the right service or information, failing to capitalise altogether.
A few years back, when I managed The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych, London hit a tough time for tourism as 9/11 was a recent happening. Most of the five start establishments had slashed room prices as occupancy dropped to an all time low with some of the grandest of London’s establishments only reaching 20%. One Aldwych stuck to her guns, kept rates as standard but didn’t lay off a single member of staff. I witnessed this risky approach in action one evening as the then time C.E.O. of a certain orange budget airline, who was a regular, asked the owner directly why he was paying the rate he was when he could pop over the road to another five star and stay there for a third of the price. My boss’s response will stick with we forever- “Would you like me to arrange for our luggage porter to take your bags over because they have had to let theirs go”. Basically, if you can still offer value for money and deliver the perfect guest experience every time, you can maintain your price when all around you are loosing theirs.
Emerging markets outside the UK such as India, Russia and China have certainly helped boost the numbers in terms of whisky exports and sales over the last coupe of years and no doubt will continue to do so for some time, but surely we need to support the foundations in the UK to ensue we are not left behind- and here is where the problem lies.
To most people, a bottle of single malt is a pricey investment when buying at the supermarket as many still choose by age and with age, rightly so in many cases, comes a hefty price-tag. The consumer is left with a bewildering choice with little guidance other than the marketing departments best attempt to stand out from the crowd with a well crafted introduction to the whisky on the label- few though, actually tell the customer what the whisky actually tastes like. I’ve tried to ask members of staff for help, and even in large high street retailers, unfortunately the response is rather laughable.
Pubs in the UK don’t fare much better in my view. Most stock whisky, a blend at least, or have a carefully selected range which unfortunately is selected for them by the brand manager and therefore the bar staff think the job is done. They don’t need to actually learn about the range, it has “something to cover all palates” as the rep told them. Now of course this is not always the case- there are venues out there who do take care and consideration over the stock they invest in and support the choices with good staff training ensuring they can sell through the range and keep customer satisfaction at a peak. After all, with whisky on such a rise, there is great profits to be made on a large dram of liquid gold.
But the above is a minority, too few and far between a dram to bother seeking out. Even in my home country of Scotland I am shocked to find such a lack of knowledge and enthusiasm for our national drink which you would think would be the first place to start. Yet sadly, it is venues such as these, which are filled on a daily basis with customers who are interested in trying something different, moving up from a blend to a premium blend or a single malt, who would gladly spend that little bit extra if only the bar staff had the training and knowledge to deliver trust to the customer that they knew what they were offering and could recommend well.
In reality the local pub actually has it quite easy as they should know the clients well and therefore have the opportunity to sell a single measure of a new whisky, allowing them to try something without investing in an entire bottle from the supermarket. So why does this not happen more often? It seems to me that venue owners are as much to blame being fearful to invest in whisky. Yet the numbers are clear, whisky is on the rise. From the entry level blend through its premium big brother on onto the guidy heights of superstar single malt. You don’t have to be brave to bath in its glory- just clever and understand that with a little investment in training staff or even further – inviting the customer to partake in tasting events such as Dramatic Whisky, then whisky sales across the bar will increase. What I fear is that venue owners, upon hearing the good news about the growth in the category will simply grab an extra couple of “on offer” brands when next at the wholesaler and hope they chose well enough. Its not as if the tools are not out there on offer either. Every whisky brand manager will happily spend an afternoon at your venue training staff on the virtues of their brand. Or you can bring us in.
Try my little technique to work out if a bar knows its whisky- scan the back bar of whisky, find something you know well then think of an alternative but similar brand. Tell the bartender you want a whisky and normally drink the brand you are thinking of, then ask for a recommendation of something similar. Hopefully the bartender will offer you the brand you picked out but trust me on this- it works maybe 2-3 times out of 10. In fact, I have said at times I normally drink Glenlivet 12 in the hope they will offer me the Glenfiddich 12 but I have in the past been offered Laphroaig as a substitute because “Its really popular”. Eh, HELLO? Great news for the brand manager of Laphroaig, but I’m one unhappy customer if I don’t like Islay whisky and I’m afraid that all important confidence i was hoping to attain as a customer has just left the building.
Recently I was asked to consult at the bar for a two michelin star restaurant- a very well respected establishment with a great reputation. Apparently the whisky shelf was a little tired and they had asked that I come in to help revive things a little. I visited the venue and yes, it was clear not much love had been placed there with Jack Daniel’s the only American choice on offer and the usual suspects making up the numbers. However, being a French restaurant the Armagnac and Cognac range was outstanding but on closer inspection it turned out that they didn’t actually sell much of any of it. My plane was set out in three parts:
Train the staff on the current stock of whisky- highlighting “duplicate” styles and training them on how to push the up sell to these to clear the shelf of them.
Introduce replacement stock, again with another training session to ensue the staff had the correct tools to not only continue to sell the existing range but also the new additions
Return to the venue in 3 months for a refresher training course and to analyse how the sales have been.
Two page proposal, all aimed towards increasing whisky sales and maintaining a healthy GP, fee set low as it would be a fun project with a great bit of kudos attached. Result was a “Thanks but no thanks, we will leave it as it is”. I checked the proposal again and I hadn’t put too much in there for them to carry the project through themselves, the fee was below market value considering the gains from the end result and yet no, even a restaurant with a per head spend in excess of £100 could not see the value in whisky.
What ever happen to the “Auld Alliance“? Somethings will never change.
Tags: 9/11, Aldwych, Alliance, Armagnac, Auld, back, bad, Bar, bartender, best, Black, blend, Blended, blue, bourbon, Box, Cask, China, cognac, Daniels, diageo, distillery, dram, dramatic, easyjet, educate, education, France, french, gain, Gin, Glenfiddich, Glenlivet, gold, GP, Grouse, hospitality, India, islay, Jack, Johnnie, label, Laphroaig, learn, lifestyle, Lobby, London, magazine, malt, maxxium, Michelin, One, premium, pub, rant, Reserve, respond, restaurant, revenue, Russia, sales, Savoy, school, Scotland, shoot, single, Sipsmith, staff, star, supermarket, superstar, Tea, teach, tequila, training, venue, waitrose, Walker, whiskey, whisky, world
Recently The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show took place at Vinopolis and as usual, many fine drams were on display. If you have never been, The Whisky Show is Britain’s, if not the worlds, best event on the whisky calendar and gives consumers and the trade the opportunity to meet with some of the big stars and fledgling drams as well as try food matching and whisky cocktails.
As an exhibitor, one of the “rules” is that you have to have on offer a bottle of whisky known as a “Dream Dram” which guests can try in exchange for tokens that are given as part of the ticket price. Some dream drams will see you part with quite a few of your tokens so choosing the right one is key.
There were some stunning examples available-but one for me stood out for more than a few reasons- The Balvenie Dream Dram. There is no actual official name for the whisky as it had been created just for the show but it had “Liberated Casks” penned on the side and it followed a similar make up to the famed Balvenie tun 1401 which I reviewed here recently.
Made from 6 selected casks, what I particularly liked about it was the use of more ex-bourbon cask rather than sherry butt.
The casks were a staggering collection of numbers indeed with the youngest over 37 years old!
Two 1975 ex bourbon cask
1974 Hogshead
1972 Hogshead
1970 ex-sherry butt
1963 ex sherry butt……
wait, lets just tally that up- 1963, that’s a 49 year old! The combined age of the whisky in this bottle was in fact 243 years old. Opportunity like this does not come along very often and it was a pleasure to taste.
The Balvenie “Liberated Cask” Whisky Show special.
ABV unknown
Appearance: Golden syrup with rose gold.
Nose: Buttered sweetcorn , almond paste, orange oil, toasted vanilla, creamy malt, light orange blossom honey, well fired morning rolls. There is very light spice of mace with peanut shells and marzipan.
Palate- More pronounced earthy spice with warm candied orange peel and honey. Bountiful drying fruit, toasted wood and light dusting of cinnamon compliment the nose.
Finish: Lingering and very complex. The lightest of sherry cask spice holding on to the end with hints of coffee through honey.
Summary: Possibly the outstanding whisky for me at he show and bang on in terms of style for my palate. The tun 1401 is a little heavier on the sherry weight which I think is too much of a departure from the classic style of Balvenie- where as this is a bulls-eye with the volume turned up.
Tags: 1401, 1974, 2012, 45, 50, 55, 60, American, Balvenie, barrel, best, biggest, bourbon, butt, casks, chips, dram, dream, exceptional, exchange, exhibithion, find, found, gold, hard, hogshead, liberated, liquid, London, malt, notes, october, Old, oldest, poker, rare, review, Scotch, Scotland, Sherry, show, single, special, tasting, token, tun, vinopolis, whiskey, whisky
Those lovely chaps (and lasses) at Wemyss Malts are at it again with the second release of those splendid single cask whiskies. This time a selection which tempts the autumnal tastebuds with titles such as “Beach Bonfires” and “White chocolate torte” perfect timing as we see the last of the suns warm rays give way to chilly blue skies and crisp leaves underfoot. Get the fire on, grab a good book and settle in to these three delightful drams.
“Autumn Berries” – 26 yr old Blair Athol distillery.
Distilled: 1986 46% abv
268 bottles Ex Hogshead
Appearance: Palest straw with white gold
Nose: Apple blossom, chesnuts and conference pears. Buttery vanilla helps balance the bright fruits with a slightly waxy undertone.
Palate: Warm apple and pears drizzled with the lightest maple syrup and earthy spice.
Finish: Roast chestnuts and mocha coffee make up the drying finish.
Summary: Wonderfully complex and intriguing dram. Well balanced and integrated with dry fruit and rounded buttery vanilla.
“Sugared Almonds” – 30 yr old. Aultmore distillery.
Distilled : 1982 46% abv
272 bottles Ex Hoghead
Appearance: Light honey with rose gold
Nose: As the name suggests- sugared almonds is right in there. Hints of artists oil paint and linseed oil, red apple skin, marshmallows and white chocolate raisins.
Palate: Rich malt, roasted chestnut, liquorice root and brandy butter all combine with red berry, cracked peppercorn, yellow capsicum and hint of spearmint woven through cool autumnal smoke.
Finish: Wonderfully rich with drying roasted notes and lightly spiced, the lingering palate keeps delivering.
Summary: Took a while for me to actually get the words out for this- its such a fabulous whisky. Oodles of character, plenty to say for itself but quietly sophisticated with it. I’ve fallen for this one BIG time.
“Lemon Smoke” – 16 yr old. Caol Ila distillery.
Distilled: 1996 46% abv
380 Bottles Ex Hogshead
Appearance: Pale ochre with hints of hay.
Nose: Light carbolic note with samphire, stewed rhubarb and gooseberry fool all wrapped up in dying embers from a seaside campfire. Gentle vanilla creeps through supported by fresh pine sap. Black pepper on strawberries right at the end.
Palate: Calmly assertive with a creamy, buttery beginning, quickly becoming laced with wood oven smoke and a brine edge to control things. Well integrated all round with a perfect balance of sweet fruit, salt and smoke.
Finish: Delightfully lingering edge of salty smoke and nutty wood.
Summary: Another superb example of a well balanced Islay, not overly phenolic and with plenty of other elements going on to keep you coming back for more. Would make the perfect introduction to the first timer for a smokey dram- if they could get their hands on a bottle in time!
Overall, in my eyes these guys can do no wrong (ok, maybe not perfect) as each release is timed to perfection and showcases the very essence of the distilleries they were born from of course, it does help when you have the guru that is Charlie Maclean putting his tuppence worth into the selection as we saw earlier this year with the first single cask releases. Estimated to retail between the very reasonable price of £75-£105, I doubt we will see these last very long.
Put me down for the Aultmore please 
Tags: American, Athol, Aultmore, autumn, best, Blair, Bonfire, bottle, bottled, Cask, Charles, chill, chilled, chocolates, chrlies, Coal, cosy, dram, filtered, fireside, guru, Highland, hogshead, isla, islay, limited, lowland, Maclean, malt, malted, non, oak, peat, Peated, rare, regions, release, review, Scotch, Scotland, single, slippers, smokey, welcome, Wemyss, whiskey, whisky, Winter, world
Ahead of what will no doubt be a very busy week after The Whisky Exchange annual Whisky Show, I thought it best to try to review a few samples that have been sent to me before the pile on my desk becomes either out of date or a task too great for a mere man to tackle. Its been quite an active time of late with a number of brands releasing new expressions and talk of a few more in the near future. All great news for the industry as clearly there is a growing demand and with it a growing audience.
The first new release for review is from Balblair, one of my top rated malts and I recently reviewed a number of fabulous examples from the distillery here. This Travel Retail (duty free to those not in the trade) exclusive, which will replace the current 1995 release, comes in 1 litre bottles and will be available next month after its official launch at Tax Free World Association exhibition in Cannes (October 21-26).
As with all the Balblair range, the ’96 comes without chill filtration and at an ABV of 46% which helps maintain the depth of character, adding complexity to the spirit on both the nose and palate. The 1996 vintage was bottled in 2012 after spending its 16 years of maturation in ex-bourbon cask only.
Balblair Single Malt Whisky (Travel Retail exclusive) Vintage 1996
Non-chill filtered & Natural colouring 46% abv
Ex-Bourbon cask
£49.99 1 litre
Appearance: Pale straw with warm gold
Nose: Light honey with fresh butter undertones, coconut flesh surrounded by fresh summer red fruits, pear and candied lemon peel. A light dusting of nutmeg traces delicately through it all which offers a grounded note to the otherwise zesty fruit.
Palate: Immediately creamy and full in the mouth, bursting with richness and bright spices. Cinnamon takes over the nutmeg now but wave after wave of rich vanilla, orange blossom honey on buttered crumpets with calvados drizzled tarte tatin.
Finish: The spice lingers, but a cleansing citrus note, not too powerful, helps maintain the balance.
In summary, a splendid dram which showcases the maturation of the distillery’s typical releases to perfection. Underneath the rich aromas are all the classic signs of a well produced Balblair spirit and without any tampering, the 1996 will undoubtedly be a hit with frequent travellers. Now where is my passport?
Tags: 16, 1995, 1996, ABV, alcohol, Balblair, best, blog, bourbon, Cannes, Cask, character, chill, complex, Distillers, distillery, dram, dramatic, duty, exchange, filtered, free, Highland, house, inver, malt, non, Old, rated, release, retail, review, Scotch, Scottish, show, single, taste, tasting, top, travel, vanilla, vintage, whiskey, whisky, Years
A new arrival through my door this week was a bottle of Speyburn “Brandan Orach” (Golden Salmon for those not familiar with the Gaelic tongue). I’m often confused by the choice of name for whisky, and this one joins those ranks- Golden Salmon? Is it to be considered as an indicator of the whisky’s quality or taste as surely this is what the drinker is looking for? Will this bottle burst forth with fishy freshness or perhaps a whiff of fisherman’s friend?
Charbonnel’s amazing Banoffee Truffles.
Either way, It was destined to be used at a forthcoming tasting I was holding and would be paired with a selected Charbonnel et Walker chocolate. But which one was the question now posed. Stopping off at the Liverpool Street branch of this rather fine chocolatier, I obviously had to let the staff try a little before helping me select the right accompaniment and they seems to have little hesitation. With the main character of the whisky seemingly light and fruity we played around with some citrus lead chocolates before finally, as the caramel notes became apparent, I pointed at the Banoffee truffle chocolate saying “let’s try this one!”
Surprisingly, or perhaps not, it was an amazing combination. The bursting freshness of the whisky tamed somewhat by the sweet, buttery chocolate but at the same time the banana element of the truffle amplified the caramel and tropical fruit note that wasn’t immediately apparent upon first tasting the whisky on its own.
Safe to say, the gathered 25 guests were more than happy to be guinea-pigs at the tasting an hour later and all agreed that the combination was surprising and a perfect partnership.
Speyburn Bradan Orach
Single malt whisky
No age statement
40% Alcohol
Appearance: Clear bright yellow gold.
Nose: rich note of malt new make and warm caramel, a high spirited start softened by toffee apple and lighter notes of unripe banana served on an oak stave.
Palate: Lively to begin with grippy tannic spice and assertive spirit before the slightly buttery apple and caramel strudel with banana parfait pops in.
Finish: Light and lively turns smooth and creamy with lingering buttery vanilla and toffee.
It’s not often I think about chilling whisky, but I reckon I might give this one a try. Popping it in the fridge for a few hours and getting it nice and cold might just be the perfect accompaniment to a summers day picnic in the park. With some banana loaf on the side of course – hey wait, maybe thats whats meant by the “golden salmon”? If you fancy trying some for yourself then you can buy it here.
Tags: appearance, apple, banana, banoffee, best, Bradan, Charbonnel, chill, chilled, chocolate, chocolates, cold, dessert, dram, dramatic, famous, food, fridge, golden, host, ice, loaf, luxury, malt, match, matching, nose, Orach, pair, pairing, palate, parfait, party, perfect, picnic, pie, salmon, Scotch, Scotland, Scottish, single, Speyburn, Speyside, strudel, summer, Walker, water, whiskey, whisky
