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Paul John Single Malt Indian Whisky- “Goan” great

It was on a typical spring day, the rain in Central London doing it’s best to keep our hopes of summer at bay, that a select few gathered in the basement bar of Central & Co. to taste, for the first time outside the distillery, two whiskies released by the John Distilleries, India. Paul John single malt whisky is produced in Goa and aims to be quite a revelation when coming to the competitive world whisky market. Interestingly, the company have devised a marketing objective which focuses on foreign markets first, to build a brand, then return to India where the domestic market will be eagerly awaiting its arrival. As Pritesh Mody of LFLD Amplified, who is tasked with creating the buzz around the launch into the UK, said “In the 80′s with the boom in city wealth, British people wanted German Cars, French wine and Italian clothes, it’s the same in the Indian market who want the luxurious foreign items rather than home produced.” With India being amongst the largest consumers of whisky in the world, it’s not surprising to find a company aiming for a share.

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Pass the erm…whisky?

John Distilleries was established in 1992 and is one of the largest spirit producers in India. Most of the “Indian whisky” produced is actually from molasses rather than grain and is not allowed to be exported as whisky (it is actually rum, blended with a small amount of whisky). However, with many of the brands within their portfolio selling in excess of 1 million cases per month, I doubt John Distilleries are too worried about exports. Paul John single malt is very different.

As master distiller Michael John (no relation) explained, they have used Indian 6-row barley to create the mash for the “Brilliance” and “Edited” releases as well as the previous single cask releases. Double distilled in copper pot still after a 60 hr fermentation period, 20,000 litres at a time before being matured in ex bourbon cask. All very normal then. Michael went further to explain that in 30 degree heat they loose a massive 12% per annum of liquid and alcohol evaporation know as the angels share. Scotland, in contrast, looses on average just 1% and we moan enough about that! With this high heat and rapid maturation, Michael said they will not be able to produce a whisky older than 8 years old (minimum requirement for whisky is 40% abv) but this heat does help increase the flavour development, so there is little need to age anything for that length of time.

Paul John “Brilliance” single malt Indian whisky

Ex bourbon cask

46% abv non chill filtered

Non age statement (was told 4-5yrs)Brilliance

RRP £38.49

Appearance: Pale rose gold

Nose: Fresh with an immediate coastal familiarity. The youthful nose has structured malt and honey which mingles with a floral overtone all seemingly pinned down by a cork-wood wrapped in banana leaf with a light drizzling of vanilla infused caramel.

Palate: At first quite creamy then quickly develops some good spice of mace and nutmeg mixed in with the honey found in the aroma. There is a tropical fruitiness mid palate which never becomes too prominent, instead being overruled by well structured vanilla and oak.

Finish: Lots of delicious vanilla and a final hint of sea salt caramels.

Paul John “Edited” peated single malt Indian whisky

46% ABV non chill filtered

Ex Bourbon cask

Non age statement (4-5years old)EDITED

RRP £42.49

Appearance: Warm rose gold

Nose: For a peated whisky, this is very light indeed. Soft distant peat smoke wrap around the nose of malted barley, pebble beach, quince, cedar and apple blossom. There is a general sweetness with spice turning to liquorice chews all wonderfully enveloped in the smoke from a dying beach bonfire.

Palate: The peat smoke shows itself far more now, but still restrained with a honey type sweetness behind it. Ash and cinnamon emerge in equal amounts which in turn create a salted nut element before returning to the smoke rich palate which we began with.

Finish: Lingering peat smoke with light ash and a sea salt edge.

Summary: If either of these superb examples were placed in front of me at a blind tasting, I would struggle (as I am sure many of my friends in the industry would) to know their origin let alone age. Both are superb examples of well crafted whisky, released with optimum flavour and character. The 46% abv allows you to release a little more softness but I prefer to keep them undiluted. I am sure both of these will be not just a talking point, but an active part in most whisky drinkers cabinets in the not too distant future.

I can see it’s going to be an Indian summer.

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Dating by numbers- The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Whisky has always been a drink that brings people together, of that there is no doubt, and especially a drink to inspire conversation. We often imagine people gathered round a fire at the end of an evening, “chewing the fat” after a meal, recounting tales and anecdotes amongst friends. But what of more romantic encounters? As whisky becomes young again and catches the imagination of a whole new demographic, it seems to be found in more unusual circumstances.

Last week, I travelled to Edinburgh to host some tastings in the city – it certainly seemed strange flying back over the border with a suitcase full of whisky, but it gave me the chance to catch up with old friends and of course make new ones along the way. I met the boyfriend of a friend who was recalling (over a whisky) how they met. They were in fact both members of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, although they had actually met in the pub, they chose their first “date” to be at the society’s venue in Leith called The Vaults. Now, for those who do not know how the society operates, let me explain.

The SMWS purchase single casks from distilleries all over Scotland (and further afield) to bottle non-chill filtered and at cask strength in limited run to members. The bottles are not overly expensive and the society rooms in Edinburgh, of which there are two- the Vaults and Queens street, as well as in Farringdon in London, allow members to bring in up to three guests, enjoy a lunch perhaps or simply kick back with the papers in the relaxed surroundings and partake in a dram or two. There are also great meeting rooms to use and always something going on arranged by the society. I like it because it’s not stuffy, the bar staff are young and knowledgeable and for those of you who don’t like whisky (eh?) there is a fine wine list and fab beer selection too.

First timers may be a little confused as on glancing at the back bar it seems they only have one whisky on offer? But upon closer inspection, the society’s best asset comes into play. Every bottle is the same shape, green glass, tall with a slimmed waist and handsomely broad shoulders. The white label across the front has only a set of numbers, 17.23 for example, the first being the distillery the bottling came from and the second refers to the number of the cask the society has procured.   Below this, is the title of the whisky, names such as “Light blue touch-paper and retire” or ” Seaweed, sushi and Arbroath smokies” start to conjure up certain images that hopefully give an indication of the whisky’s character. Then below this, a large (and sometimes rambling) set of tasting notes describe, not only all the aromas and notes to expect, but in most cases will help build a picture in the mind of the whisky’s personality- a bit like a lonely hearts column. M 40, kind-hearted and generous with GSOH WLTM similar becomes “Starting off in a cottage in the morning clearing out the peat fire and end up in a rugby club with camphor muscle oil, hot and smokey – Russian caramel” (3.187 by the way!)   The green glass restricting the sight of the whisky’s colour, the uniformity of the bottles and the hidden distillery names all combine to mean you have to be tempted by what the whisky tastes like. Drop all your preconceived ideas and forget trying to recall all your own tasting notes - just be drawn in by the liquid and nothing else. Genius if you ask me because I have often held “blind” tastings where many people have remarked on the quality and taste of a whisky which upon revealing what it is, they are shocked to find it is something they would normally dismiss. The SMWS helps reintroduce whisky to even the most experienced of drinkers in a fun way. It breathes life into forgotten distilleries and with new outturn showcased in its monthly magazine, there is always something to tempt you. Interested? Memberships can be purchased here.

Anyway, where were we? Ah yes –  take this above ethos and apply it to dating as my friend did. By arranging the first date at The Vaults, she was being very clever indeed. Obviously they both liked whisky, so that was a bonus, but the clever thing here was, as they perused the menu of drams, they could get an indication of the others likes and dislikes without having to question – in fact,  as she blushingly recalled, there are even certain tasting tips that will help warm up the conversation. She pointed one out in particular from the list “Slip on the velvet robe, dig out your finest slippers and pay this dram a visit” . now, if you say that in a deep Cockney male voice, it might not have the same seductive properties of a softly spoken Edinburgh girl…but you get the idea. Reading through the collection of whisky titles, such as the two above will quickly let you get to grips with your date - don’t like sushi? mental note – next date is not Japanese…never been to Arbroath – who has?

So whisky “matching’ is not all about cheese, chocolate and canapes -( we do those here ) apparently it can pair people together as well.

Next month, Dramatic whisky are hosting a first - a Singles Night in association with Mutual Attraction, the select members dating site to see if this fire water can ignite some passion. Mutual Attraction was set up due to demand from city professionals and executives who were finding dating in London tough. The thought of having a photo online horrified them as did the notion they may have to spend their precious time hanging out at bars everynight. Mutual Attraction was born and the first thing they promised? Confidentiality and no photos on the web!

The event is open to non-members also so if you are in the mood for falling in love - even if it might just be with whisky, then book in here to join us.

 
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Posted by on June 11, 2012 in Reviews

 

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