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Balvenie Single Barrel 12 yr old

When I first heard that Balvenie were to release another version of the Single Barrel, this time a 12 year old, I got rather excited. Having always been a fan of the Single Barrel 15 year old, this newest expression was sure to get my lips smacking.

bourbon-cask

Single cask whiskies are a perfect time-shot of maturation, with each cask delivering a different and unique character to the whisky resting within and with no other casks married into batches, finding them is a rare treat. I say rare, because normally single cask expressions are limited in number. By their very nature, there is only as much as the cask can hold and once gone, never to be replicated. Normally it’s the selection of a malt master who will tend to discover a certain cask, resting and maturing at just the right pace which seems to be delivering a certain style, still in keeping with that of the distillery but a perfectly unique example. So when Balvenie decided to set aside casks to mature their whisky, releasing these after 15 years as single cask bottles it was a great opportunity for many more people that usual to sample some great drams. With each bottle being numbered and dated you could actually work out the age as not all seemed to be right for release at 15 years and if you do a little maths you can find examples of Balvenie Single Barrel 15 year old actually at 16 & 17 years and older.

This new 12 year old has been rested in First Fill casks of ex-bourbon. That may sound a little strange, calling a cask first fill if it’s actually second hand, but in the scotch industry we refer to cask use when it is used here. So an ex-bourbon cask is “first filled” with scotch, use it again and it becomes a refill cask. If the whisky was matured in a brand new cask, with no previous contents then it is know as “virgin cask” such as used by Deanston but few distillers use these as the powerful notes can sometimes be overpowering.

The Balvenie Single Barrel 12yr

Bottle number: Unknown (trade sample)

47.8% abv Non Chill Filtered

Ex-Bourbon Cask

300 bottles max per caskbalv

Appearance: Warm rose gold

Nose: As you would expect from Balvenie, the signature notes of honey, dried citrus peels and light spice are immediate. But there is a hit of sliced pear and vanilla ice cream which seems to dry out the nose somewhat, which isn’t surprising considering the 47.8% abv. Apple blossom emerges to give a floral element and ties everything up in a well structured bouquet.

Palate: Rich and honey sweet with perfect grip of cinnamon spice. The fruity notes of dried peel and a hint of pineapple roll through the palate with a pear tarte tatin sweetness. A malty backbone with deep woody vanilla holds it all together.

Finish: Sweet spicy honey all the way with a dry oak tail.

Summary: Although bold at this level of ABV, I didn’t think the addition of water was required and that shows how well integrated the spirit and cask has become. Big, it certainly is but what impressed me is the integration of flavour as they raised and dipped around a thick mouth-feel. There is a lot going on, but thankfully all in the same direction rather than challenging the palate too much. Well worth seeking this one out and with an RRP of just under £50 I think Balvenie will need to lay a few more casks down.

For other Balvenie Reviews click the links:  17 Double Wood, Tun 1401 batch 5, Dream Dram, 40 year old.

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Highland Park “Loki” – A trickster indeed

Having just returned from the recent “Warrior Release” of Highland Park, I wasn’t quite expecting another release to follow so soon, nor was I prepared for the intriguing manner in which this latest HP expression has made its way out into the world. disk

My postie is a very nice lady but she does have a habit of arriving at an ungodly hour and on this occasion remarked with her usual cheerfulness “Oh you are dressed!” which nicely set the discombobulated tone of the day as I struggled to wake up and remember if I had been inadvertently naked when I last saw her!  The mystery continued when I opened the delivery to find an intriguing unmarked black box and the black envelope within holding a disc of paper on which were printed strange symbols and letters. It took a while for me to work out that it was actually a flexagon which when refolded in certain ways would deliver different messages. Three in fact. The crossed legged man wrapped in a serpent, and the lines “All is not what it seems” and ” A serpent stirs in the smoky shadows”. Had I upset someone so much they had sent some kind of death threat to me?  Friends in the industry were also sent the same package and as we “tweeted” our thoughts, we tried to work out who it was from and what it was all about. The image did seem familiar and after a little more searching we found out it was to do with the second in The Valhalla Series from Highland Park- “Loki”

Got to love Google.

So this morning, a second parcel arrived. Similar black box, similarly plain looking package and yes I was dressed. Inside was a tube, with an origami serpent guarding a small bottle. Fortunately this time, the mystery was solved – the bottle had a label on it.

Smake HP

So who is Loki? From Norse mythology, he was a helper to the gods, but also a shape shifter and trickster seemingly causing them more problems than helping. I always thought, taking the word of the great Stan Lee, that he was the brother of Thor and the son of Odin , but apparently not and his name is set deep into ancient writings far beyond the modern portrayal of him. Anyway, with glass in hand it was easy to see why this slithery character was chosen as this whiskies name sake as the nose, palate and finish seems to shift and change at every approach. stirring stuff indeed.

Gerry Tosh, Global Marketing Manager says,Thor was the first of its kind, a true quality malt built around an individual’s personality. This proved massively successful and it sold out globally. Loki will continue to take Highland Park and The Valhalla Collection into new territory.

While everyone will recognize the definite ‘Highland Park-ness’ of this 15 Years Old Single Malt, it will be the unexpected and surprisingly smoky dynamics that will really get palates excited and mouths talking. This is unlike any expression that has come before and will beguile and fascinate with its complexity and trickery. Remember, all is not as it seems.”

Highland Park “Loki” 15year old

2013-03-08-loki_whisky_case

The Valhalla Series

47.8% ABV

European cask and peated cask.

Limited to 21,000 bottles

RRP £170

Appearance: Rose gold with like honey.

Nose: Artist oil paint, fresh squeezed orange juice, hessian cloth, fresh hay, linseed oil, warm honey blossom, rich malt, licorice root and a note of perished vulcanized rubber. Smoke never really appears, taking the form of the rubber note instead. Well developed but very complex.

Palate: A syrupy and rich beginning with burnt butter, walnut oil, busts of peat smoke and charred meat making up the start of the palate. Vanilla sauce over dried tropical peels of grapefruit and papaya, woody birch sap honey follows with ginger spice and ends with molasses licorice and lime preserve coated with peat smoke.

Finish: Dried peel, chunks of charred wood and earthy spices all fight for palate possession as the smokey finish grips in.

Summary: From first nosing this whisky, to the initial taste, then going back to it after a few minutes it had become three very different drams. Unmistakably Highland Park, yet at the same time layered with citrus and a level of peat smoke far greater than normally expected. But give it a minute and it switches round, the smoke dies, the warm spices emerge and the citrus calms. Then try again. Nothing is as it seems.

 
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Posted by on March 12, 2013 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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The Balvenie 17 Doublewood

When I was a kid, a friend of mine tried to be all clever and tell me that when you fly in a plane, the reason it seems like you are not going very fast is that our brains have not developed quickly enough to deal with flying, and as the outside world whizzes past the window, our brain has to slow it down to help us take it in. I think he ended up working on the shop floor for Tesco?

Clearly, he was and idiot. However, us humans do tend to have a bit of a problem trying to deal with vast amounts of time and even something not so vast, like a 50 year career and all it has brought. The world was a very different place just 50 years ago and it seems technology has flourished in the last few decades alone and bringing to us some of the greatest inventions such as television, the computer, air travel, space travel and double cask maturation. Ok, that last one might not actually make it into the top 10 greatest inventions of the 20th Century, but its up there in my book.

David Stewart, Master Distiler at The Balvenie was the pioneering distiller who, only in the 1980′s brought the whisky world “Double Maturation” a process of allowing whiskies to mature in one oak cask then transferred to another to complete the whiskies final characteristic. It began with The Balvenie Classic which later in 1993 became the 12 year old Double Wood that is known and loved around the world today. Using American ex-Bourbon cask to deliver creamy vanilla and smooth fruit notes and an ex-sherry cask which delivers richness and spice together creating the characteristic heather honey aroma and taste that The Balvenie is famed for. As ever, those guys at The Balvenie are tight lipped about the exact amount of time the whisky spends in each cask, but from my experience with sherry finish whisky, it doesn’t actually take too long (less than a year) to draw those wonderful spicy notes out of the cask.

David celebrated his 50th year with the company making him the longest serving distiller in the whisky world in September and to mark this momentous occasion David chose to release a rather special 50 yr old Balvenie- sadly, at £20,000 a bottle this review is not about that particular dram! (I think my sample got lost in the post guys)

However, it is about the newest kid on the Balvenie block namely The Balvenie 17 year old Double Wood. It is nice to see that within the range of The Balvenie there is now a linear whisky, and by that I mean an opportunity for the consumer to taste how a whisky develops over time. Far too often whisky ranges are peppered with separate expressions and it can be a little confusing for the consumer. Even The Balvenie has a similar set up with 12 year Double Wood which as mentioned is Ex-bourbon/ex-sherry, 12 year Signature which is both refill and first fill bourbon and then ex-sherry and then the 15 Single Barrel which, as the name may suggest, is just ex-bourbon. Of course, The Balvenie also have many limited releases such as the Tun 1401 and Liberated Casks and 40 year old. With this in mind, this new release has me very excited indeed.

The Balvenie 17 year old Double Wood

Ex-Bourbon cask, Ex-Sherry Cask

43% abv

RRP: £75 from 1st November 2012

Appearance: Burnished copper and warm gold

Nose: Immediately rich and fruity with a heady mix of honey, golden syrup and vanilla cream through candied orange peel and brazil nut. There are ripe conference pears dipped in caramel and well as a warming oak note helping to pin down the abundant fruits. Blueberry muffin with ice caramel latte on the side.

Palate: Rounded, rich and juicy. Classic Balvenie honey element which is dried out, quicker than you find in the 12 year old, by nutmeg and a hints of cocoa nib. Spices prevail mid palate with deliciously delicate clove, mace and cinnamon all seemingly mixed in cloudy cider. Complex it certainly is and very rewarding it certainly has more of a mature statement to make over its younger sibling.

Finish: Loads of spice going on here- wave after wave of earthy rich notes yet still able to wrap a trace of honey through there. Strangely I picked up merest hint of chilli oil which seemed to linger on the palate for quite some time in a very welcoming way.

Summary: Certain to be as big a hit as the 12 year old this clever expression has retained all that is good and great about The Balvenie and addd an extra element in the way of maturint. However, don’t be fooled into thinking this has become just another smoothed out whisky with less of a character in its own right, far from it, the 17 year old seems to have developed a kick of spice and heat which really makes you take notice.

 
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Posted by on October 30, 2012 in Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Balblair 1996 Travel Retail release

Ahead of what will no doubt be a very busy week after The Whisky Exchange annual Whisky Show, I thought it best to try to review a few samples that have been sent to me before the pile on my desk becomes either out of date or a task too great for a mere man to tackle. Its been quite an active time of late with a number of brands releasing new expressions and talk of a few more in the near future. All great news for the industry as clearly there is a growing demand and with it a growing audience.

The first new release for review is from Balblair, one of my top rated malts and I recently reviewed a number of fabulous examples from the distillery here. This Travel Retail (duty free to those not in the trade) exclusive, which will replace the current 1995 release, comes in 1 litre bottles and will be available next month after its official launch at Tax Free World Association exhibition in Cannes (October 21-26).

As with all the Balblair range, the ’96 comes without chill filtration and at an ABV of 46% which helps maintain the depth of character, adding complexity to the spirit on both the nose and palate. The 1996 vintage was bottled in 2012 after spending its 16 years of maturation in ex-bourbon cask only.

Balblair Single Malt Whisky (Travel Retail exclusive) Vintage 1996

Non-chill filtered & Natural colouring 46% abv

Ex-Bourbon cask

£49.99 1 litre

Appearance: Pale straw with warm gold

Nose: Light honey with fresh butter undertones, coconut flesh surrounded by fresh summer red fruits, pear and candied lemon peel. A light dusting of nutmeg traces delicately through it all which offers a grounded note to the otherwise zesty fruit.

Palate: Immediately creamy and full in the mouth, bursting with richness and bright spices. Cinnamon takes over the nutmeg now but wave after wave of rich vanilla, orange blossom honey on buttered crumpets with calvados drizzled tarte tatin.

Finish: The spice lingers, but a cleansing citrus note, not too powerful, helps maintain the balance.

In summary, a splendid dram which showcases the maturation of the distillery’s typical releases to perfection. Underneath the rich aromas are all the classic signs of a well produced Balblair spirit and without any tampering, the 1996 will undoubtedly be a hit with frequent travellers. Now where is my passport?

 
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Posted by on September 30, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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Dating by numbers- The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Whisky has always been a drink that brings people together, of that there is no doubt, and especially a drink to inspire conversation. We often imagine people gathered round a fire at the end of an evening, “chewing the fat” after a meal, recounting tales and anecdotes amongst friends. But what of more romantic encounters? As whisky becomes young again and catches the imagination of a whole new demographic, it seems to be found in more unusual circumstances.

Last week, I travelled to Edinburgh to host some tastings in the city – it certainly seemed strange flying back over the border with a suitcase full of whisky, but it gave me the chance to catch up with old friends and of course make new ones along the way. I met the boyfriend of a friend who was recalling (over a whisky) how they met. They were in fact both members of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, although they had actually met in the pub, they chose their first “date” to be at the society’s venue in Leith called The Vaults. Now, for those who do not know how the society operates, let me explain.

The SMWS purchase single casks from distilleries all over Scotland (and further afield) to bottle non-chill filtered and at cask strength in limited run to members. The bottles are not overly expensive and the society rooms in Edinburgh, of which there are two- the Vaults and Queens street, as well as in Farringdon in London, allow members to bring in up to three guests, enjoy a lunch perhaps or simply kick back with the papers in the relaxed surroundings and partake in a dram or two. There are also great meeting rooms to use and always something going on arranged by the society. I like it because it’s not stuffy, the bar staff are young and knowledgeable and for those of you who don’t like whisky (eh?) there is a fine wine list and fab beer selection too.

First timers may be a little confused as on glancing at the back bar it seems they only have one whisky on offer? But upon closer inspection, the society’s best asset comes into play. Every bottle is the same shape, green glass, tall with a slimmed waist and handsomely broad shoulders. The white label across the front has only a set of numbers, 17.23 for example, the first being the distillery the bottling came from and the second refers to the number of the cask the society has procured.   Below this, is the title of the whisky, names such as “Light blue touch-paper and retire” or ” Seaweed, sushi and Arbroath smokies” start to conjure up certain images that hopefully give an indication of the whisky’s character. Then below this, a large (and sometimes rambling) set of tasting notes describe, not only all the aromas and notes to expect, but in most cases will help build a picture in the mind of the whisky’s personality- a bit like a lonely hearts column. M 40, kind-hearted and generous with GSOH WLTM similar becomes “Starting off in a cottage in the morning clearing out the peat fire and end up in a rugby club with camphor muscle oil, hot and smokey – Russian caramel” (3.187 by the way!)   The green glass restricting the sight of the whisky’s colour, the uniformity of the bottles and the hidden distillery names all combine to mean you have to be tempted by what the whisky tastes like. Drop all your preconceived ideas and forget trying to recall all your own tasting notes - just be drawn in by the liquid and nothing else. Genius if you ask me because I have often held “blind” tastings where many people have remarked on the quality and taste of a whisky which upon revealing what it is, they are shocked to find it is something they would normally dismiss. The SMWS helps reintroduce whisky to even the most experienced of drinkers in a fun way. It breathes life into forgotten distilleries and with new outturn showcased in its monthly magazine, there is always something to tempt you. Interested? Memberships can be purchased here.

Anyway, where were we? Ah yes –  take this above ethos and apply it to dating as my friend did. By arranging the first date at The Vaults, she was being very clever indeed. Obviously they both liked whisky, so that was a bonus, but the clever thing here was, as they perused the menu of drams, they could get an indication of the others likes and dislikes without having to question – in fact,  as she blushingly recalled, there are even certain tasting tips that will help warm up the conversation. She pointed one out in particular from the list “Slip on the velvet robe, dig out your finest slippers and pay this dram a visit” . now, if you say that in a deep Cockney male voice, it might not have the same seductive properties of a softly spoken Edinburgh girl…but you get the idea. Reading through the collection of whisky titles, such as the two above will quickly let you get to grips with your date - don’t like sushi? mental note – next date is not Japanese…never been to Arbroath – who has?

So whisky “matching’ is not all about cheese, chocolate and canapes -( we do those here ) apparently it can pair people together as well.

Next month, Dramatic whisky are hosting a first - a Singles Night in association with Mutual Attraction, the select members dating site to see if this fire water can ignite some passion. Mutual Attraction was set up due to demand from city professionals and executives who were finding dating in London tough. The thought of having a photo online horrified them as did the notion they may have to spend their precious time hanging out at bars everynight. Mutual Attraction was born and the first thing they promised? Confidentiality and no photos on the web!

The event is open to non-members also so if you are in the mood for falling in love - even if it might just be with whisky, then book in here to join us.

 
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Posted by on June 11, 2012 in Reviews

 

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