RSS

Tag Archives: distillation

Glengoyne new releases- 15,18 & Cask strength reviewed

glengoybe

In this world of “Top Ten” lists, it would be of no surprise to find Glengoyne distillery  high up the standings of a “prettiest distilleries” list (actually, I might have to put that together). Nestled at the foot of the Trossach hills in central Scotland and taking its name from Glen Guin meaning valley of the wild goose, a feature carried onto the new packaging in the form of small stria to represent the goose feather, Glengoyne has been producing whisky for nearly 200 years. Looking at the bottle, it clearly states 1833 as its established date, however, like most distilleries in Scotland, that date is more to do when the excise man caught them producing whisky without license and many distilleries have a much earlier date to mark first production with. But time is important at Glengoyne, with the casks they use taking six years to prepare, a 56 hr fermentation and one of the longest distillation times in the industry before maturing in those costly ex-sherry cask. Curiously, the distillery straddles the “highland line” with distilation taking place in the highlands, yet maturation taking place over the road in the lowlands, but you know my thoughts on whisky regions anyway!  You would be mistaken if you think that all this extra time is simply to take life at a bit more of a leisurly pace, although that may be part of the reason, Glengoyne has always been held in high esteem for its careful approach with rewarding results. The normal expressions that can be found of Glengoyne are 10, 12, 17, and 21 year old but two have just been replaced and one new addition in the form of a cask strength all of which I was introduced to recently.

20121216-120919.jpg

Glengoyne 15 year old single malt (replaces the 12)

43% ABV

70% first fill ex sherry cask, 30% refill ex sherry cask

RRP £47.99

Appearance- Rose gold highlighted with apple green.

Nose- Immediately opens with warm honey, nut oil,  baked apples, dried apricots and a light cherry note. Spices come through as fresh ginger, pineapple and light vanilla with cinnamon. Towards the end of the note, a dryer, more mineral element of green tea leaf emerges.

Palate- Much of that detected in the nose makes a second appearance here on the palate, rich orchard fruits, honey and spice but with the added weight of chewy malt as it heads towards the finish.

Finish- Lingering well balanced spice and fruit with a malt backbone.

20121216-121056.jpg

Glengoyne 18 year old single malt (replacing the 17)

43% ABV

50% 1st fill ex sherry cask, 50% refill ex sherry cask

RRP £74.99

Appearance- Light amber with bright yellow gold

Nose- Oily and spiced with linseed oil, cricket bat and glaziers putty lifted towards fruity notes of bergamot, dried mandarin peel and stewed orchard red fruits.

Palate-Again, many of the elements found in the aroma are carried over here. Rich and nutty with chewy fruits which add depth and sweetness to the otherwise dry spiced palate. Struck match comes through as the final spice.

Finish- lingering prickly sweet spice and drying struck match in perfect balance.

20121216-121102.jpg

Glengoyne Cask Strength Single Malt Batch 1

No age statement

Non chill filtered

58.7% ABV

30% 1st fill ex sherry cask 70% refill ex sherry cask

RRP £46.99

Appearance- Polished copper and warm bronze.

Nose- Cinder toffee, caramac bar, thick cut marmalade and chicory make up the abundantly rich and slightly oily nose with a good malty background aroma of banana bread.

Palate- Characteristically Glengoyne with its nutty oil of linseed and fruit, bell peppers, slightly tropical again with warm banana, caramel and hints of light citrus to light the palate. with a splash of water, the fruity elements come to the fore with delicious buttered digestive and toffee banana.

Finish- lingering spice of mostly pepper, butter and vanilla.

Summary- Three excellent drams in their own right, each delivering very different characteristics whilst still showing the familiar DNA of Glengoyne.  For me, the 15 actually delivered a more complex experience than either of the other two with it’s clever balancing act of various casks. Prices are perhaps above that of most other brands of similar age, but dont let this put you off as The Glengoyne is certainly worth paying (and waiting) for.

About these ads
 
2 Comments

Posted by on December 17, 2012 in Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Chill out- the science of whisky.

Look at most labels on a bottle of whisky and you will see indicators (in most cases, poor ones) of what’s inside. Age, distillery, finish or maturation, the strength etc. Some brands are even kind enough to indicate what the contents might actually taste of which seems to be a radical move as it is certainly not the normal practice. Now and then you will see the words “non-chill filtered” which indicates another process the whisky has undergone (or not) before bottling.

Great. So it’s non-chill filtered. That’s reassuring to the purchasing consumer isn’t it and helps him justify the price based on those words and the higher alcoholic level. Well no, actually it does neither. Labels on whisky are still, like labels on French wine, unfathomable to most and no indicator of the quality within. Brands seem to be approaching this from two sides, either wholeheartedly throwing out the rule book such as Balblair, Glenrothes, Wemyss and others. But others seem frightened of alienating the old guard of customers who might be shocked not to see a highland cow on a label, or a misty glen of reassurance that it’s authentic and traditional scotch. What a load of bollocks.

Anyway, I could go on (and on and on) about various aspects of this, but I want to concentrate on just one. The chill filtered bit.

Chill filtration is a process employed by some distillers at the point between removing the matured whisky from the cask and bottling it. All whisky is filtered to remove any residual particles that may be have been picked up from the cask itself by passing it though fine gauze or absorption filters. This can be done without chilling the whisky and simply passing it through the filter. But this simply approach leaves fatty acids, fusel oils and other hydrophobic elements in the whisky which will cause a haze when the whisky is cold or the whisky will turn cloudy when water or ice is added.

By chilling the whisky those elements responsible for causing a change in appearance will clump together and become too large in their composition, stopping them getting through the filter. The haze is only noticeable in whisky below 46% ABV, although it all depends on where the distiller has chosen to “cut” the still run.

Once the still is heated, the heads or foreshots are the first parts in distillation to come over the still and contain some of the lightest alcoholic elements such as methanol. From then on, various compounds will each in turn become activated and vapourise and pass over the neck for collection. Distillers will usually direct this first run back into the wash still for re-distillation. The later part of the run know as the tails or feints is where we see the temperature of the spirit in the still reaching top levels, and thus the start of water elements coming through along with the heaviest alcohol elements (fatty acids and fusel oils). Each element has it’s place in creating the style and character of the whisky, but it’s the choice of the distiller to decide the point where he switches from diverting the heads to collecting the heart and again switching off as it enters the feints stage.

The longer you wait or cut into the feints, the more heavier elements you bring over the still neck which will produce an oily spirit, heavy and rich. If the wash is from pleated barley, then you will actually want to hold a deep cut as the phenolic elements which carry the smokey nature are found in this latter part of the process. You can see this most apparent with Islay examples such as Laphroaig Quarter Cask which is at 48% abv against something much lighter such as The English Whisky Company Chapter 6. Pop a sample of each in a glass, say 50ml and add 5 ml of water to each and see the difference. Laphroaig will haze much more as the cut from the still is deep into the feints to ensure the classic phenolic and oily nature of the whisky is maintained. The English example, which is unpeated, cuts early in the run, avoiding the weightier elements and as a result, the haze is a lot less….in fact, David Fitt, the master distiller at TEWC indicated recently that even at 43% abv their spirit did not have a haze, despite being no-chill filtered.

Many people believe that chill filtration will cause some of the congeners (the esters, aldehydes, acids and higher alcohols contained in the distillate) are hampered and as the elements “clump” together in the cold state, they trap some of the other elements that would otherwise pass through, effecting the final character. I’m not entirely sure this is the case or if it is would we be able to pick up the change? What I do know from the many tasting we have held with Dramatic Whisky is that consumers note the “oily” and heavier mouth-feel to the whisky which most of the time helps belay the higher alcoholic amount and creates a rounded, fuller whisky.

 
12 Comments

Posted by on August 7, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Whisky Regions- who needs them?

Before I ever begin a tasting session, I can probably write down the five questions I will surely be asked. 1. What is your favourite whisky? 2. Do very expensive whiskies taste good? 3. Is it ok to add ice/water? 4. What is Bourbon and 5. How many whisky regions are there. It is this last question that normally launches me off into a ramble lasting longer than it probably should.

The thing is, you can approach whisky in a number of ways, from the very detailed study of the science involved- it’s germination, fermentation, methanols, ethanolsphenols, fatty acids, and esters bumping into copper, catalysing and oxidisingesterifying to create the flavours and aromas we expect, to the far simpler approach of knowing what style you like and just enjoying it with friends. Of course, there is a huge chasm of information between one approach and the other and I for one tend to choose a path somehwere between the two in order to understand the science without it distracting me from the joy on the whisky itself.

But what of those just starting out on the journey of whisky discovery? What should they look out for? Where should the journey begin? Well, understanding what you like yourself is a huge help. Like spicy food?  Probably going to like a spicy whisky. Like salty food, then it might be a coastal distillery you aim for. So how about these whisky regions we hear of? Surely those make it simple I hear you say. Well no actually, they only confuse in my opinion.

There are six whisky “regions” in Scotland. Highland, Speyside, Lowland, Island, Campbelltown and Islay. Supposedly, these areas each have their own distinct style and therefore give an indication of the whisky inside the bottle when the region it hails from is printed on the label. That, quite frankly, is the type of out-dated approach to whisky that won’t do it any good as the world of whisky (non-scotch) builds in quality and confidence causing us to cling to our tartan hems as the waters of progress start lapping at them. To understand why regions play little or no part in modern whisky, we have to understand how they came about in the first place. In the early 16th century, the whisky produced would have been distilled from a variety of grains, including barley, and these grain recipes would no doubt have differed from farm to village as any surplus of harvested grain was set aside for distillation. Whisky was in a healthy, if somewhat unregulated, state of production all across Scotland,  but it wasn’t until the union of the English and Scottish parliaments in 1707 that we start seeing a big shift in attitude and production. A malt tax was introduced (as had already been the case in England) which upset Scottish producers and consumers no end and it’s continued increase saw riots in the streets and general bloody unrest know as the Malt Tax Riots. As taxation increase once more illicit distilling was just around the corner, forced out of the farms and homes and starting to spread (home-made spirit was exempt from tax).

As Londoners lay drunk in the streets on gin, parliament drew up the Gin Act to try and stem the “flow” of gin consumption and limit production and sale by imposing costly licenses and high duty for producers and retailers. Scotland was exempt (for now) of this act and as such, production of mixed grain spirit increased which would eventually make its way across the border to be made into gin.  Although, it was probably a ban on distilling in the mid and late 1700′s (crop failure) that helped drive the illegal sale of whisky in Scotland, as the home distiller, still under the radar of the excise man and exempt from the legislation imposed on its commercial neighbours, started to supply the ever increasing demand for whisky.

The Highland Line (the first of the regions) divided Scotland in two, for the purpose of differing duty and regulations about spirit production. The tax was lowered for those above the line, but they were banned from exporting the spirit out of the region (yup, not even within their own country) but this did see a certain amount of quality control as Highland distillers could use a smaller still than their Lowland counterparts and could take their time in the production of the spirit. Those below the line however, were forced to produce a harsher spirit from still which could be worked quickly in order to increase outrun. This of course all fell nicely into the hands of the smugglers and illegal distillers who cashed in on trade opportunities around the UK. It wasn’t until the early 1800′s and the introduction of the small stills act  that the Highland Line was abolished, the duty was reduced and smaller stills were permitted. This saw a fast growth in legal distilleries and an equilibrium of quality between the two now defunct regions. So, a historic line drawn for tax purposes which THEN changed how those above and below distilled their spirits still demands we choose our whisky style based on location. Glengoyne distillery, which happens to straddle the imaginary line distills in the Highlands, yet its warehouse lies on the opposite side of the road effectively in the Lowlands…a case of split personality?

For the purpose of this blog, I have only just scratched the surface. For more in-depth information about the history of whisky and how many of the traditions evolved I suggest picking up a copy of Charlie Maclean’s book – Malt Whisky, The Complete Guide in which Charlie really gets to grips with the historical side of whisky.

Speyside has one of the highest concentration of distilleries now in operation in Scotland. The land surrounding the river Spey is fertile and produces excellent quality barley from its deep alluvial soil from the banks of the Moray firth, good peat moorland, plenty of springs from the snow capped Cairgorms which also provided great hiding places for the number of illegal distillers of the time. Speyside has a vast array of styles but due to the fame of The Glenlivet distillery, many tried to emulate its light fruity flavour and smooth finish. Yet, just in the next glen we can find heavy full on rich style (Aberlour) and even a smokey whisky (Ardmore). The diversity of these distilleries simple means you can’t guarantee the style of the whisky in the bottle if it says “Speyside” on the label.

Campbelltown, a town on the Kintyre peninsula which hangs down off the west of Scotland, did at one point have over 25 distilleries, with many more in the surrounding countryside- and like Speyside benefitted from good peat, barley, spring water and troublesome geographical location. By all acounts, there didnt seem to be a particular “style” produced here, something between the Islay distileries and Highland. Today only three distilleries making 5 different whiskies remain Springbank (Hazelburn, Longrow), Glen Scotia and Kilkerran. There is something you can guarantee from this droop of land as a friend of mine who worked for the BBC told me the angle the peninsula lies off the coast is the maximum angle the naked male appendage can be if ever viewed on the BBC with the island of Arran adding somewhat of an additional piece of imagery for this purpose.

So what are we left with? The “islands” and “Islay“. Well, considering the islands are lumped together as all islands of Scotland (with the exception of Islay) no matter if they are tucked up in sheltered firths such as Arran, Lewis in the outer Hebridean or Highland Park on Orkney- far too vast an area to have a singular “style”. There are heavily peated styles, light and floral, rich and fruity….good luck.

Isaly, I am almost tempted to say is actually they only one you can be sure of style. Typically peated, fresh and maritime notes with the distinct nose of iodine from the heavily peated barley. But would that put you off Bunnahabhain? Seeing the words Islay on its label, if you didnt like smokey whisky might just do that. But Bunnahabhain, on the north east of the island, does not peat its barley and therefore is not a smokey whisky (although they now have Toitech).

So, these regions we seem to so dearly to maintain are nothing more than marketing provenance to a by-gone era. They do little to help us understand what is in the bottle and can simply confuse a reader in most cases. Thankfully, brands are beginning to realise that it is better to put better tasting notes and a bit more info to help out, yet its normally on the back label with a region proudly displayed on the front. Further to this, distilleries like Balvenie are constantly pushing the development of their style- with the likes of Single Cask, Peated Cask and full sherry cask all joining the list from the distillery normal releases and none of that trio are anything like the expected taste and smell of Balvenie, a risk perhaps which could upset the regular Balvenie drinker- but distilleries like Bavenie realise that the whisky drinker is changing, becoming younger, coming from new countries and from very different backgrounds. These individuals are key to the future growth of whisky and are choosing their tipple on flavour, not historic political or geographical boundaries.

 
7 Comments

Posted by on July 3, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Return of the red-eye.

Glasgow, despite me not being born there, has always seemed quite homely to me. I moved there in 1996 from Dundee to find more interesting work and a richer gene pool. Anyone who knows the comedian Frankie Boyle will know that Dundee really is a place most people want to leave as soon as they can. In fairness, it’s vastly improved since then and even has an airport which flies direct to London City, but it’s too expensive if you ask a Dundonian.

20120306-230514.jpg

Frankie says it's shit

Running a number of bars and restaurants in Glasgow made the city feel more homely to me. It didn’t take long to have a wide a varied crowd of friends in the industry and we all seemed to move in the same circles making Glasgow almost village like at times. Areas such as Byres road with Ashton lane almost replicating the high street of a hamlet or the Merchant city with its heady mix of the pink pound and the cutting edge cool had created pockets of society who were a kind of nomadic herd. Find yourself at a loose end at any time of the day or night and you just needed to wander into one of these areas to catch up with a pal. Remember, SMS was in its infancy back then.
It helps that the Glaswegians are generally such a social and welcoming bunch. Well, as long as you are not wearing the wrong football colours on a Saturday night in Sauchiehall Street. Not like Edinburgh which is all old money and law, Glasgow was built by its people, for it’s people and hasn’t lost sight of its hard working-class roots.

It had been 8 years since I had been “home”, mostly due to the fact that every time I travelled back to Scotland I headed to see the folks on the east cost and merely drove past the outskirts of Glasgow on the way but this time I had a couple of meetings to attend and a distillery to visit.
I flew from Luton, after grabbing an early train from London. I am not actually sure what train it was, or at what time because I didn’t actually wake up until the seatbelt sign went out but I arrived in Glasgow around 9am.

20120306-230725.jpg

Not quite the fanny-magnet I was hoping for.

Car hire, like most things we see advertised, seems such an easy task. The families on the billboards and leaflets are always smiling into the yet uncharted distance with their shiny wee hire car, a simple, no hassle experience to aid your onward journey. That might be the case in the movies and the world of advertising, but when you forget a couple of so called “vital” bits of info, it can turn out quite farcical. For example: you must pay a deposit by the same card you booked the car with. Oops, don’t have that with me. And you can pay cash? No, of course not, that would be too simple. Anyway, after an hour of working on a solution, shifting money around bank accounts and generally loosing the will to drive anywhere other than back to bed, I had my car. During the process, there was a calming influence that kept my temper at bay, that being the desk clerk repeatedly sipping from a bottle of irn-bru. Ah, it was indeed good to be back.

I used to drive on the M8 every day into work and its funny how things from the past can sit in your memory with out you realising it. If you had asked me to describe the journey from the airport to the centre, I would have struggled, but like some kind of tin clad homing pigeon, there I was, without hesitation driving in all the right lanes, indicating without realising it and turning off at the correct junctions straight into Glasgow.

It was an hour till my meeting so I parked up and took a wander. It’s quite amazing to see how huge areas of the city have been regenerated and look all shiny and inviting. It was always a great place to shop, but the areas which had all the good shops were little retail island in amongst a sea of run down tenements, derelict offices and gravel car parks. Now it seemed the link between the top end designer shops and the high street had been bridged by mid end fashion houses, independent retailers and generally quite smart shop fronts. It was raining though, so the council failed on improving that part.

After my meeting it was a short drive to Auchentoshan. Despite living in Glasgow for a long time, I never did make it out to the distillery, shameful I know! But that meant I was looking forward to it all the more. “Auchie” has always sat in a strange place for me, not just georaphically, but also in my mind. A lowland malt, perhaps by geography only as the core range has some decidedly weightier styles than a lowland. But who cares? Regional selection is dead. The whisky maps should all be burned and fuelled with English money that drew the highland line in the first place. I always chuckled when I read the description of Auchentoshan “ideally located between the poetic banks of Loch Lomond and the bustling metropolis that is Glasgow” eh? It’s at the end of the Erskin bridge, next to a council estate on the Great Western Road. It couldn’t be more “Glasgow” if I tried. Gotta love a bit of PR spin though. It is in fact so close to Glasgow that it was bombed during the war! That was the second world war, not a Rangers-Celtic derby.

In fairness, it probably did seem quite rural when it was built in the early 1800′s (although there is evidence of it being much earlier) and the name Auchentoshan means “corner of the field” in the Scots tongue, but it’s location today at least makes it one of the more accessible distilleries being only about 20 minutes drive from the airport.

20120306-124955.jpg

You should see the T-shirt you get at the end of this lot!

The distillery offers a number of different tours for people to choose from, catering for all levels of whisky knowledge and I was privileged to be given a personal tour of the facilities. A bit more in depth than a standard tour but of course I am not about to get all geeky about spirit cuts and wash temperatures here. Sorry to disappoint. It’s a wonderful smell when approaching the distillery, that rich malty note in the air, mingled with rain of course, and the sight of the warehouses and still house which are nestled closely together at the base of a sloping valley on the banks of the Clyde. Despite its fame, Auchentoshan remains fairly small in it’s operation although it’s single set of three stills and one mash tun are now working 7 days a week to keep up with the demand and is turning out close to 2 million litres per annum, surely set to increase further in the near future.

It is well known that Auchentoshan distill three times, creating a light, floral new make spirit with plenty of green notes and sweeter malt tones. What is perhaps less well known is that Auchie uses water from a loch, not a spring. In fact, it is the same water supply that Glasgow receives its tap water from, albeit from a direct pipe rather than the aged Victorian lead system no doubt still rife beneath the adjacent city. It does raise the question regarding distillers banging on about water quality and how vital it is for purity. Surely the impurities are boiled off? Surely all of Scotland’s water, loch or spring, has passed through similar paths. Most of the Scottish lochs are actual fed by any number of springs, and there is less chance of concentrated sheep piss or a dead cow lying in the middle of a loch. Maybe a question to raise with a distiller at your next visit?

20120306-124808.jpg

The perfect place for a relaxed dram.

I loved the simple, no bullshit approach of the whole distillery. A really warm welcome from all the staff, great visual aids all around the facility and a lovely little visitors centre and lounge area to relax in. Its a pity they don’t see more footfall as it is not part of the Whisky trail, but look, let’s face it, if you want to visit Scotland and get a good idea of its people, land and heritage, you can’t go far wrong than a flight to Glasgow, a drive to the distillery then onto the west coast, which, despite me being an east coaster, is far more awe inspiring.

After the tour, we got down to some tasting delights and again, I was privy to a rather select range as I had tasted the core range many number of times. I also had the car, so it was three tiny wee tastes and a gallon of water (after, not with)
First up was the Auchentoshan Valinch a non chill filtered cask strength (57.5%) youthful dram from first fill ex-bourbon. Most probably between 7-8 years old. It was a welcome start, with it’s nose showing the lightness of the new make, even at this strength and gorgeous fruity notes of banana, Creme caramel and nutty cream and the palate showed the same but a bit more deeper fruits as if warmed with spice. Having been drawn straight from the cask, (a valinch is the oversized pipette that draws samples from a cask) the bottling held evidence of its previous container with a fair amount of charcoal residue at the base of the bottle.

20120306-130650.jpg
Next was the 1996 of which I was informed there are only 41 bottles remaining! Again, a cask strength whisky (57.1) and non-chill filtered and from first fill hogshead cask. This particular example was distilled in 1996 and bottled in Dec 2011. It truly was bursting with power and elegance as masses of rich spice and liquorice battled side by side with floral overtones and a creamy, almost oily mouthfeel.

20120306-131135.jpgThe last dram of the session was a beauty. An 18 yr old at cask strength again. still with its old label rather than the newer, and might I say really stylish one. Immediately surprising was the light nose. Complex yes, with rich leather, nutty balance and faint citrus but still that wonderfully light and floral element remained from the new make. Testimony here that triple distillation really does shine through in character, even after all these years in such a fruit driven vessel. I really do wish I had stayed longer and had arranged for alternative transport as I am sure the day could have ended with a longer seat at the bar. However, I didn’t go back empty handed as I managed to get some fresh malted barley and freshly ground grist to use in my tastings. The trouble was, both were in screw top containers and resembled bomb making equipment. How on earth was I getting this through airport security?

Despite giving myself an extra hour to negotiate this potential hurdle, it turned out that I needn’t have bothered. Upon arriving at security I removed both vessels from my hand luggage and placed them in the black tray along with my coat etc. Immediately it raise a question from the security officer.
“What’s that.” he said in a cold, secure manner.
“Malt and grist” I replied, ready o further explain.
“Oh” he nodded “Right”
At this point, he turned round to the x-ray operator and repeated my exact words which were met with an affirmative nod. My bag passed through and without a further word I was passed security.

Amazing. You can’t take a bottle of sealed scotch through security, but you can take the component parts required to make it through no bother- and the grist looked more like anthrax spores!
It did give me more time to browse duty free and the bar- which despite being a Weatherspoons actually hand a fabulous range of malts on offer.

20120306-225545.jpg
So for all those years I have been away from Glasgow, it seems I have taken a wee part of it away with me this time in more ways than one.

 
Leave a comment

Posted by on March 6, 2012 in tasting

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,620 other followers