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Stronachie 12 yr old – Born again

There have been a few whiskies recently that have been revived in one way or another,  Mackinlay’s Shackleton recovered from the ice of Antarctica or something slightly closer to home like The Tweedale  for example, each with its own unique journey back towards our glasses once again. Bygone or lost distilleries are often very much sought after by the whisky fraternity but I think its just nice to hear that people go to the trouble to recreate something forgotten, bringing it back to new audiences and breathing a bit of life back into a brand such is the case with the latest sample to arrive at the desks of Dramatic Whisky HQ.

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Stronachie distillery, Perthshire, was founded in the 1890s and remained in operation until 1928 when a shortgage of barley forced the then owners, St James Export Company Ltd, to close with the buildings eventually being demolished in the 1950′s. During its operation, the Stronachie brand was represented by Dewar Rattray and it was that company, known today as A.D. Rattray, that has brought Stronachie single malt back to life. After purchasing an early bottling of Stronachie at auction in the mid 1990′s, probably the last know example on the market, they set about recreating the malt from a small sample with guidance from Tim Morrison, formally of Morrison Bowmore and now owner of A.D.Rattray. It seemed that the character of the original sample most closely resembled current malt stock from the Benrinnes distillery helping move this project forward to its first re-release in 2001. The range currently available is formed of a 12 and 18 year old expression of which I have the 12 year old set out below. This particularr whisky is produced in small batches from a combination of two ex-sherry butts and four ex-bourbon casks.

Stronachie 12 year old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Bottled by A.D Rattray from Benrinnes Distillery

43% ABV

RRP £32StronachieDR12y43PICT8510

Appearance: Pale rose gold

Nose: Sliced green apple which has become slightly sweet with oxidisation, damp oak shavings, honey suckle and jasmine flowers (tea). Ground roasted hazelnuts which becomes a light charred note.

Palate: Rounded sweetness with a full malty note. Light spice of mace, cinnamon and white pepper before turning nutty (ground almond) with vanilla cream and freshly charred oak.

Finish: Lingering sweetness mixed with spice and a peppery grip.

Summary: It is of course a very difficult thing to try to recreate a malt, and it is difficult to know how closely this example matches the original product, so the only thing I can do is to sample the offering and review it as a stand alone which I am pleased to say is rather delightful. It certainly falls into my style of malt with a good balance of sweet and spice without too much overpowering vanilla and oak.

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101 world Whiskies to try before you die- Ian Buxton

I have never been a book lover, not that I have anything against them, I am sure they have their use, but I was never a kid to bury my head in a novel and sit quietly in the corner for hours. Alas, as my mother found out, I was more interested in dismantling the radio alarm clock to make a lazer gun or tying chunks of bread to fishing line and trying (in vain) to catch birds in the back garden. These are just two examples of the manic projects I would give myself that distracted me from books. That’s not to say I don’t have a small collection of the classics which I decided to force myself into reading. Turns out I actually quite like Hunter S Thompson, F Scott Fitzgerald and a number of other novelists who have random single letters in their names.

Books for me are points of reference I choose to dip in and out of when in need of research or ones that have lovely arty pictures of naked women (oops, I mean bikes)..such as Rouleur  from Rapha – the most beautiful cycling magazine in the world. Of course I have my fair share of whisky titles upon the shelves. Thing is though, there is only so many times you can read about how big your mash tun is, how many litres your washback holds or the strain of yeast you use. “You make whisky right? Tastes good does it? Brilliant, I will try some thanks.”

The trouble with most whisky books is that they are either aimed at a certain individual who perhaps have a good knowledge of whisky and will lodge that piece of information about the worm tubs somewhere in the back of their mind to recall at an opportune moment with some equally geeky enthusiasts. Or, are so basic and lacking in any real content that they are best used as a door stop or coaster for your dram.

It was with great delight then, when yesterday a copy of Ian Buxton’s new ’101 World Whiskies to try before you die’ dropped on my desk. The nicely sized book (it will fit on your shelf) is the follow up release from Ian’s 101 Whiskies to try before you die which as the titles suggests is, oh you get it!

So why another book? Well, as Ian says in the prologue, the world is changing and the “world” of whiskies is just that – worldly. So this edition has a tiny proportion of scotch and is more concerned about what’s happening outside of Scotland.

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On my first flick through I was surprised to see Johnnie Walker Jubilee staring at me. Oh oh, here we go again, another book filled with unobtainable drams and overly priced bottlings….but upon closer inspection the index of the whisky said “Distillery: What do you care, you’re not getting any” Brilliant! I am hooked.

I have always known that Ian and I share a similar view on whisky collecting and limited releases kept high in price or created just for the collectors market- basically we don’t like it. You can read my viewpoint in this earlier post. And he pushes this point home at the beginning of the book.

As I mentioned, the book is a nice size to flick through, the bottles are big and clear on each left hand page for ease of visual indexing and the descriptions are short, punchy and to the point. There are the odd detailed entires scattered here and there about production and maturation, but they certainly do not take centre stage- instead, the book is a fun and lighthearted collection of annectotes peppered with facts. It’s Ian’s blunt, no nonsense approach that helps make this book a welcome addition to my shelf. Oh, and the honesty- for example when reviewing the German whisky Slyrs, Ian happily admits that having not been to the distillery, he looked up all the notes online and says “So, apart from the fact I’ve tried it and you almost certainly haven’t, with a few minutes research you could know as much as I do. No need to bother though, just read the rest of this entry for enlightenment.”. Why can’t more whisky books be like this?

The book is available from Amazon from July 5th but you can pre order it here. And I suggest you do. This is just the kind of reference book I would have loved to write, but given my inability to self-edit my version would surely be filled with profanity. Not sure that would sell so well as I suspect Ian’s will.

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Title: 101 World Whiskies to try before you die
Publisher: Hachette Scotland
Available: July 5th
Pre order: Amazon
Price:£12.99
Format: Hardback, ebook
Worth it: hell yeah

 
2 Comments

Posted by on June 15, 2012 in Reviews

 

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New for old – Glen Garioch 12 & Founders Reserve

A man, who was being interviewed on BBC radio last week, was trying to convince the presenter, and in turn the listeners, that Doric is a language. This started a bit of a debate between my fellow scots, one that none of us have really gotten to the bottom of yet, but the general consensus was that Doric is a dialect. Far from being linguists, we did have good (or so we thought) arguments to secure each point of view.

For those who are lost with the paragraph above, Doric is spoken in the north east of Scotland, particular around the Aberdeen area typically starting north of Montrose and over to Forfar. I have always been aware of it, with phrases like “fit like” meaning “how are you” to which you might answer “nae bad like” but to me this has always just been a twist on the English, almost a lazy way round the words. Just to confuse thing a bit further, there are words used in this part of the world that even a Scot is baffled by, neither Scots or Gaelic words like “loon” and “quine” which translates to boy and girl. My main argument was that if you converse with a local of this area, they may use some words of the Doric dialect, but the rest of the sentence is made up of English and therefore if it was a language, why would it all not be incomprehensible? I still stand by my point- its a dialect, twisted around some original words, mixed with English and old Scots.

Anyway, why am I telling you this? Well, as you are aware, I recently visited the distillery of Glen Garioch (Geerie) in the town of Old Meldrum. Smack bang as it is in the centre of Doric speaking folk, it can be troublesome to understand a local if you stop for directions, but I got by. Also, this week I was sent some whisky from them. The 1994, 1991 and 1986 I review here, but it is the Founders reserve and the 12 year old I am reviewing now.

Glen Garioch used to malt it’s own barley, over four enormous floors and employed a team of 25 in doing so, but after a short period of closure (1994-1997) they (Suntory) decided not to reinstate the maltings and instead use central maltings. These two reviewed expressions are post reopening.

Glen Garioch Founders Reserve

No age statement (8-10yrs) 

48% ABV non chill filtered

Ex-bourbon maturation

Appearance: Bright gold with warm straw

Nose: Honey and golden syrup backed by lots of rich vanilla and earthy peat. Light toffee and cherry fruit notes overall provides a sweet complex, and very approachable nose.

Palate: Soft toffee and candied fruits quickly give way to earthy peat, spiced wood and hard caramel. The power of the 48% is well integrated, helping the sweetness dry slightly to macadamia nut.

Finish: light spice, vanilla and nutty wood.

Stick to this being uncut, the addition of water seems to drop the sweetness out altogether and delivers a soapy note on the nose.

Glen Garioch 12 year old

48% ABV non chill filtration

Aged in ex bourbon and ex sherry.

Appearance: Rose gold with polished bronze

Nose: Rich in caramel and vanilla fudge with jammy fruit notes of greengage and very light sulphur drying the nose towards the end. Well integrated orange oil polished oak throughout.

Palate: Rich and full with creamy vanilla, rounded cooked fruits and a lifting peat flavour which dances through the spiced wood.

Finish: Perhaps fades a little too quickly but still very enjoyable.

Again, like the Founders Reserve, it just doesn’t take water well I found, flattening the fruit and delivering a bitter copper note like I had licked a 2p piece!

 
2 Comments

Posted by on May 21, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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