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Glen Garioch 1995 – Last of the floor maltings

Last summer I spent a rather pleasant couple of days in the village of Old Meldrum, not far from Aberdeen airpoirt where the Glen Garioch distillery is situated. In fact, if you read that review you will discover that Old Meldum IS the ditillery, such is the design of the village. And it was at this visit that I was fortunate enough to sample some of the last vintages to be made using the original floor maltings before closing them down (and the distillery itself for a short while) at the end of 1995. When the distillery did eventually re-open, sadly the decision had been made to not used the malting floor again and hence a change in style was born. The vintages made available to me whislt on my visit were the 1994, 1991 and 1986 and all wondeful indeed. I knew there was one last release to come though, the final bottling of whisky which had been malted at the distillery, the 1995 vintage and it was this weekend past,at Londons Whisky Live ,  that I had the chance to sample this little bit of history having missed out on the press release samples last year for some reason.

Glen Garioch 1995 vintage Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Ex-Bourbon Cask

55.3% abvggrob_1995

Non Chill Filtered

Distilled 1995 bottled 2012

RRP £49.95

Appearance: Warm white gold

Nose: Vanilla sugar, varm wine gums and a malt backbone. some good wood structure hidden in there also. With water, a warm cereal note emerges with aple blossom and a hint of carbolic soap under sliced fresh pear.

Palate: Chunky vanilla laden malt with cooked apple and a hint of peat smoke in the background which calms to allow a slightly menthol note.

Finish: Clean and fresh, a good amount of grip and spice with lingering soft peat smoke barley detectable and sweet fruity barley.

Summary: A very different style of Glen Garioch and if you are familair with the more redily available 12 year old and Founders Reserve, this may come as a shock. Gone are the rich red apple skins so prevenlant in those two expmples and in comes some well structured oak and light fruit. I’d struggle to identify this as a Garioch in a blind tasting, but then thats whats great about these releases, they are just different enough to warrant taking the time to seek them out and taste a little bit of the old style of distillery.

 

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Posted by on March 26, 2013 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Balblair 1996 Travel Retail release

Ahead of what will no doubt be a very busy week after The Whisky Exchange annual Whisky Show, I thought it best to try to review a few samples that have been sent to me before the pile on my desk becomes either out of date or a task too great for a mere man to tackle. Its been quite an active time of late with a number of brands releasing new expressions and talk of a few more in the near future. All great news for the industry as clearly there is a growing demand and with it a growing audience.

The first new release for review is from Balblair, one of my top rated malts and I recently reviewed a number of fabulous examples from the distillery here. This Travel Retail (duty free to those not in the trade) exclusive, which will replace the current 1995 release, comes in 1 litre bottles and will be available next month after its official launch at Tax Free World Association exhibition in Cannes (October 21-26).

As with all the Balblair range, the ’96 comes without chill filtration and at an ABV of 46% which helps maintain the depth of character, adding complexity to the spirit on both the nose and palate. The 1996 vintage was bottled in 2012 after spending its 16 years of maturation in ex-bourbon cask only.

Balblair Single Malt Whisky (Travel Retail exclusive) Vintage 1996

Non-chill filtered & Natural colouring 46% abv

Ex-Bourbon cask

£49.99 1 litre

Appearance: Pale straw with warm gold

Nose: Light honey with fresh butter undertones, coconut flesh surrounded by fresh summer red fruits, pear and candied lemon peel. A light dusting of nutmeg traces delicately through it all which offers a grounded note to the otherwise zesty fruit.

Palate: Immediately creamy and full in the mouth, bursting with richness and bright spices. Cinnamon takes over the nutmeg now but wave after wave of rich vanilla, orange blossom honey on buttered crumpets with calvados drizzled tarte tatin.

Finish: The spice lingers, but a cleansing citrus note, not too powerful, helps maintain the balance.

In summary, a splendid dram which showcases the maturation of the distillery’s typical releases to perfection. Underneath the rich aromas are all the classic signs of a well produced Balblair spirit and without any tampering, the 1996 will undoubtedly be a hit with frequent travellers. Now where is my passport?

 
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Posted by on September 30, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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The (almost) ultimate guide to whisky & food matching

I have been promising this for a while now, and every time I sit down and begin, something interrupts me.

So here it is, the Dramatic whisky guide to food matching with malt. Good timing actually, because most people will reach for a bottle at some point over the next two weeks, and I bet you it is after the meal, which is such a shame.

Lets start

Remember, the whole idea of a sherry at the beginning of a meal is to increase saliva, get the digestion juices flowing so to speak, so a dry or even salt/mineral whisky will do just that and lets face it- far tastier than sherry!

My choices this year for canapes at events have been things like:

Oak smoked brown trout

Wild mushroom tartlets

Poached quails egg with truffle dressing

Seared tuna with wasabi

Grilled chorizo and Scallop

crumbled parmesan and basil

All of the above are designed to enliven the palate with either spice, citrus or earth flavours and all can be underpinned with a similar whisky. I would always choose something which has been aged in virgin oak (not contained any other spirit prior) such as The Glenlivet 15 yr old French Oak Reserve with its lively spice notes and mineral finish or the Bunnahabhain Darach Ur (which means new wood in Gaelic) or Auchentoshan Classic which although is not from new wood, has light white peach notes (think peach Bellini) and compliments pastry and citrus well.

Soup

Always a tricky one to get people’s heads around, but actually, richer cream based soups or ones from roasted veggies work well with deeper malts.

Cullen Skink- tastes better than it sounds

Cullen Skink

Roasted red pepper

Mushroom

French onion

You can split these into two different style of malt: Creamy and rounded or rich and earthy. Both styles will actually work well with the above soups, but I also like using something with a citrus lift to cut through cream. Jura Superstition is ideal with creamier fish based soups such as Skink, and the light smoke lifts the dish wonderfully. Dalmore 15 and Glenfiddich 15 both work with those sweeter style or earthy soup such as the red pepper and carrot, giving subtle weight behind the richer flavours. The use of sherry cask with Dalmore helps bring rounded spice of mace and roasted fruit whilst the unique Solera system employed on the Glenfiddich 15 adds a similar richness and a deeper Christmas cake note without being to over sweet.

The main event

Now, I know its christmas, but the idea was to do this feature for any meal, or at least for a range of foods. Lets avoid turkey-please! and think about the main foodstuffs that we can enjoy here.

Deer - but worth it

Roast chicken, mash and rich gravy

Steak, chips and red wine jus

Halibut with cream sauce and green beans

Venison, spinach and redcurrent jus

Stir fry vegetables chilli seasoned with soy

There are a number of drams to choose from , but he main meal is often the richest, even in terms of a fish dish there is normally a heavier butter or cream combination. Even the stir fry has a heady character with the soy and chili so what to choose? Well, the white dishes (chicken and fish) I would grab a bottle of Scapa 16, Glenrothes Select Reserve or Old Pulteny 17 year old (my personal favourite) all are great drams with a little salty bite and light citrus backbone and light warming vanilla in contrast. Most of the Glentrothes range will offer this but less salty and more nutty that the other two. For the meat dishes, go bold- Aberlour A’Bunadh, Glenlivet 18, Fettercairn Fior or Springbank 15 all offer good body with different traits such as a slight olive note to the Springbank, or the rich leather and polished wood of the a’Bunadh. For the stir fry with chilli, grab the Springbank again, or maybe even a Bladnoch Distiller Choice or a Highland Park 12 to cut through the heat but compliment the soy.

Sticky and Sweet

And onto the puddings. Again, the variety of desserts to choose from are vast, cold ice cream, light lemon posset, or sticky toffee pudding? Well, I like to compliment any type of dessert with a nutty orange malt, something that simply crates a warm caramel feel that basically any sweet taste will work well with.

Oh my sweet

Balvenie Signature with its famed house style of honey and rich spice or Dalmore 18 year oldGlenfiddich 21 with

its delicious rum cask finish, Glengoyne 17, Yamazaki 18 or Auchentoshan Three Wood to really get the sweet spices going.

 

 

Cheese and the rest (coffee if you must )

Cheese, seems like we only ever tried to match it with port and wine…but hold on, surely this is actually one of the better matches for whisky? all that cream, lactose, dairy fats (yup, there isn’t much that’s good about it other than the taste!) is crying out for something with  good alcohol content to rinse the palate and clean the taste buds. Enter stage left-WHISKY!

insert cheesy caption here...

Scottish blue- Ardbeg Uigeadail, Talisker 10, Old Pulteney 12

Mature Cheddar Clynelish 14, Glenlivet 16 , Balvenie Single Barrel 15

Goats (old)- Aberlour 10, Royal Lochnagar 12, Macallan 10 fine oak

Hard ewes cheese- Highland Park 12, Glen Ord 12 , Bowmore 10

And there are even some I would recommend to cover all of the above- Balvenie 17 Peated cask whilst it is still available, Glemorangie Quinta Ruban (port finish) and Whyte & Mackay 22 yr old (yes I know- but have you tried it? its awesome!)

Now, the last remaining pairing would be whilst you sit back and try to digest your own body weight- but you still can’t help reaching over for the box of Charbonnel et Walker chocolates you were given from Santa… and it would be foolish of me to divulge the amazing pairings that’s work here, so why not sign up for some of the Dramatic Whisky - Whisky and Chocolate classes held throughout January, February and March in London and get first hand experience of this divine combination - you could cycle there to work off the Christmas excess!

 

 
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Posted by on December 21, 2011 in tasting

 

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