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You can always count on a woman.

I have never been one to read much, and when I do, it tends to be historical, factual stuff. Avoiding politics and religion I have always been fascinated by those around us (and past) that have made a mark on the world, left a legacy or even a scratch in the dirt deep enough for others to see. At one point I really got into Einstein and the chaos theory then the discovery and introduction of LSD into society before realising it was all a bit too chaotic and mind-bending to understand- so ditched those and stuck to biographies such as Oliver Reed and Hunter S Thomson both of which turned out to be twisted and chaotic without science to justify it.

Olly, not a lover of water.

We forget, or certainly I do, that these people must have been then, as they are now, viewed with great reverence and awe. Giants amongst the little people, living out lives just as they wanted to, bouncing from one mishap or fall to the next but always seemingly able to overcome and conquer. Although, neither Hunter nor Oliver managed to overcome (but did manufacture) their eventual end, both of which fell victim to their chosen way of life.

The stories retold in these and similar books about the lives led of these and many other “idols” are countless and each more eye-popping than the last.

But what of the unsung heroes, those out of the lime-light. The everyday people who encounter a hurdle, a hardship, a loss and yet bounce back, battle on and show what they are really made of? It happens all around us, every day in every walk of life, but just because it’s not well publicised or they are not a prominent figure in our society doesn’t make them any less special.

This train of thought came about after a rather rare opportunity was offered to me. Last week, to mark the launch of a very limited run of 13 yr old single cask Glenrothes whisky and the centenary of the loss of the Titanic on the 15th April 1912, a very select few were invited to the offices of Berry Bros & Rudd.

Having traded from its St James street offices since 1698, originally as a coffee house, which was seen as such a luxurious item and a stimulant, that it was reserved for male gentry only. Oh how times change! They moved on to wines and spirits as they grew but I am not about to go into all the history of this company as it vast and detailed You can read more about it here.

Ronnie Cox - style.

The ambassador for Berry’s heritage brands such as Cutty Sark, The Glenrothes, The King’s Ginger and No.3 Gin is Mr Ronnie Cox. If ever you get the chance to meet him, and he seems omnipresent, then you will instantly realise why this gent of gents is so perfect in this role. Always in a bit of tweed, immaculately turned out and the most perfect of hosts- all this despite his Dundonian origins. Whilst recalling an anecdote about the offices, Ronnie said he had asked one of the directors to accompany him whilst he walked the tour of the building, just to ensure he had all his facts correct. The tour normally lasts 90 mins, but two hours later the two men where still at the starting point, the parlour, which happens to be the oldest room in the building. Modest in its size it may be, but bountiful in history it certainly was and after those two hours, only two walls in the parlour had been discussed. I suggest a tour of the offices soon- just make sure you have nothing else to do that day!

As wine and spirit merchants, BBR attracted high profile clients and serviced many of the fashionable houses around St James and Mayfair. Holding casks of wine, cognac and whisky for the household butler (or bottler which is where the term originates) to fill up into vessels and decanters and return to the houses. They also did a roaring trade overseas, especially America and it was the Cutty Sark that held the most prestigious of positions in the company, often referred to as “Uncle Sark” as it helped bank-role the wine side of the business on many an occasion such was its popularity. Although the wine team probably like to keep that quiet.

The company had two connections to the Titanic and its fateful maiden voyage. On the 17th of April 1912 the company received a letter from the White Star Line detailing the loss of 69 cases of their wines and whiskies which were aboard the ship which had foundered two days earlier. A framed copy of this letter still hangs upon the wall of Berry Bros. & Rudd’s famous London shop at No.3 St James’s Street. A second, and slightly more precious cargo was Lady Rothes, the Countess of Rothes which is the town where The Glenrothes is distilled.

Lady Rothes- the "plucky little Countess"

During the ships fateful striking of the ice and the following hours, it seems Lady Rothes showed what she (and no doubt many of the women of the time) was made of. Here is an extract from a member of staff from the Titanic, recalling her valour- ‘There was a woman in my boat. She was the Countess of Rothes. I was one of those who was ordered to man the boats, and my place was in No. 8 boat. There were thirty-five of us in that boat, mostly women, but some men along with them. I was in command, but I had to row and I wanted someone at the tiller. When I saw the way she was carrying herself and heard the quiet, determined was she spoke to the others, I knew she was more of a man than any we had on board, and I put her in command. I put her at the tiller, and she was at the tiller when the Carpathis came along five hours later.’ Several ladies proved themselves to be efficient oarswomen“.**

There are countless tales of valour from that day and obvious woe at the losses, but of course the effect of the sinking had far more reach than perhaps we stop to consider. We all know the cry of “women and children first” in a disaster situation, but think about this a bit more. Of the 2229 people on board (crew and passengers) only 713 survived in total. 215 were crew and 23 of that crew were female. clearly they knew the ship and how to get off. Of the 498 passengers who made it, only 146 were men. Imagine how many widowed wives and fatherless children arrived in America, with everything they owned lost at sea and no male to help work to rebuild heir life.

As we sat in the directors dining room, we were entertained by Amy Sell, a historian from FindMyPast.co.uk who clearly had the upmost respect for the subject. As Amy relayed stories about the survivors and the less fortunate, we were given a glass of The Glenrothes Titanic to raise in their honour.

After the toast, we were expertly guided through the tasting by Douglas Mcivor of BBR who selected the cask that ended up in the bottles before us. A few points about the whisky. Firstly, it is the first Glenrothes to be bottled and labelled outside the globe bottles which are the house style. This instead was a clear nod back to the bottles that would have been sunk with the Titanic and in fact the label is as close as possible in style to the “Edwardian” label used at the time with BBR. It is from a 13 yr old, single cask using an ex-Olorosso sherry, bottled at 46% ABV and is non chill filtered. The release is of only 100 bottle and has already sold out!

The Glenrothes Titanic Limited Release

46% abv Non-Chill Filtered single cask

Appearance: Golden with virgin olive oil tones.

Nose: Rich vanilla and deep rounded citrus of candied lemon and dried fruit. Yellow zest keep it light before further fig/date aromas and a warm coffee elements emerge.

Palate: Creamy vanilla, deep fruits again with an oily, almost liquorice edge and warm brazil nut. Warm spice of mace and black pepper with balanced tannins.

Finish: Continues with a deeper coffee and brazil nut with liquorice root.

** extract from encyclopedia titanica

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Posted by on April 13, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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Return of the red-eye.

Glasgow, despite me not being born there, has always seemed quite homely to me. I moved there in 1996 from Dundee to find more interesting work and a richer gene pool. Anyone who knows the comedian Frankie Boyle will know that Dundee really is a place most people want to leave as soon as they can. In fairness, it’s vastly improved since then and even has an airport which flies direct to London City, but it’s too expensive if you ask a Dundonian.

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Frankie says it's shit

Running a number of bars and restaurants in Glasgow made the city feel more homely to me. It didn’t take long to have a wide a varied crowd of friends in the industry and we all seemed to move in the same circles making Glasgow almost village like at times. Areas such as Byres road with Ashton lane almost replicating the high street of a hamlet or the Merchant city with its heady mix of the pink pound and the cutting edge cool had created pockets of society who were a kind of nomadic herd. Find yourself at a loose end at any time of the day or night and you just needed to wander into one of these areas to catch up with a pal. Remember, SMS was in its infancy back then.
It helps that the Glaswegians are generally such a social and welcoming bunch. Well, as long as you are not wearing the wrong football colours on a Saturday night in Sauchiehall Street. Not like Edinburgh which is all old money and law, Glasgow was built by its people, for it’s people and hasn’t lost sight of its hard working-class roots.

It had been 8 years since I had been “home”, mostly due to the fact that every time I travelled back to Scotland I headed to see the folks on the east cost and merely drove past the outskirts of Glasgow on the way but this time I had a couple of meetings to attend and a distillery to visit.
I flew from Luton, after grabbing an early train from London. I am not actually sure what train it was, or at what time because I didn’t actually wake up until the seatbelt sign went out but I arrived in Glasgow around 9am.

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Not quite the fanny-magnet I was hoping for.

Car hire, like most things we see advertised, seems such an easy task. The families on the billboards and leaflets are always smiling into the yet uncharted distance with their shiny wee hire car, a simple, no hassle experience to aid your onward journey. That might be the case in the movies and the world of advertising, but when you forget a couple of so called “vital” bits of info, it can turn out quite farcical. For example: you must pay a deposit by the same card you booked the car with. Oops, don’t have that with me. And you can pay cash? No, of course not, that would be too simple. Anyway, after an hour of working on a solution, shifting money around bank accounts and generally loosing the will to drive anywhere other than back to bed, I had my car. During the process, there was a calming influence that kept my temper at bay, that being the desk clerk repeatedly sipping from a bottle of irn-bru. Ah, it was indeed good to be back.

I used to drive on the M8 every day into work and its funny how things from the past can sit in your memory with out you realising it. If you had asked me to describe the journey from the airport to the centre, I would have struggled, but like some kind of tin clad homing pigeon, there I was, without hesitation driving in all the right lanes, indicating without realising it and turning off at the correct junctions straight into Glasgow.

It was an hour till my meeting so I parked up and took a wander. It’s quite amazing to see how huge areas of the city have been regenerated and look all shiny and inviting. It was always a great place to shop, but the areas which had all the good shops were little retail island in amongst a sea of run down tenements, derelict offices and gravel car parks. Now it seemed the link between the top end designer shops and the high street had been bridged by mid end fashion houses, independent retailers and generally quite smart shop fronts. It was raining though, so the council failed on improving that part.

After my meeting it was a short drive to Auchentoshan. Despite living in Glasgow for a long time, I never did make it out to the distillery, shameful I know! But that meant I was looking forward to it all the more. “Auchie” has always sat in a strange place for me, not just georaphically, but also in my mind. A lowland malt, perhaps by geography only as the core range has some decidedly weightier styles than a lowland. But who cares? Regional selection is dead. The whisky maps should all be burned and fuelled with English money that drew the highland line in the first place. I always chuckled when I read the description of Auchentoshan “ideally located between the poetic banks of Loch Lomond and the bustling metropolis that is Glasgow” eh? It’s at the end of the Erskin bridge, next to a council estate on the Great Western Road. It couldn’t be more “Glasgow” if I tried. Gotta love a bit of PR spin though. It is in fact so close to Glasgow that it was bombed during the war! That was the second world war, not a Rangers-Celtic derby.

In fairness, it probably did seem quite rural when it was built in the early 1800′s (although there is evidence of it being much earlier) and the name Auchentoshan means “corner of the field” in the Scots tongue, but it’s location today at least makes it one of the more accessible distilleries being only about 20 minutes drive from the airport.

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You should see the T-shirt you get at the end of this lot!

The distillery offers a number of different tours for people to choose from, catering for all levels of whisky knowledge and I was privileged to be given a personal tour of the facilities. A bit more in depth than a standard tour but of course I am not about to get all geeky about spirit cuts and wash temperatures here. Sorry to disappoint. It’s a wonderful smell when approaching the distillery, that rich malty note in the air, mingled with rain of course, and the sight of the warehouses and still house which are nestled closely together at the base of a sloping valley on the banks of the Clyde. Despite its fame, Auchentoshan remains fairly small in it’s operation although it’s single set of three stills and one mash tun are now working 7 days a week to keep up with the demand and is turning out close to 2 million litres per annum, surely set to increase further in the near future.

It is well known that Auchentoshan distill three times, creating a light, floral new make spirit with plenty of green notes and sweeter malt tones. What is perhaps less well known is that Auchie uses water from a loch, not a spring. In fact, it is the same water supply that Glasgow receives its tap water from, albeit from a direct pipe rather than the aged Victorian lead system no doubt still rife beneath the adjacent city. It does raise the question regarding distillers banging on about water quality and how vital it is for purity. Surely the impurities are boiled off? Surely all of Scotland’s water, loch or spring, has passed through similar paths. Most of the Scottish lochs are actual fed by any number of springs, and there is less chance of concentrated sheep piss or a dead cow lying in the middle of a loch. Maybe a question to raise with a distiller at your next visit?

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The perfect place for a relaxed dram.

I loved the simple, no bullshit approach of the whole distillery. A really warm welcome from all the staff, great visual aids all around the facility and a lovely little visitors centre and lounge area to relax in. Its a pity they don’t see more footfall as it is not part of the Whisky trail, but look, let’s face it, if you want to visit Scotland and get a good idea of its people, land and heritage, you can’t go far wrong than a flight to Glasgow, a drive to the distillery then onto the west coast, which, despite me being an east coaster, is far more awe inspiring.

After the tour, we got down to some tasting delights and again, I was privy to a rather select range as I had tasted the core range many number of times. I also had the car, so it was three tiny wee tastes and a gallon of water (after, not with)
First up was the Auchentoshan Valinch a non chill filtered cask strength (57.5%) youthful dram from first fill ex-bourbon. Most probably between 7-8 years old. It was a welcome start, with it’s nose showing the lightness of the new make, even at this strength and gorgeous fruity notes of banana, Creme caramel and nutty cream and the palate showed the same but a bit more deeper fruits as if warmed with spice. Having been drawn straight from the cask, (a valinch is the oversized pipette that draws samples from a cask) the bottling held evidence of its previous container with a fair amount of charcoal residue at the base of the bottle.

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Next was the 1996 of which I was informed there are only 41 bottles remaining! Again, a cask strength whisky (57.1) and non-chill filtered and from first fill hogshead cask. This particular example was distilled in 1996 and bottled in Dec 2011. It truly was bursting with power and elegance as masses of rich spice and liquorice battled side by side with floral overtones and a creamy, almost oily mouthfeel.

20120306-131135.jpgThe last dram of the session was a beauty. An 18 yr old at cask strength again. still with its old label rather than the newer, and might I say really stylish one. Immediately surprising was the light nose. Complex yes, with rich leather, nutty balance and faint citrus but still that wonderfully light and floral element remained from the new make. Testimony here that triple distillation really does shine through in character, even after all these years in such a fruit driven vessel. I really do wish I had stayed longer and had arranged for alternative transport as I am sure the day could have ended with a longer seat at the bar. However, I didn’t go back empty handed as I managed to get some fresh malted barley and freshly ground grist to use in my tastings. The trouble was, both were in screw top containers and resembled bomb making equipment. How on earth was I getting this through airport security?

Despite giving myself an extra hour to negotiate this potential hurdle, it turned out that I needn’t have bothered. Upon arriving at security I removed both vessels from my hand luggage and placed them in the black tray along with my coat etc. Immediately it raise a question from the security officer.
“What’s that.” he said in a cold, secure manner.
“Malt and grist” I replied, ready o further explain.
“Oh” he nodded “Right”
At this point, he turned round to the x-ray operator and repeated my exact words which were met with an affirmative nod. My bag passed through and without a further word I was passed security.

Amazing. You can’t take a bottle of sealed scotch through security, but you can take the component parts required to make it through no bother- and the grist looked more like anthrax spores!
It did give me more time to browse duty free and the bar- which despite being a Weatherspoons actually hand a fabulous range of malts on offer.

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So for all those years I have been away from Glasgow, it seems I have taken a wee part of it away with me this time in more ways than one.

 
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Posted by on March 6, 2012 in tasting

 

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