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Deanston 1974 – Almost as old as me and holding up better.

On a recent trip back to Scotland I managed to squeeze a quick visit to Glengoyne into my crazy schedule and as always it was a pleasure, but I was also keen to go somewhere I had never been.  Luckily for me Deanston was not too far from where I was based for the week and despite the fact I have probably driven past the end of the road thousands of times before, this would be my first “official” visit. The visitor center only opened last year though so I can be forgiven.  I wrote before about the distillery from my research and reviewed the 12 Year old here but this time I wanted to have a look around and get hold of some of the distillery releases.

deanstonlogo

The distillery might not be in the running for “prettiest” in Scotland, but just like a bottle of whisky, it’s whats inside that counts and not only is the story of Deanston interesting, but the welcome is well worth seeking out. The visitor center is recently opened and it is clear to see that everyone involved is very proud indeed. Being met by Peter Semple, visitors and facilities manager we avoided the normal tour and headed straight for the heart of the distillery, stopping off prior to get an insight into the social history of the once cotton mill turned whisky distillery.

There were two particular whiskies that I had heard were available from the distillery which are not seen that often and I was keen to sit down with Peter and run through them. The first being a Spanish Oak release and the second, a 1974 bottling which, as it is the year of my birth is always of interest to me. Sadly, Peters hospitality did not stretch as far as to donate a bottle to my birthday fund, but at £800 a bottle, you cant blame him.

The first to review was the Spanish Oak- a 19 year old whisky matured first in ex American Bourbon cask for 11 years before spending a further 8 year in Spanish cask, namely Gonzalez Byass Lapanto brandy cask. This solera matured brandy is of 15 years or older and is the only brandy produced in Jerez.

Deanston Single Malt Scotch Whisky “Spanish Oak”

deanso

19 years old

Non Chill Filtered

Cask Strength 57.4% abv

Appearance: Bright copper and warm gold

Nose: Dark skinned fruit and light linseed oil start the proceedings with a drying note of struck match in the background. Brandy butter over red apple core with warming spices of mace, clove and cinnamon. Rich honey becomes toffee like but remains in check with a base of forest fruit compote.

Palate: Grippy at first, a teardrop of water helped to calm the assertive spice and phosphorous elements which became plummy and sweet like stewed fruits of prune, blackcurrant and cherry pie. An earthy spice with sweetness such as liquorice root maintained balance.

Finish: Earthy spice of sweet liquorice root takes hold with blackcurrants on dry toast to the end.

Deanston Single Malt Scotch Whisky 1974

deanston74

37 years old

Non Chill Filtered

50.3% abv

Ex Olorosso Sherry Cask

Appearance: Polished bronze and rose gold

Nose: Chicory, coffee essence and toffee begin this rich, aromatic nose before baked apple with molasses drizzle come in. The fruity element remains but becomes deeper and turns to blackcurrant, cassis, cherry and honey. Towards the end or the lingering scent, a lifting waft of tea-tree honey helps balance the richness.

Palate: A bold start with gripping spices and edgy mineral notes before turning sweet with baked apple. It takes a little time to calm and allow the honey and toffee element to speak for a short while before the spices run riot again. Oily, tingling and spiking throughout the fruity mid palate this could be seen as a challenging whisky perhaps, but in a great way. Fruit, nut, honey and spice- its all in there.

Finish: Turning nutty with a slightly tarry note with coffee bitter edge. The lingering palate never seems to fade. Outstanding.

Summary: If the friendliness of this particularly “new” distillery wasn’t enough to make you stop and say hello- then both these drams waiting for you at the end will surely clinch it. Both offering up something totally different between them and a far cry from the standard Deanston 12 year old and the house style we might expect. I certainly loved both of them and hope Peter remembers my birthday on July 30th ;)

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Posted by on March 5, 2013 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Deanston 12 yr old Single Malt – Spinning a good yarn.

I’m not one for the normal marketing bullshit as you may well know. Marketing, in the most part is needed in this fast-moving world of information but of course this sometimes leads to an added spin to try to lift a brand image higher out of the pool of competition. With this in mind, I was delighted to receive a bottle of Deanston 12 year old single malt at the Dramatic Whisky offices.

The story is simple,clear and the product speaks for itself. This whisky does not have its roots in the by-gone eras of whisky history, no tales of bootlegging and illegal stills hidden amongst glen and atop Munros, but is born from a passion (and business mind) to produce a good product from the off.

The Deanston distillery was, unlike many others in Scotland, not built to distill whisky. In 1781, a cotton mill was built on the river Teith which is about 8 miles from Stirling in the central belt of Scotland. The location at the time was key as shipping along the busy canal that ran from Glasgow to Edinburgh would no doubt aid distribution at the time. Continuing as a cotton mill until the mid 1900′s and the decline in the cotton trade the decision was taken to switch the mill over to a distillery in 1965 to capture the ever increasing demand for whisky. However, like most good things, it didn’t all run so smoothly and in 1983, as the sales in whisky dropped, the distillery was mothballed until its acquisition by Burns Stewart Distillers in 1990 and production begins again. The demand for whisky was on the increase once more and Deanston was a soughtafter by many leading blends, as well as Burns Stewart’s own Scottish Leader blend.

Powered by its own hydro-electric plant using water from the Tieth, Denston actually produce enough power to give back a proportion to the National Grid, making its production very green indeed. Couple this with the fact that Deanston only use Scottish products and its barley is certified organic, this low impact whisky is unique amongst other whisky producers. And it does not stop there as thankfully, the non-chill filtered, non coloured whisky found inside its attractive yet simple packaging is at a chewy 46.3% ABV helping retain as much of the natural feel of the dram.

The 12 year old is the first in the range of whiskies produced, again showing that time and patience, along with some canny knowledge and the best ingredients is all you really need to produce something great.

Deanston 12 year old Single Malt Whisky

Non-Chill Filtered

46.3% abvDeanston_12yrs_with_carton

No added colour

American ex-Bourbon cask

RRP. £29.65

Appearance: Honey gold with bright yellow

Nose: Light lemon curd, peeled granny smith apple and malty richness followed by soft vanilla and buttery rich cream. and honeysuckle.

Palate: The strength is well masked with generous white fleshed fruits and rich vanilla turning to caramel. Chewy malt and light oaky-wood spice help maintain a well-rounded and complex taste for its age.

Finish: A touch drying, but still plenty of character with malt lasting all the way through the thick buttery fruit palate.

Summary: A very easy drinking dram indeed. Just enough of all the right component parts to satisfy most palates and certainly one to always have to hand.

 
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Posted by on January 16, 2013 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Built to last- Balvenie tun 1401 and Church’s (shoes)

There are things in life you purchase or do and you just know you made the right choice. You might have deliberated for quite some time before making the steps to create it or purchase it, but at the completion, you know it was worth it.

On a recent trip to Edinburgh, A friend of mine took me through the entire production history of Church’s shoes, an item I have long promised myself. They are not just shoes, they are the best shoes made in the world and the last remaining brand to be fully made in the UK. Although they are owned by Prada, the production remains in Northampton and none of the process is outsourced, unlike many of the other UK luxury shoe brands- even my beloved Grensons have part of the build take place in other countries.

Church’s was founded in 1873 by Thomas Church and his three sons Alfred, William and Thomas Jr., who could count on family experience in the production of handmade men’s shoes dating back to 1675. They were pioneers in shoemaking, actually creating the first pair of “left” and “right” shaped shoes and “in six widths in every conceivable style and material”

It takes over 8 weeks to create a pair of mens shoes, with over 250 manual operations taking place before it leaves the factory. A craft approach to the shoes which delivers exceptional quality and ever changing innovation.

I had to try a few pairs on to “experience” the history- and of course the pair I instantly took a liking to were the most expensive! The Shannon, in burgundy, made with horse leather….if it wasn’t for the £545 price tag, I would be wearing them now as I type this. All good things come to those who wait (and my friend does offer an amazing discount!).

If those shoes were in my possession now, I would have also worn them to the Savoy hotel today to taste the latest batch of the tun 1401 release from Balvenie.

The ‘tun’ is a marrying tank into which selected casks are emptied and held for a short period to integrate before being bottled, this being the 5th release. The first batch was released just at the distillery, the second made it on to the UK domestic market whilst Batch 3 hopped over to the USA and number 4 was only available in Travel Retail (Duty Free). The tun holds around 2000 litres so each release is quite limited and of course, each differs. This latest was from just 9 selected casks, 4 ex sherry butts and 5 ex bourbon. Each cask is hand pumped into the tun, using an original cast hand pump which is reputed to have been used by William Grant himself. It really doesn’t get much more authentic than this- the innovative ideas of the master distiller David Stewart connecting with the tradition and history of the distillery.

David, who is approaching his 50th year at Balvenie, and is the longest serving distiller at any Scottish (or the world) distillery, was making a rare appearance to discuss his selection process and final marrying of the 9 casks, the oldest of which was from 1966 with the rest from around the 70′s. Within this latest batch were whiskies between 21 to 46 years old. David is a pioneer of whisky and was in fact the individual who started to use sequential maturation in different wood (shifting whisky from one cask to the next to enhance flavour). A common practice these day is every distillery in the world, but before David had brought this innovation, it was unheard of – like left and right shoes!

Its all about hand crafting, personal selecting, careful nurturing and holding the whole process in house to ensure consistency and quality control. Fortunately, this bottle of skilfully crafted whisky will retail for £161, thats nearly three and a half bottles per pair of Church’s…bargain! If only I didn’t want both.

Balvenie tun 1401 Batch No.5

50.1% Non chill filtered

Appearance: Golden Copper with light virgin olive oil greenness.

Nose: Big honey, clove spice and trails of coca powder at first with the richness of the sherry butt coming through later. Lots of lively sappy wood and fresh fruits underpinned with rich citrus, cherry and molasses. Rolling around is an unusual (for Balvenie) waxy/carbolic notes with a floral element.

Palate: Huge chunks of spicy honey, rich cooked fruits and then a chocolate/coffee bitterness calms the sweetness to reveal those malty notes and a hint of smoke (some of the casks are old enough to show this historic character). Chewy wood notes of sweet maple and cedar.

Finish:Lingering sweetness of fruit perfectly balanced with bitter cocoa nibs and woody elements.

There are plenty of other similar ties with Church’s and whisky- like the use of oak to build the sole of the shoes, the continued innovation in technique, but above all its the craftsmanship and care that is put into producing each one. Something that will hopefully remain for a very long time. Or at least until I can afford them!

 
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Posted by on June 28, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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Dating by numbers- The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Whisky has always been a drink that brings people together, of that there is no doubt, and especially a drink to inspire conversation. We often imagine people gathered round a fire at the end of an evening, “chewing the fat” after a meal, recounting tales and anecdotes amongst friends. But what of more romantic encounters? As whisky becomes young again and catches the imagination of a whole new demographic, it seems to be found in more unusual circumstances.

Last week, I travelled to Edinburgh to host some tastings in the city – it certainly seemed strange flying back over the border with a suitcase full of whisky, but it gave me the chance to catch up with old friends and of course make new ones along the way. I met the boyfriend of a friend who was recalling (over a whisky) how they met. They were in fact both members of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, although they had actually met in the pub, they chose their first “date” to be at the society’s venue in Leith called The Vaults. Now, for those who do not know how the society operates, let me explain.

The SMWS purchase single casks from distilleries all over Scotland (and further afield) to bottle non-chill filtered and at cask strength in limited run to members. The bottles are not overly expensive and the society rooms in Edinburgh, of which there are two- the Vaults and Queens street, as well as in Farringdon in London, allow members to bring in up to three guests, enjoy a lunch perhaps or simply kick back with the papers in the relaxed surroundings and partake in a dram or two. There are also great meeting rooms to use and always something going on arranged by the society. I like it because it’s not stuffy, the bar staff are young and knowledgeable and for those of you who don’t like whisky (eh?) there is a fine wine list and fab beer selection too.

First timers may be a little confused as on glancing at the back bar it seems they only have one whisky on offer? But upon closer inspection, the society’s best asset comes into play. Every bottle is the same shape, green glass, tall with a slimmed waist and handsomely broad shoulders. The white label across the front has only a set of numbers, 17.23 for example, the first being the distillery the bottling came from and the second refers to the number of the cask the society has procured.   Below this, is the title of the whisky, names such as “Light blue touch-paper and retire” or ” Seaweed, sushi and Arbroath smokies” start to conjure up certain images that hopefully give an indication of the whisky’s character. Then below this, a large (and sometimes rambling) set of tasting notes describe, not only all the aromas and notes to expect, but in most cases will help build a picture in the mind of the whisky’s personality- a bit like a lonely hearts column. M 40, kind-hearted and generous with GSOH WLTM similar becomes “Starting off in a cottage in the morning clearing out the peat fire and end up in a rugby club with camphor muscle oil, hot and smokey – Russian caramel” (3.187 by the way!)   The green glass restricting the sight of the whisky’s colour, the uniformity of the bottles and the hidden distillery names all combine to mean you have to be tempted by what the whisky tastes like. Drop all your preconceived ideas and forget trying to recall all your own tasting notes - just be drawn in by the liquid and nothing else. Genius if you ask me because I have often held “blind” tastings where many people have remarked on the quality and taste of a whisky which upon revealing what it is, they are shocked to find it is something they would normally dismiss. The SMWS helps reintroduce whisky to even the most experienced of drinkers in a fun way. It breathes life into forgotten distilleries and with new outturn showcased in its monthly magazine, there is always something to tempt you. Interested? Memberships can be purchased here.

Anyway, where were we? Ah yes –  take this above ethos and apply it to dating as my friend did. By arranging the first date at The Vaults, she was being very clever indeed. Obviously they both liked whisky, so that was a bonus, but the clever thing here was, as they perused the menu of drams, they could get an indication of the others likes and dislikes without having to question – in fact,  as she blushingly recalled, there are even certain tasting tips that will help warm up the conversation. She pointed one out in particular from the list “Slip on the velvet robe, dig out your finest slippers and pay this dram a visit” . now, if you say that in a deep Cockney male voice, it might not have the same seductive properties of a softly spoken Edinburgh girl…but you get the idea. Reading through the collection of whisky titles, such as the two above will quickly let you get to grips with your date - don’t like sushi? mental note – next date is not Japanese…never been to Arbroath – who has?

So whisky “matching’ is not all about cheese, chocolate and canapes -( we do those here ) apparently it can pair people together as well.

Next month, Dramatic whisky are hosting a first - a Singles Night in association with Mutual Attraction, the select members dating site to see if this fire water can ignite some passion. Mutual Attraction was set up due to demand from city professionals and executives who were finding dating in London tough. The thought of having a photo online horrified them as did the notion they may have to spend their precious time hanging out at bars everynight. Mutual Attraction was born and the first thing they promised? Confidentiality and no photos on the web!

The event is open to non-members also so if you are in the mood for falling in love - even if it might just be with whisky, then book in here to join us.

 
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Posted by on June 11, 2012 in Reviews

 

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