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Glenmorangie Cask Masters. We decide.

It’s always a bit of a risk allowing someone else to shape the future of things, just look what happens to the X Factor when it goes to public voting! You just never know the outcome.

At least Glenmorangie, with their Cask Masters programme has started of with three exceptional “acts” to choose from – not a Rylan to be seen thank goodness.

I recently attended The Deck at the National Theatre to hear about the launch of this ever so ambitious idea. Dr Bill Lumsden, who oversees the whisky for both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg talked us through three differently finished Glenmorangie whiskies and explained that with the use of the internet, social media and tasting events the public can lodge a vote as to which whisky shall make it to the eventual commercial bottling. But it does not just end there. Not only will the liquid be chosen by the public, but also the bottle, the label, the name and event the market in which to first launch the new release. Brave indeed.

Over the next 18 months, you too can help shape the future of this dram by logging onto www.glenmorangie.com/caskmasters. The final whisky will be released towards the latter part of 2014.

GLENMORANGIE

Dr Bill Lumsden explained:

“This is a very bold move for us – for years we have listened to fans of the brand and their views and reactions to the whiskies we have introduced.

“Now it’s their turn to become truly involved and I hope as many whisky aficionados as possible around the world will be able to join in and enjoy each stage of this exciting 18 month journey.

“We have crafted three rare whiskies for fans to choose from and those participating will be able to follow the process and interact online.”

With a few tasting notes already up on the website to help guide along those who may be new to the world of whisky, I thought I would add my own. The three chosen casks we tried at the event are not yet finished, but are close enough to give you an idea of the final character- It was clear that the good Dr had a favourite amongst the three, coughing behind clenched fist a barley audible “C” but the final decision is now out of his hands altogether. Over to us.

Sample “A”cask a

A 15 year old Glenmorangie at 46% ABV rested for 10 years in American ex-Bourbon cask to be transferred to an ex Grand Cru Burgundy cask for the last 5 years and without giving too much away, Dr Lumsden mentioned Cotes de Nuit to help narrow down the general area.

Appearance: Pale gold with warm orange

Nose: fruity to start with a dry-ish mineral note and floral element before turning into what is normally associated with a well aged Point Noir- that typical farmyard smell, mushroom, truffle oil and earthy tones. The nose is lifted with the appearance of orange oil before turning deeper into Kirsh.

Palate: Creamy and rich with spices of mace, vanilla and orange polish on old wood. An autumnal taste helps link it back to the elements found on the nose.

Sample “B”cask b

Again, this sample is around 15 years old, 46% ABV and for its first 9 years, American ex-bourbon cask was its home before being decanted for a further 6 years into an ex Bordeaux cask. This time we were given a bigger hint as to its previous contents- Chateau Montrose no less!

Appearance: Russet apple and bronze.

Nose: Another fruity start but this time it remains. Red fruits and deep citrus, Pencil shavings, Plums and apricot all in attendance with a lighter floral note that seems to drift between honeysuckle and eucalyptus leaf.

Palate: Soft grassy, floral elements and spiced wood, the delicate balance of this whisky tips between the two sides with ease drawing in on the classic Glenmorangie DNA and the borrowed character of a deep mature claret. Dry spice of white pepper comes towards the finish but is accompanied with stone fruits and light cedar wood.

Sample “C”
cask c

An increase in age over the previous samples, this 18 year old 46% ABV example has been finished in an ex-Manzanilla cask. We were not given the exact timings with this one.

Appearance: Mid gold with copper.

Nose: Struck match, butter and honeysuckle right at the fore developing a salty olive note as one might expect from the cask. Linseed oil, toffee and orange peel develop later but its all about that light sherry influenced base.

Palate: Immediately sweet, then dries with brine and olive leaf. New-buck leather and suede over cherry wood and walnuts. Its a rather strangely welcoming taste, umami if you like. switching all the time between fruity floral and salt wood. Complex and interesting, a departure from the Glenmorangie style it certainly is and I can see why it has become a stand out for Bill.

Summary: Three outstandingly “unnecessarily well made” whiskies each with something very different to say. For me, sample C was just a little bit too far and I was drawn more toward B with its perfect fruit and floral notes. I liked A also, but not sure if I could settle down each time and not question it over and over again. Of course, my vote will only be one of many and this will certainly keep the interest high as we see this develop over the next 18 months. Just for the record, I voted for B, I did not ever vote for Rylan.

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Speyburn – Bradan Orach and Chocolates

A new arrival through my door this week was a bottle of Speyburn “Brandan Orach” (Golden Salmon for those not familiar with the Gaelic tongue). I’m often confused by the choice of name for whisky, and this one joins those ranks- Golden Salmon? Is it to be considered as an indicator of the whisky’s quality or taste as surely this is what the drinker is looking for? Will this bottle burst forth with fishy freshness or perhaps a whiff of fisherman’s friend?

Charbonnel’s amazing Banoffee Truffles.

Either way, It was destined to be used at a forthcoming tasting I was holding and would be paired with a selected Charbonnel et Walker chocolate. But which one was the question now posed. Stopping off at the Liverpool Street branch of this rather fine chocolatier, I obviously had to let the staff try a little before helping me select the right accompaniment and they seems to have little hesitation. With the main character of the whisky seemingly light and fruity we played around with some citrus lead chocolates before finally, as the caramel notes became apparent, I pointed at the Banoffee truffle chocolate saying “let’s try this one!”

Surprisingly, or perhaps not, it was an amazing combination. The bursting freshness of the whisky tamed somewhat by the sweet, buttery chocolate but at the same time the banana element of the truffle amplified the caramel and tropical fruit note that wasn’t immediately apparent upon first tasting the whisky on its own.

Safe to say, the gathered 25 guests were more than happy to be guinea-pigs at the tasting an hour later and all agreed that the combination was surprising and a perfect partnership.

Speyburn Bradan Orach

Single malt whisky 

No age statement

40% Alcohol

Appearance: Clear bright yellow gold.

Nose: rich note of malt new make and warm caramel, a high spirited start softened by toffee apple and lighter notes of unripe banana served on an oak stave.

Palate: Lively to begin with grippy tannic spice and assertive spirit before the slightly buttery apple and caramel strudel with banana parfait pops in.

Finish: Light and lively turns smooth and creamy with lingering buttery vanilla and toffee.

It’s not often I think about chilling whisky, but I reckon I might give this one a try. Popping it in the fridge for a few hours and getting it nice and cold might just be the perfect accompaniment to a summers day picnic in the park. With some banana loaf on the side of course – hey wait, maybe thats whats meant by the “golden salmon”? If you fancy trying some for yourself then you can buy it here.

 
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Posted by on August 16, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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Get your coat, you’ve pulled- The Naked Grouse

Mention the word “naked” to me, and you have my attention. But surprisingly this time, the word naked wasn’t in relation to some soft smooth flesh, bathed in warm light and surrounded by pure cotton bedlinen (see, I am drifting off again). No, in fact this time it was about draping more style and finesse onto something, enrobing it in nothing more than the finest of silks and in the process, making it even more attractive than laid bare. Sexiness to me has always been about elegance and style in a woman. My whisky follows suit.

I am of course referring to The Naked Grouse, the premium blended whisky which joined the covey of Grouse. Made up from mostly Macallan, Highland Park and The Glenrothes and from European oak ex-sherry cask instead of the “Famous” ex bourbon cask.

Instantly, the bottle, label (or lack of) and the recessed grouse on the front is an eye catcher, as is the darker liquid contained within. I couldn’t wait to undress this most “stripped” of whiskies.

The Naked Grouse
Blended scotch
40%

Appearance: Deep amber, maple and bright copper.

Nose: Dark toffee, cold coffee, rich fruit mincemeat, hickory, pecan and maple pastry, linseed oil, clove studded orange, candied pineapple and spices galore! Wow, this is what good wood policy and careful blending produces.

Palate: Rich as expected, bursts of caramelised hazelnuts and pecan with deep vanilla and warm cinnamon. Spices continued, in conjunction with weighty citrus notes of flamed orange peel and bitter cocoa.

Finish: It’s of little surprise that the lasting elements are of rich wood spice and bitter chocolate notes with hints of liquorice root and faint molasses.

Buy it here.

One thing I would say, is that unlike its siblings, this dram really should be left in its birthday suit- naked and unspoiled by water, ice or mixers.

 
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Posted by on May 21, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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You can always count on a woman.

I have never been one to read much, and when I do, it tends to be historical, factual stuff. Avoiding politics and religion I have always been fascinated by those around us (and past) that have made a mark on the world, left a legacy or even a scratch in the dirt deep enough for others to see. At one point I really got into Einstein and the chaos theory then the discovery and introduction of LSD into society before realising it was all a bit too chaotic and mind-bending to understand- so ditched those and stuck to biographies such as Oliver Reed and Hunter S Thomson both of which turned out to be twisted and chaotic without science to justify it.

Olly, not a lover of water.

We forget, or certainly I do, that these people must have been then, as they are now, viewed with great reverence and awe. Giants amongst the little people, living out lives just as they wanted to, bouncing from one mishap or fall to the next but always seemingly able to overcome and conquer. Although, neither Hunter nor Oliver managed to overcome (but did manufacture) their eventual end, both of which fell victim to their chosen way of life.

The stories retold in these and similar books about the lives led of these and many other “idols” are countless and each more eye-popping than the last.

But what of the unsung heroes, those out of the lime-light. The everyday people who encounter a hurdle, a hardship, a loss and yet bounce back, battle on and show what they are really made of? It happens all around us, every day in every walk of life, but just because it’s not well publicised or they are not a prominent figure in our society doesn’t make them any less special.

This train of thought came about after a rather rare opportunity was offered to me. Last week, to mark the launch of a very limited run of 13 yr old single cask Glenrothes whisky and the centenary of the loss of the Titanic on the 15th April 1912, a very select few were invited to the offices of Berry Bros & Rudd.

Having traded from its St James street offices since 1698, originally as a coffee house, which was seen as such a luxurious item and a stimulant, that it was reserved for male gentry only. Oh how times change! They moved on to wines and spirits as they grew but I am not about to go into all the history of this company as it vast and detailed You can read more about it here.

Ronnie Cox - style.

The ambassador for Berry’s heritage brands such as Cutty Sark, The Glenrothes, The King’s Ginger and No.3 Gin is Mr Ronnie Cox. If ever you get the chance to meet him, and he seems omnipresent, then you will instantly realise why this gent of gents is so perfect in this role. Always in a bit of tweed, immaculately turned out and the most perfect of hosts- all this despite his Dundonian origins. Whilst recalling an anecdote about the offices, Ronnie said he had asked one of the directors to accompany him whilst he walked the tour of the building, just to ensure he had all his facts correct. The tour normally lasts 90 mins, but two hours later the two men where still at the starting point, the parlour, which happens to be the oldest room in the building. Modest in its size it may be, but bountiful in history it certainly was and after those two hours, only two walls in the parlour had been discussed. I suggest a tour of the offices soon- just make sure you have nothing else to do that day!

As wine and spirit merchants, BBR attracted high profile clients and serviced many of the fashionable houses around St James and Mayfair. Holding casks of wine, cognac and whisky for the household butler (or bottler which is where the term originates) to fill up into vessels and decanters and return to the houses. They also did a roaring trade overseas, especially America and it was the Cutty Sark that held the most prestigious of positions in the company, often referred to as “Uncle Sark” as it helped bank-role the wine side of the business on many an occasion such was its popularity. Although the wine team probably like to keep that quiet.

The company had two connections to the Titanic and its fateful maiden voyage. On the 17th of April 1912 the company received a letter from the White Star Line detailing the loss of 69 cases of their wines and whiskies which were aboard the ship which had foundered two days earlier. A framed copy of this letter still hangs upon the wall of Berry Bros. & Rudd’s famous London shop at No.3 St James’s Street. A second, and slightly more precious cargo was Lady Rothes, the Countess of Rothes which is the town where The Glenrothes is distilled.

Lady Rothes- the "plucky little Countess"

During the ships fateful striking of the ice and the following hours, it seems Lady Rothes showed what she (and no doubt many of the women of the time) was made of. Here is an extract from a member of staff from the Titanic, recalling her valour- ‘There was a woman in my boat. She was the Countess of Rothes. I was one of those who was ordered to man the boats, and my place was in No. 8 boat. There were thirty-five of us in that boat, mostly women, but some men along with them. I was in command, but I had to row and I wanted someone at the tiller. When I saw the way she was carrying herself and heard the quiet, determined was she spoke to the others, I knew she was more of a man than any we had on board, and I put her in command. I put her at the tiller, and she was at the tiller when the Carpathis came along five hours later.’ Several ladies proved themselves to be efficient oarswomen“.**

There are countless tales of valour from that day and obvious woe at the losses, but of course the effect of the sinking had far more reach than perhaps we stop to consider. We all know the cry of “women and children first” in a disaster situation, but think about this a bit more. Of the 2229 people on board (crew and passengers) only 713 survived in total. 215 were crew and 23 of that crew were female. clearly they knew the ship and how to get off. Of the 498 passengers who made it, only 146 were men. Imagine how many widowed wives and fatherless children arrived in America, with everything they owned lost at sea and no male to help work to rebuild heir life.

As we sat in the directors dining room, we were entertained by Amy Sell, a historian from FindMyPast.co.uk who clearly had the upmost respect for the subject. As Amy relayed stories about the survivors and the less fortunate, we were given a glass of The Glenrothes Titanic to raise in their honour.

After the toast, we were expertly guided through the tasting by Douglas Mcivor of BBR who selected the cask that ended up in the bottles before us. A few points about the whisky. Firstly, it is the first Glenrothes to be bottled and labelled outside the globe bottles which are the house style. This instead was a clear nod back to the bottles that would have been sunk with the Titanic and in fact the label is as close as possible in style to the “Edwardian” label used at the time with BBR. It is from a 13 yr old, single cask using an ex-Olorosso sherry, bottled at 46% ABV and is non chill filtered. The release is of only 100 bottle and has already sold out!

The Glenrothes Titanic Limited Release

46% abv Non-Chill Filtered single cask

Appearance: Golden with virgin olive oil tones.

Nose: Rich vanilla and deep rounded citrus of candied lemon and dried fruit. Yellow zest keep it light before further fig/date aromas and a warm coffee elements emerge.

Palate: Creamy vanilla, deep fruits again with an oily, almost liquorice edge and warm brazil nut. Warm spice of mace and black pepper with balanced tannins.

Finish: Continues with a deeper coffee and brazil nut with liquorice root.

** extract from encyclopedia titanica

 
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Posted by on April 13, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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