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Wemyss “Lord Elcho”- Noble dram with noble roots.

Its always a pleasure to have a new whisky arrive in the postbox for review, and especially welcome is a Wemyss sample as I have long been a fan and this particular sample of their premium blend was stellar as always.

However…

I love whisky, and love trying new whisky especially. But it has to be said that I am not such a fond lover of tradition where whisky packaging is concerned. All too often we are faced with new labels, expressions and releases that attempt to whisk us off to a mist covered moor somewhere in the corner of the marketing director’s mind. Perhaps a red stag wanders across our view or even better- a lone piper sounding out the wails from illicit pipes.

I’ve always been a huge fan of Wemyss whisky, and not just because of the quality of the spirit but because of the forward thinking packaging which has, until this release, been modern and interesting. I was first drawn to the bottles whilst browsing the shelves of a whisky retailer and immediately the clean lines, simple but stylish bottles and fun, informative names such as “Peat Chimney” and “The Hive” drew me closer. What a breath of fresh air through the dusty warehouses of Scotch and a well received whisky when presented at Dramatic Whisky tasting events- people always comment on the packaging and the approachable, descriptive titles.

Unfortunately, I cant say the same about this new release. Whist stylish and premium looking, for me it has fallen foul of the traditional route. I would even go as far as to say it looks like a bottle of liqueur rather than whisky. Granted, its a great story behind the label – Lord Elcho, eldest son of the 5th Earl of Wemyss, was a strong supporter of the Jacobite uprising of 1745. This sophistocated, well travelled scholar, defeated on the battlefield of Culloden, was exiled to France never to return to Scotland. It is a shame that Wemyss have not remained true to his rebellious spirit and stayed with their usual packaging style which for me, like Lord Elcho embodies a forward thinking Scotland.

Fortunately, the container may be more alined to a shortbread tin than I would have liked, but the contents are well worth looking beyond the label for. “A noble whisky with a noble heritage”

Wemyss “Lord Elcho” Premium 15 year old Blended Scotch

40% abv

SRP £49.99

Appearance: Rose gold with olive oil

Nose: Initial whiffs of light sulphur give way to sweet liquorice root and cedarwood. Delicate spice of mace and liquorice mix well with honey and clover flower. With time, it opens to rounded buttery notes of macadamia nut and the merest hint of rubber tyre marks across teak decking.

Palate: Full and sweet at first with the spice coming through mid palate only slightly ahead of rounded buttery sweetness and grilled peaches with vanilla cream on the side. Sweet and spice blend well in the mouth with the ever-present drift of earthy embers maintaining a characterful balance.

Finish: Lingering bonfire embers and spiced wood remain.

In summary, this is another great addition to the Wemyss range and a quality blend showcasing careful selection and marriage. A whisky to easily stand up against similarly priced premium blended whisky.

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Posted by on September 30, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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A true warrior – Highland Park 50 year old

Apparently, the schoolchildren from the Orkney isles have a bit of trouble understanding that they are Scottish. They do know they are British, but it troubles their minds to comprehend they are Scottish such is the uniqueness of this cluster of islands just 10 miles off the north east coast. I suppose it is easily understood, after all it has had it’s fair share of ownership via Norway and the vikings using it as a bit of a stop-over for raids into Scotland and Ireland. It is certainly a checkered and interesting past with plenty of folklore and factual history to draw upon which is why the Highland Park distillery in Kirkwall is such an interesting one. Yeah sure, there are countless sites on the mainland with tales to tell but it seems to me that this wee corner of “Scotland” ticked along quite nicely without much interference from the mainland. Perhaps the ferry was too expensive for the excise man?

Nice then, that I got the chance to taste a bit of Orcandian history for myself in the form of the Highland Park 50 year old. It’s not a new release by any stretch, as the first bottles were available early last year- but at £10,000 per bottle there are few in the world lucky enough to taste it. I was happy to wait till now.

The oldest ever release from the distillery was given to us by Daryl Haldane, Highland Park brand ambassador and general nice guy- which is surprising as he is from Fife, which is not know for many happy people.

Highland park 50 yr old.

Vatting of two refill European ex-sherry cask

44.8% ABV

1 of 275 bottles.

Bottled designed by Maeve Gillies

Price: £10,000

Appearance: Deep burnished copper with rose gold

Nose: First notes are of heavy honey and rich maple with well polished leather, dried orange peel and new hide. A more perfumed element emerges of light clove and polished woods such as mahogany with a hint of brandy butter. Beyond all of this, a leafy green oil note emerges, similar to hop heads.

Palate: As expected, the palate is huge. Rich and chewy with those leather elements turning peppery then waves of the more prominent hop leaf again. The mid palate is nutty (almonds and brazil) with rich marzipan and a note of burnt plum. Surprisingly, the palate lifts towards the end with peppermint and fennel followed by liquorice.

Finish : Sweet and juicy soft liquorice takes over now allowing this massive dram to remain entertaining and offering a supreme lingering finish.

Normally a whisky of above average age is really hard to pull apart with the aromas and flavours so well integrated that they just merge into one. But the amazing thing with this is that even a couple of days after writing my initial notes and going back to try the last remaining dram the notes stand out incredibly. Every element is in there and each note rolls up to say hello in the most eloquent of fashions.

Only two venues in London stock a bottle, Dorchester Bar at the Dorchester and the newly opened Bulgari hotel, the latter of which is where we were fortunate enough to try this whisky. The bottle itself is said to be worth around £2,500, designed by jeweller Maeve Gillies, the solid silver casing that wraps around the bottle like a sinuous web of precious metal depicts all that is Orcadian. A visitor to the beautiful Orkney islands since a child, Maeve conveyed a natural and nautical theme in her Sterling silver bottle, evoking ropes, twisted seaweed and a metal finish that looked like it could have been a very old and precious object, discovered washed up on the beach. Set on the front is a disc of genuine Orcadian pink sandstone carved with Highland Park’s logo, sourced from the original quarry that built the incredible 12th century St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Behind this disc, viewable through the glass when the whisky has been finished, is an ethereal silver replica of the beautiful rose window inside the Cathedral.
The bottle is presented in a hand-carved Scottish oak box, also shaped to feel worn by wild elements, and set with a silver and glass porthole, through which the Highland Park logo on the bottle inside can just be viewed.

Each bottle is stamped with a silver hallmark, and in keeping with Highland Park’s policy of non sequential numbering, this one simply states 1 of 275 rather than bottle number one or two of 275.

So is it worth it? Well if you deduct the bottle price and look at the value of the liquid, then it isn’t an outlandish price for such a fabulous whisky. There are plenty others out there commanding far higher. Remember though, my rule for bottles with this kind of price tag, if you are going to buy it make sure you buy two- one to keep and one to share.

Now, at the end of the tasting session, (we also tried 12, 18, Thor and 21) I took a tour of the hotel and stopped off in the cigar room. This room is London’s only internal cigar room (its a loophole I can’t be bothered going into now- basically as shop) which is run by Davidoff cigar merchants on St James. I sat with Eddie, the son in the “father & son” operation and chatted about the comparison of whisky and cigars. Eddie then presented me with two beautiful cigars, which were hand rolled just two weeks prior. Alas, I couldn’t enjoy them in the lush surroundings as I had another tasting to dash off to- and I knew I might not give the other whisky a chance with HP 50 and a cigar on the palate. But I did ask about the cigars to add to the enjoyment later.

Eddie told me that they were the “Beaujolais” of cigars- to be enjoyed young and fresh. They had in fact been hand rolled just two weeks prior by Señora Dilia Hernandez who had arrived in the UK in May and was scheduled to attend various events and Habanos Specialists until her return to Cuba at the end of July. To enjoy them at their peak, they would have to be smoked within a week. I certainly wasn’t about to test that 7 day limit.

Señora Hernandez began her career in the cigar industry 20 years ago and has achieved the highest grade of cigar roller within the Cuban industry. Not only is she well respected, but Señora Hernandez also rolls cigar leaf in a traditional manner known as “entubado bunch” or entubar – a bunching technique which rolls each filler leaf into itself, almost like a small scroll. Each individually “scrolled” leaf is then placed together to form the bunch. This skillful rolling technique creates a more firmly packed cigar which allows air to travel between all of the leaves, carrying more aromatics/flavors to the palate. Entubado rolling is the most difficult and complex bunching method and is therefore rarely employed in large scale manufacturing.

I was now the proud possesor of two of these freshly rolled beauties and I can tell you, by the time the weekend was over, both had died a graceful death.

So from the oldest of whiskies to the freshest of cigars. Some would say it was quite a nice way to start the weekend.

 
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Posted by on June 22, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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This blog is about whisky.

Sometimes, in this fast-moving, noise laden world we live in, a company gets it spot on when naming a brand or product. Spandex for example, even the mention of the word makes you want to stretch it out like the word was made from the elastic itself, ‘Ssspannndex’ or snap it short with forceful pronunciation.

Spandex: Be careful which colour you choose!

But some, however, get it terribly wrong and leave us laughing in the aisles. Now granted this is normally through poor translation or a misunderstanding or cultural difference as we see in the example below. Worrying still, is perhaps this brand of crisp is actually being very honest about what is inside!

Well, at least no MSG!

TV adverts do a similar thing, and despite having perhaps a shorter window of opportunity, there is a fine line between popping a product in our busy minds for later, or loosing it along with the remote control down the back of the sofa. I like Iggy Pop, he has always been viewed as a bit of a wild rocker and sticking it to the man (any man I think) but when Iggy and his crinkly spitting image doll made an appearance in a recent TV advert, it was kind of lost. For a start, those most worried about getting cheap car insurance are no doubt first time drivers or those under 25 years old. They probably don’t even know who Iggy Pop (or Spitting Image) is. So, pointless advert really. Now, what is it they are selling again, oh yes, car insurance…but which company? That fat opera singer gets it spot one because all he does is repeat the company name.

Viagra or Horlicks?

It’s all about trying to cut through the noise of all the advertising around us and get your brand to stand out the most, be remembered or deliver on expectation. Then there are the brands which keep it simple and state what it does or contains. Ronseal, for years have not only stated plainly what it is the product is inside, but also what it does. So much so that the TV adverts which followed used this as a main marketing message and it even became a turn of phrase in the urban dialect “does exactly what it says on the tin”. A catchy slogan, a real bit of advertising and a message delivered. simples!

Wemyss Malt Whisky has always had a wee bit of a problem. A family name, a castle, hundred of years of provenance behind it yet a name even most Scots struggle with (It’s “Wee-mz” by the way). So those clever chaps at Wemyss thought of another way of delivering the malt message call it as they see it.

Wemyss is an old Scots word for “caves” and along the east coast of Scotland, in particular the kingdom of Fife, there are caves a plenty. Mostly created by the torrents of the north sea crashing against the softer sandstone of the area over countless millennia.  Atop a section of cliff on this coastline stand Wemyss castle,

Standing proud over the shoreline

on land that the residing family have had for generations. The link to whisky isn’t just their own love of it, but in fact barley that grows on the Wemyss estate is still used today by distillers across Scotland and furthermore, John Haig (of Haig’s whisky) built his first distillery on the very land the family owned.

Wemyss blended malts first caught my attention a few years back whilst browsing the shelves of a wine shop in Oundle called Amps. Amps always had such a fabulous range of wines and spirits and the rounded dumpy bottles of Wemyss with pastel shade labels and curious names certainly made me stop. This was the clever bit from the company. A different looking bottle that certainly stood out and simple, all-educating names across the front. Forget the fact that you couldn’t pronounce who made it, the fact that the range boasted expressions such as “Peat Chimney“, “Smooth Gentleman” , “Toffee Apple” and  ”The Hive” will leave you in no doubt about its contents. Although, i must admit, i still have a problem with the Smooth Gentleman, having never tasted one myself, I am unsure just how he would compare to the whisky. But it is the single cask releases that I am most in love with.

Third party bottling’s are of course nothing new, and as Wemyss are not actually distillers themselves, they are such a group. Selecting casks from distilleries and, in some cases, re-casking them to create a different character, Wemyss have a damn fine range to offer. Three of the most recent releases came to me a few weeks ago, but I am ashamed to say I just hadn’t had the time to review them until now.

The first is a 1996 offering named “Smokehouse”. It is 1 of only 363 bottles and was removed from the cask to be popped into a bottle in 2011, oh, and like so many Wemyss whiskies, 46% abv. On closer inspection, we are told that the original whisky came from Caol Ila and from the number of bottles from this single cask,  one would expect the nose to soften and be less forceful that a standard Caol Ila expression. we shall see!

Appearance: Strangely “green” like pale olive oil and gold

Like watching paint dry

Nose: Beautiful aromas of ripe pineapple, pine cone and sliced parma ham and salt encrusted driftwood next to a beach bonfire. Smoke and iodine is in there, of course, but in such an integrated it comes over as a “cured” note rather than the expected “live” smoke.

Palate: Spicy smoke gives way to liquorice root and light creamy medicinal notes. Balanced chewy cereal and salty butter and hay.

Finish: Lingering drifts of salty seaside air, light cured meat and herbal notes of hay finish the experience.

It’s not badly priced either for a single cask at £67.95 and can be bought here.

Next was the 1989 “rum & raisin” from the Tullibardine distillery, again casked at 46% and non-chill filtered. There were only 299 bottles of this beauty, capped off in 2011.

Notes: Tullibardine was very often used young as the main part to blends, but the single malt releases really show off the deeper floral notes.

Appearance: Pale straw with flecks of white gold.

There is no mistake about this one

Nose:  A burst of fresh flowers tied with a straw bow. Lovely light iris notes, then richer hints of creamy vanilla and shaves of light oak with hints of cocoa sprinkled with light brown sugar. Fruity yes, but maybe a bit lighter than expected.

Palate: Spicy golden syrup and cedar wood lifted with rich dried fruits. Floods of malt overtones with orange dust and pollen. Big chunks of creamy vanilla pull it all together creating a glorious mixture of rich, sweet fruit.

Finish: A deep mix of sweet wood with floral temperance.

It’s very good value, but the limited stock my see it gone before you get one. Try here.

 

Lastly, the 1982 “winter spice” from the Teaninich (teen-in-ik) distillery. A dribble below the 46% at 44.4% and only 201 bottles. sure to be a sell out product as this 29 yr old has bags of character.

Appearance: golden corn

Nose: Delivering welcome notes of fresh cereal,  sugar snap peas in a wicker basket which develops into richer tones with warm, vanilla laden oak. In all, like walking into a garden shed in the middle of summer.

Palate: Following on from the nose those earthy notes balanced with spice and green herby vegetal are all dancing around.  Rich and creamy to begin with mid palate cut with 2 day old grass clippings (excuse the pun), oregano and drier orange peel towards the pepper sweet end.

Does exactly what it says on the tin!

Finish: Warm vanilla spiced up with a lingering cinnamon and clove spiked orange.

Buy it now here before it runs out!
Wemyss may not trip off the tongue when trying to say it, but it’s no-nonsense approach to labelling is a welcome change to the countless bottles of whisky on shelves who say little if anything about the flavour inside.
 
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Posted by on March 22, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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