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Talisker Port Ruighe – Classically different

It seems that Talisker fans are really being spoiled at the moment after the recent release of Talisker Storm hot on its heels (or should that be stern) we have Talisker Port Ruighe.

portree_skye_scotland_1205

Finding new names for new whisky releases must be a constant battle for the industry but at least there is always Gaelic to fall back on. Port Ruighe is named after the main port on the Isle of Skye, Portree. The town was originally know as Kiltragleann (The Church at the Foot of the Glen) but it is thought than in 1540, after a visit by King James V of Scotland to show his power over the Scottish lairds, it was renamed Portree which in the Gaelic tongue “Portrigh” means “The Kings Port“. This is often contested as some believe that the town’s name is derived from the Gaelic, “Port Ruighe” meaning “slope harbour“. Whatever the originals of the name, we do know for sure that this release has been created “as a tribute to the great Scottish trading-houses such as the Cockburns, Grahams and Symingtons who were instrumental in the creation and global growth of the port wine trade” because the press release told me so. So thats the name, what about the whisky?

Port Ruighe has been created by drawing from stock matured in American oak and European oak refill casks before being “finished” (transferred all together into another cask for a short time to draw final character) in ex-port casks called “pipes”. These final resting casks impart light fruity notes usually of strawberry or cherry to a spirit along with a faint pink hue to the colour. Like Talisker Storm, Port Ruighe has been release without an age statement and at the standard Talisker strength of 45.8% alcohol by volume.

Talisker Port Ruighe Single Malt Scotch Whisky

No Age Statement

45.8% ABV

Port Pipe Finish

RRP TBC (but circa £60)

talisker-port-ruighe_mediumres

Appearance: Rose gold with deep orange.

Nose: Deep charred cedar, spent match to the fore with rich sweet plum sponge, spiced orange marmalade, apple blossom honey backing it up to deliver a rounded, full nose of well integrated bold aromas. A creamy edge like milk bottle chews/play-do seems to linger overall whilst the peated element is kept low rather than the main focus.

Palate: Smooth and rich to begin. The complex sweet fruity notes found on the nose immediate apparent in the mouth with orchard fruits of quince, pippin apple, cherry mix before cranberry dryness. Additional sweetness is delivered in the form of honey and earthy spices with a touch of nutty chocolate. Mid palate is brought alive with a tingling mixture of cooling salt and pepper followed with coal tar soap, samphire and charred cinnamon which incredibly manages to deliver classic Talisker flavours even after all that has gone before.

Finish: It’s all about the peat now. Lingering oily seaside smoke delightfully delivered with elegance and panache. Salty, peppery and very much Talisker.

Summary: What is most interesting here is that normally port finished whisky is more about the character the port will deliver as I mentioned at the beginning. More soft red fruit is expected. But here we have a great example of using the development to integrate with a classic whisky without destroying the base “DNA”, far from it. The resulting flavours have, for me created a Talisker expression which is different enough for a fan to seek out on a regular basis without being too “out of the ordinary”. Sweeter, yes, but now overpowering so. Great stuff.

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Posted by on April 22, 2013 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Blablair ’69, what a summer that must have been.

It’s been a busy time for Dramatic Whisky and aside from all the tasting events and filing, the samples and invitations to new launches have been flowing through. Most notable is the fact that we have been really spoiled by the quality. Grants 25, Bunnahabhain 40, Balvenie Liberated Casks, Wemyss Single Cask Aultmore to name just a few and the most recent, the Balblair 1969 vintage. I have had the pleasure of visiting Balblair distillery and sampling the core expressions if the 2002, 1975 and a sneak preview of the 1969 vintage here. There was also a recent travel retail release of the ’96. But it was the official release of the 1969 bottle (our sample at the distillery was from a single cask!) that found me at the Soho Whisky Club earlier this week and is some rather fine company.

The distillery manager, John MacDonald was there to guide us through the tasting, and hanging on his every word were whisky writers, bloggers and retailers such as Neil and Joel from Cask Strength, Billy from The Whisky Exchange, Becky from The Spirits Business, Laura from Imbibe Magazine, Ian who wrote 101 whiskies to try before you die, Olly from Just Drinks and the list goes on.

As I said we began with the fresh and lively 2002, moving to the richer 97 then to the 89 which all revealed an incredible change in character, before the 1975 vintage which was a heady combination of all elements found in the previous vintages and beautifully balanced. Finally, the 1969 vintage.

Balblair vintage 1969 single malt scotch whisky

Distilled 1969 bottled 2012 (43 years old) 

A marriage of only 6 casks 41.4% abv

Non chill filtered, natural colour

2nd fill American oak hogshead cask

RRP: £2,500

Appearance: Honey gold with warm amber

Nose: Orange blossom honey, wax candle and denta-stix. Warm brioche with baked apple, soft toffee sauce over  tropical fruits of banana and pineapple with hints of cider, leather and mint.

Palate: Big rounded warm spices take hold, calmed with a touch of menthol (eucalyptus oil) struck match, red berry compote and liquorice root. Ample vanilla to round out the oak, not allowing it to overpower but compliment instead. Toffee apples dusted with cinnamon and caramel wafers complete the palate.

Finish: Complex, generous and lingering. The balanced honey/spice keeps delivering more and more.

Summary: An outstanding whisky which shows just how well this brand lasts. It is unusual to find a brand how simple relies on the age of its whiskies to make up its core expressions rather than playing around with various types of wood maturation and marriages. As a consumer, Blablair is a great choice. Get stuck into the current vinategs and start your journey towards the superb 1969. Best of all, you have a bit of time as the Balblair 1969 will be launched in the USA this year at $3500, then released in 2013 in other focus markets including the UK, France, Russia and South East Asia. Enough time to save up also!

 
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Posted by on November 15, 2012 in Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Chill out- the science of whisky.

Look at most labels on a bottle of whisky and you will see indicators (in most cases, poor ones) of what’s inside. Age, distillery, finish or maturation, the strength etc. Some brands are even kind enough to indicate what the contents might actually taste of which seems to be a radical move as it is certainly not the normal practice. Now and then you will see the words “non-chill filtered” which indicates another process the whisky has undergone (or not) before bottling.

Great. So it’s non-chill filtered. That’s reassuring to the purchasing consumer isn’t it and helps him justify the price based on those words and the higher alcoholic level. Well no, actually it does neither. Labels on whisky are still, like labels on French wine, unfathomable to most and no indicator of the quality within. Brands seem to be approaching this from two sides, either wholeheartedly throwing out the rule book such as Balblair, Glenrothes, Wemyss and others. But others seem frightened of alienating the old guard of customers who might be shocked not to see a highland cow on a label, or a misty glen of reassurance that it’s authentic and traditional scotch. What a load of bollocks.

Anyway, I could go on (and on and on) about various aspects of this, but I want to concentrate on just one. The chill filtered bit.

Chill filtration is a process employed by some distillers at the point between removing the matured whisky from the cask and bottling it. All whisky is filtered to remove any residual particles that may be have been picked up from the cask itself by passing it though fine gauze or absorption filters. This can be done without chilling the whisky and simply passing it through the filter. But this simply approach leaves fatty acids, fusel oils and other hydrophobic elements in the whisky which will cause a haze when the whisky is cold or the whisky will turn cloudy when water or ice is added.

By chilling the whisky those elements responsible for causing a change in appearance will clump together and become too large in their composition, stopping them getting through the filter. The haze is only noticeable in whisky below 46% ABV, although it all depends on where the distiller has chosen to “cut” the still run.

Once the still is heated, the heads or foreshots are the first parts in distillation to come over the still and contain some of the lightest alcoholic elements such as methanol. From then on, various compounds will each in turn become activated and vapourise and pass over the neck for collection. Distillers will usually direct this first run back into the wash still for re-distillation. The later part of the run know as the tails or feints is where we see the temperature of the spirit in the still reaching top levels, and thus the start of water elements coming through along with the heaviest alcohol elements (fatty acids and fusel oils). Each element has it’s place in creating the style and character of the whisky, but it’s the choice of the distiller to decide the point where he switches from diverting the heads to collecting the heart and again switching off as it enters the feints stage.

The longer you wait or cut into the feints, the more heavier elements you bring over the still neck which will produce an oily spirit, heavy and rich. If the wash is from pleated barley, then you will actually want to hold a deep cut as the phenolic elements which carry the smokey nature are found in this latter part of the process. You can see this most apparent with Islay examples such as Laphroaig Quarter Cask which is at 48% abv against something much lighter such as The English Whisky Company Chapter 6. Pop a sample of each in a glass, say 50ml and add 5 ml of water to each and see the difference. Laphroaig will haze much more as the cut from the still is deep into the feints to ensure the classic phenolic and oily nature of the whisky is maintained. The English example, which is unpeated, cuts early in the run, avoiding the weightier elements and as a result, the haze is a lot less….in fact, David Fitt, the master distiller at TEWC indicated recently that even at 43% abv their spirit did not have a haze, despite being no-chill filtered.

Many people believe that chill filtration will cause some of the congeners (the esters, aldehydes, acids and higher alcohols contained in the distillate) are hampered and as the elements “clump” together in the cold state, they trap some of the other elements that would otherwise pass through, effecting the final character. I’m not entirely sure this is the case or if it is would we be able to pick up the change? What I do know from the many tasting we have held with Dramatic Whisky is that consumers note the “oily” and heavier mouth-feel to the whisky which most of the time helps belay the higher alcoholic amount and creates a rounded, fuller whisky.

 
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Posted by on August 7, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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Wemyss Single Cask Release

Another lovely parcel of samples arrived this week at DW headquarters but it has taken me a few days to get round to opening them due to the fact that I have actually been off booze for 10 days! Yup, hard to believe isn’t it? Even harder when you consider I have hosted three tastings within that 10 day period. But I feel good for it and even starting to feel like a proper bike rider again when I get in the saddle. The dry patch has ended though as it is my birthday this weekend so it seems only right to begin it early with a whisky (or three).

So without further ado – I’m cracking on with theses three new single cask releases from Wemyss Malt.

First up is a 1998 single cask sample called “Lemon Sorbet”. I’ve always been a fan of Wemyss approach to just stating how it is. Refreshing, as I am sure this dram will be.

Wemyss Malt Single Cask Release

1998 Vintage 46% abv

“Lemon Sorbet”

Lowland (Auchentoshan

314 bottles, Bottled 2012

Appearance: Very pale with light straw

Nose: Light citrus oil with a soft undertone of old paper, beeswax and butter. Lovely vanilla and floral notes of apple blossom. Edges of fresh balsa wood, grassy herbs and peanut shell keep the notes light yet complex.

Palate: Burst of zingy malt immediately followed by a curious roasted note akin to charred peanut. Warm crushed white pepper sprinkled over lemon meringue pie with a biscuit base. With water a more subtle vanilla and citrus element emerges and the balsa found on the nose becomes rich and buttery to the palate.

Finish: Lingering pepper, but in good harmony with the fruity elements. Still drifts of charred paper and a nutty tang.

Wemyss Malt Single Cask Release

1997 Vintage 46% abv

“Fresh Fruit Sorbet” 

Highland (Clynelish

331 Bottles, Bottled 2012

Appearance: Light yellow gold with green straw

Nose: As the name suggests, an abundance of berry fruits jump out at you , cloaked in waxy vanilla as is typical of the distillery. Some polished cherry wood and chewed lollipop stick. It’s a complex nose that gives up Eton Mess or maybe Cranachan is more appropriate with an oily alcoholic element, but this latter part barely makes an appearance or spoil the party.

Palate: Warming and rich, the thickness is most apparent helping further amplify the waxy element found on the nose. Fruity it certainly is, but now we are heading into more orchard fruits than summer berry. Good spicy grip clings to the mouth as it introduces itself and the woody vanilla lends peasant structure to the lighter fruits.

Finish: Delicate once the spice subsides, with warm vanilla and conference pear dusted with cinnamon. I’m not even attempting to cut this back with water – it’s quite fine as it is.

Wemyss Malt Single Cask Release

1991 Vintage 46% abv

“Strawberry Ganache”

Campbeltown (Glen Scotia)

833 bottles, bottled 2012

Appearance: Rose gold with light copper

Nose: Dark chocolate with honey and rich orchard fruit notes, well matured and integrated as to become a heady combination of deep fruit and spice notes. Incredibly, there is a top note of fresh strawberry and plum for a moment but the overriding elements are of quality tanned hide infused with Spanish orange oil and even some spicy tobacco.

Palate: Deep spices of mace and clove are pronounced at the beginning but they do give way to an easier plum note and rosewood oil. There is a lot going on here, herbal, almost lavender like with dried wood, spice and citrus both in dried and fresh form. Pot-pouri in a glass, the sweetness of the european sherry butt used is very apparent with a tiny drift of sulphur to the edges. With a splash of water the leather elements take over and are most apparent on the nose where as on the palate we see a softening of the more mineral elements and a return to the soft fleshed summer fruits.

Finish: This is certainly an adventure with a lot going on and it takes a while to really open up with its complex array of rich yet fresh elements.

Three new releases and all showing great character. I would say that of the three the ’97 “Fresh Fruit Sorbet” was more my style and would be something I will be seeking out. The ’98 “Lemon Sorbet” is the perfect summers afternoon dram, an accompaniment to any picnic in the park whilst I think the ’91 “Strawberry Ganache” might need a dark corner and a good book late at night before it could be fully appreciated.

These samples will be available to purchase very soon at Master of Malt so make sure you get your chops round them and make your own mind up.

 
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Posted by on July 27, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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