Highland Park has always been a favourite of mine although I am rather spoiled having tasted the 50 Year old last year- but I do really get to grips with its house style and character. So when I was invited last month to the launch of their new “Warrior Series” I was very much looking forward to it.
The six new expressions will be available through Travel Retail and have been created to showcase flavour through different maturation and specifically the increased use of European sherry cask as you move up through the range. Following on from previous travel retail releases, such as Leif Eriksson and Drakkar, comes this new range of six single malts.
Each whisky has been named after a Viking warrior, aligning its strength and intrigue with these heroes of a past time. Orkney has strong ties to Norse and Viking culture with a colourful history and the range is set to tell the story of each of its namesake.
Speaking at the launch, Global Marketing Manager Gerry Tosh said:
“The Warrior Series is a natural progression for Highland Park, both in brand terms and in global travel retail. By continuing the celebration of our rich and distinctive Norse heritage we are able to tell stories which bring the brand and its products to life. To further this evolution, the whisky maker has crafted six individual whiskies which collectively offer drinkers a new style of taste journey, still classically Highland Park from start to finish, but giving them a different and holistic experience.”
The range is to be released in two part, with the latter three expressions due for release in the summer.
Svein- The ultimate Viking chieftain whose exploits lie at the heart of the Orkneyinga Saga and his appetite for adventure and merriment are legendary.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky- Svein
40% abv No age statement
RRP €40 1 litre Bottle
90% American Oak, 10% European Oak
Appearance: Pale straw with light yellows.
Nose: Fruity and floral, the light character of this whisky is immediate. Redcurrants, woody spices and a light nut oil layer through the nose with some richer smoked citrus elements in the background.
Palate: Charred cedar wood with warm vanilla. Linseed and light spices turning towards dry apricots, orange pith mixed with malt.
Finish: A lingering oil notes helps cling onto the citrus element with light wood/malt.
Einar- Was the Earl of Orkney from 1014. A hard and successful Viking, often venturing on many long voyages, he was relentless in this rule and clearly identifiable by his mighty axe.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky – Einar
40% abv
No Age Statement
RRP €53 1 Litre Bottle
75% American Oak, 25% European Oak
Appearance: White gold with ripe straw.
Nose: Chestnuts in honey with drifts of light smoke never amounting to more than a rubber note. Tropical peel with pepper and malt.
Palate: Pronounce, grippy dry smoke with creamy oil and ginger. Soft floral notes wrap around the woody vanilla to contain it and balance out the spices.
Finish: The smokey barley hangs around with sweet floral notes drifting through.
Harald- Was an incredible character in the founding of the Orkney earldom, as well as having a major role in the development of Viking history. King of Norway, Harald Fairhair was famed for his army, which was revered across the world at the time.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky – Harald
40% abv
No Age Statement
RRP €75
50% American Oak, 50% European Oak
Appearance: Warm gold with light yellows.
Nose: A rich nose of integrated smoke with ginger, cedar, chestnuts and red fruit compote. An earthy rubber note lingers in the background, a mix of spice and smoke. Deeper citrus and tropical notes are hard to find but are in there.
Palate: Creamy vanilla, tingling ginger and cinnamon with oily notes and a hint of cocoa. Smoke is more subdues here, covered by the spicier notes derived from the increase in European oak lending more a raised platform for the other flavours to lay over rather than be the dominant force.
Finish: Oily citrus with soft peat smoke and earthy spices.
Summary: It is very interesting to see the change in character through these three whiskies as they change the wood programme and I certainly was most taken by the balanced deeper notes found in the Harald bottle. Highland Park fans certainly wont be disappointed in these three, although perhaps the first two are a little on the lighter side. I also had the opportunity to sample the next three, yet unreleased expressions which increase the European oak further and was very happy with the results, but will keep those notes to myself until the summer.
On a recent trip back to Scotland I managed to squeeze a quick visit to Glengoyne into my crazy schedule and as always it was a pleasure, but I was also keen to go somewhere I had never been. Luckily for me Deanston was not too far from where I was based for the week and despite the fact I have probably driven past the end of the road thousands of times before, this would be my first “official” visit. The visitor center only opened last year though so I can be forgiven. I wrote before about the distillery from my research and reviewed the 12 Year old here but this time I wanted to have a look around and get hold of some of the distillery releases.
The distillery might not be in the running for “prettiest” in Scotland, but just like a bottle of whisky, it’s whats inside that counts and not only is the story of Deanston interesting, but the welcome is well worth seeking out. The visitor center is recently opened and it is clear to see that everyone involved is very proud indeed. Being met by Peter Semple, visitors and facilities manager we avoided the normal tour and headed straight for the heart of the distillery, stopping off prior to get an insight into the social history of the once cotton mill turned whisky distillery.
There were two particular whiskies that I had heard were available from the distillery which are not seen that often and I was keen to sit down with Peter and run through them. The first being a Spanish Oak release and the second, a 1974 bottling which, as it is the year of my birth is always of interest to me. Sadly, Peters hospitality did not stretch as far as to donate a bottle to my birthday fund, but at £800 a bottle, you cant blame him.
The first to review was the Spanish Oak- a 19 year old whisky matured first in ex American Bourbon cask for 11 years before spending a further 8 year in Spanish cask, namely Gonzalez Byass Lapanto brandy cask. This solera matured brandy is of 15 years or older and is the only brandy produced in Jerez.
Nose: Dark skinned fruit and light linseed oil start the proceedings with a drying note of struck match in the background. Brandy butter over red apple core with warming spices of mace, clove and cinnamon. Rich honey becomes toffee like but remains in check with a base of forest fruit compote.
Palate: Grippy at first, a teardrop of water helped to calm the assertive spice and phosphorous elements which became plummy and sweet like stewed fruits of prune, blackcurrant and cherry pie. An earthy spice with sweetness such as liquorice root maintained balance.
Finish: Earthy spice of sweet liquorice root takes hold with blackcurrants on dry toast to the end.
Nose: Chicory, coffee essence and toffee begin this rich, aromatic nose before baked apple with molasses drizzle come in. The fruity element remains but becomes deeper and turns to blackcurrant, cassis, cherry and honey. Towards the end or the lingering scent, a lifting waft of tea-tree honey helps balance the richness.
Palate: A bold start with gripping spices and edgy mineral notes before turning sweet with baked apple. It takes a little time to calm and allow the honey and toffee element to speak for a short while before the spices run riot again. Oily, tingling and spiking throughout the fruity mid palate this could be seen as a challenging whisky perhaps, but in a great way. Fruit, nut, honey and spice- its all in there.
Finish: Turning nutty with a slightly tarry note with coffee bitter edge. The lingering palate never seems to fade. Outstanding.
Summary: If the friendliness of this particularly “new” distillery wasn’t enough to make you stop and say hello- then both these drams waiting for you at the end will surely clinch it. Both offering up something totally different between them and a far cry from the standard Deanston 12 year old and the house style we might expect. I certainly loved both of them and hope Peter remembers my birthday on July 30th
It’s always a bit of a risk allowing someone else to shape the future of things, just look what happens to the X Factor when it goes to public voting! You just never know the outcome.
At least Glenmorangie, with their Cask Masters programme has started of with three exceptional “acts” to choose from – not a Rylan to be seen thank goodness.
I recently attended The Deck at the National Theatre to hear about the launch of this ever so ambitious idea. Dr Bill Lumsden, who oversees the whisky for both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg talked us through three differently finished Glenmorangie whiskies and explained that with the use of the internet, social media and tasting events the public can lodge a vote as to which whisky shall make it to the eventual commercial bottling. But it does not just end there. Not only will the liquid be chosen by the public, but also the bottle, the label, the name and event the market in which to first launch the new release. Brave indeed.
Over the next 18 months, you too can help shape the future of this dram by logging onto www.glenmorangie.com/caskmasters. The final whisky will be released towards the latter part of 2014.
Dr Bill Lumsden explained:
“This is a very bold move for us – for years we have listened to fans of the brand and their views and reactions to the whiskies we have introduced.
“Now it’s their turn to become truly involved and I hope as many whisky aficionados as possible around the world will be able to join in and enjoy each stage of this exciting 18 month journey.
“We have crafted three rare whiskies for fans to choose from and those participating will be able to follow the process and interact online.”
With a few tasting notes already up on the website to help guide along those who may be new to the world of whisky, I thought I would add my own. The three chosen casks we tried at the event are not yet finished, but are close enough to give you an idea of the final character- It was clear that the good Dr had a favourite amongst the three, coughing behind clenched fist a barley audible “C” but the final decision is now out of his hands altogether. Over to us.
Sample “A”
A 15 year old Glenmorangie at 46% ABV rested for 10 years in American ex-Bourbon cask to be transferred to an ex Grand Cru Burgundy cask for the last 5 years and without giving too much away, Dr Lumsden mentioned Cotes de Nuit to help narrow down the general area.
Appearance: Pale gold with warm orange
Nose: fruity to start with a dry-ish mineral note and floral element before turning into what is normally associated with a well aged Point Noir- that typical farmyard smell, mushroom, truffle oil and earthy tones. The nose is lifted with the appearance of orange oil before turning deeper into Kirsh.
Palate: Creamy and rich with spices of mace, vanilla and orange polish on old wood. An autumnal taste helps link it back to the elements found on the nose.
Sample “B”
Again, this sample is around 15 years old, 46% ABV and for its first 9 years, American ex-bourbon cask was its home before being decanted for a further 6 years into an ex Bordeaux cask. This time we were given a bigger hint as to its previous contents- Chateau Montrose no less!
Appearance: Russet apple and bronze.
Nose: Another fruity start but this time it remains. Red fruits and deep citrus, Pencil shavings, Plums and apricot all in attendance with a lighter floral note that seems to drift between honeysuckle and eucalyptus leaf.
Palate: Soft grassy, floral elements and spiced wood, the delicate balance of this whisky tips between the two sides with ease drawing in on the classic Glenmorangie DNA and the borrowed character of a deep mature claret. Dry spice of white pepper comes towards the finish but is accompanied with stone fruits and light cedar wood.
Sample “C”
An increase in age over the previous samples, this 18 year old 46% ABV example has been finished in an ex-Manzanilla cask. We were not given the exact timings with this one.
Appearance: Mid gold with copper.
Nose: Struck match, butter and honeysuckle right at the fore developing a salty olive note as one might expect from the cask. Linseed oil, toffee and orange peel develop later but its all about that light sherry influenced base.
Palate: Immediately sweet, then dries with brine and olive leaf. New-buck leather and suede over cherry wood and walnuts. Its a rather strangely welcoming taste, umami if you like. switching all the time between fruity floral and salt wood. Complex and interesting, a departure from the Glenmorangie style it certainly is and I can see why it has become a stand out for Bill.
Summary: Three outstandingly “unnecessarily well made” whiskies each with something very different to say. For me, sample C was just a little bit too far and I was drawn more toward B with its perfect fruit and floral notes. I liked A also, but not sure if I could settle down each time and not question it over and over again. Of course, my vote will only be one of many and this will certainly keep the interest high as we see this develop over the next 18 months. Just for the record, I voted for B, I did not ever vote for Rylan.
In this world of “Top Ten” lists, it would be of no surprise to find Glengoyne distillery high up the standings of a “prettiest distilleries” list (actually, I might have to put that together). Nestled at the foot of the Trossach hills in central Scotland and taking its name from Glen Guin meaning valley of the wild goose, a feature carried onto the new packaging in the form of small stria to represent the goose feather, Glengoyne has been producing whisky for nearly 200 years. Looking at the bottle, it clearly states 1833 as its established date, however, like most distilleries in Scotland, that date is more to do when the excise man caught them producing whisky without license and many distilleries have a much earlier date to mark first production with. But time is important at Glengoyne, with the casks they use taking six years to prepare, a 56 hr fermentation and one of the longest distillation times in the industry before maturing in those costly ex-sherry cask. Curiously, the distillery straddles the “highland line” with distilation taking place in the highlands, yet maturation taking place over the road in the lowlands, but you know my thoughts on whisky regions anyway! You would be mistaken if you think that all this extra time is simply to take life at a bit more of a leisurly pace, although that may be part of the reason, Glengoyne has always been held in high esteem for its careful approach with rewarding results. The normal expressions that can be found of Glengoyne are 10, 12, 17, and 21 year old but two have just been replaced and one new addition in the form of a cask strength all of which I was introduced to recently.
Glengoyne 15 year old single malt (replaces the 12)
43% ABV
70% first fill ex sherry cask, 30% refill ex sherry cask
Appearance- Rose gold highlighted with apple green.
Nose- Immediately opens with warm honey, nut oil, baked apples, dried apricots and a light cherry note. Spices come through as fresh ginger, pineapple and light vanilla with cinnamon. Towards the end of the note, a dryer, more mineral element of green tea leaf emerges.
Palate- Much of that detected in the nose makes a second appearance here on the palate, rich orchard fruits, honey and spice but with the added weight of chewy malt as it heads towards the finish.
Finish- Lingering well balanced spice and fruit with a malt backbone.
Glengoyne 18 year old single malt (replacing the 17)
43% ABV
50% 1st fill ex sherry cask, 50% refill ex sherry cask
Nose- Oily and spiced with linseed oil, cricket bat and glaziers putty lifted towards fruity notes of bergamot, dried mandarin peel and stewed orchard red fruits.
Palate-Again, many of the elements found in the aroma are carried over here. Rich and nutty with chewy fruits which add depth and sweetness to the otherwise dry spiced palate. Struck match comes through as the final spice.
Finish- lingering prickly sweet spice and drying struck match in perfect balance.
Nose- Cinder toffee, caramac bar, thick cut marmalade and chicory make up the abundantly rich and slightly oily nose with a good malty background aroma of banana bread.
Palate- Characteristically Glengoyne with its nutty oil of linseed and fruit, bell peppers, slightly tropical again with warm banana, caramel and hints of light citrus to light the palate. with a splash of water, the fruity elements come to the fore with delicious buttered digestive and toffee banana.
Finish- lingering spice of mostly pepper, butter and vanilla.
Summary- Three excellent drams in their own right, each delivering very different characteristics whilst still showing the familiar DNA of Glengoyne. For me, the 15 actually delivered a more complex experience than either of the other two with it’s clever balancing act of various casks. Prices are perhaps above that of most other brands of similar age, but dont let this put you off as The Glengoyne is certainly worth paying (and waiting) for.
Those lovely chaps (and lasses) at Wemyss Malts are at it again with the second release of those splendid single cask whiskies. This time a selection which tempts the autumnal tastebuds with titles such as “Beach Bonfires” and “White chocolate torte” perfect timing as we see the last of the suns warm rays give way to chilly blue skies and crisp leaves underfoot. Get the fire on, grab a good book and settle in to these three delightful drams.
“Autumn Berries” – 26 yr old Blair Athol distillery.
Distilled: 1986 46% abv
268 bottles Ex Hogshead
Appearance: Palest straw with white gold
Nose: Apple blossom, chesnuts and conference pears. Buttery vanilla helps balance the bright fruits with a slightly waxy undertone.
Palate: Warm apple and pears drizzled with the lightest maple syrup and earthy spice.
Finish: Roast chestnuts and mocha coffee make up the drying finish.
Summary: Wonderfully complex and intriguing dram. Well balanced and integrated with dry fruit and rounded buttery vanilla.
“Sugared Almonds” – 30 yr old. Aultmore distillery.
Distilled : 1982 46% abv
272 bottles Ex Hoghead
Appearance: Light honey with rose gold
Nose: As the name suggests- sugared almonds is right in there. Hints of artists oil paint and linseed oil, red apple skin, marshmallows and white chocolate raisins.
Palate: Rich malt, roasted chestnut, liquorice root and brandy butter all combine with red berry, cracked peppercorn, yellow capsicum and hint of spearmint woven through cool autumnal smoke.
Finish: Wonderfully rich with drying roasted notes and lightly spiced, the lingering palate keeps delivering.
Summary: Took a while for me to actually get the words out for this- its such a fabulous whisky. Oodles of character, plenty to say for itself but quietly sophisticated with it. I’ve fallen for this one BIG time.
“Lemon Smoke” – 16 yr old. Caol Ila distillery.
Distilled: 1996 46% abv
380 Bottles Ex Hogshead
Appearance: Pale ochre with hints of hay.
Nose: Light carbolic note with samphire, stewed rhubarb and gooseberry fool all wrapped up in dying embers from a seaside campfire. Gentle vanilla creeps through supported by fresh pine sap. Black pepper on strawberries right at the end.
Palate: Calmly assertive with a creamy, buttery beginning, quickly becoming laced with wood oven smoke and a brine edge to control things. Well integrated all round with a perfect balance of sweet fruit, salt and smoke.
Finish: Delightfully lingering edge of salty smoke and nutty wood.
Summary: Another superb example of a well balanced Islay, not overly phenolic and with plenty of other elements going on to keep you coming back for more. Would make the perfect introduction to the first timer for a smokey dram- if they could get their hands on a bottle in time!
Overall, in my eyes these guys can do no wrong (ok, maybe not perfect) as each release is timed to perfection and showcases the very essence of the distilleries they were born from of course, it does help when you have the guru that is Charlie Maclean putting his tuppence worth into the selection as we saw earlier this year with the first single cask releases. Estimated to retail between the very reasonable price of £75-£105, I doubt we will see these last very long.
It is no secret to those who follow this blog that when a new release to the ever growing whisky world makes it to my desk, festooned in mock highland regalia and images of old Scotland, that my shoulders drop and my enthusiasm wanes. That is not to say that I don’t ever give the liquid a fair and unencumbered review. It’s just the packaging that sets my teeth on edge. So, as the newest release from The Arran distillery came to me, I immediately adopted said pose and mindset.
But wait, Sometimes there is a reason beyond that of trying desperately to hook those in search of the old misty hills of the homeland in the bottom of a glass. And so to The Arran “Robert Burns”.
Since 2000 The Isle of Arran Distillers have been granted life membership of the World Burns Federation – an organisation based in Kilmarnock, Ayrshire which is dedicated to the life and works of our national poet Robert Burns.
Born in 1759 , the Ayrshire boy’s links to the isle of Arran are well know and although he never set foot on the isle, it is certainly visible from Ayr beach. Apparently, to release the daily grind of working on his fathers farm, Robert started to write and in his mid teens produced his first poetry which was dedicated to the main subjects which dominated his life – whisky and women! I think we would have gotten along quite well. Although, during his life Roberts link to whisky was not always favoured as he took up employment for his majesty as a customs & excise man- a post about as popular as a traffic warden in today’s terms. However, he kept writing and his love of whisky remained true. By the time ill health saw his to an early grave at just 37, he was well known, but his work had not yet gained the attention and respect that it has today.
The isle had around 50 illegal stills in operation at the time Robert first put quill to paper and the quality of spirit produced there was claimed to be very high leading to many fine gents “taking the Arran waters” for health purposes. Fast forward a few decades and we have just one distillery in operation.
Independently owned and run, The Arran distillery opened in 1995 on a site picked out for maximum benefit of the microclimate offered by the Gulf Stream and the purest water supply in all of Scotland at Loch na Davie, high in the hills that overlook the village of Lochranza on the North coast of Arran. Using traditional wooden wash backs, dunnage warehousing and choosing to use no additional colourings and many of the releases are non-chil filtered, they are staying true to the natural spirit.
The Robert Burns expression is a marriage of varied years, from both American oak ex-Bourbon casks whith a smaller proportion of ex-Sherry hogsheads and bottled at 43% and is the “Official Robert Burns Whisky”
The Arran Distillery “Robert Burns” single malt
No age statement
43% abv
Colour: Pale yellow gold with light straw
Nose: Vanilla ice cream with slices of granny smith apple with turns to stone fruit and light oak. Malty notes remain and a freshness of New Make lingers in the youthful nose.
Palate: Creamy butterscotch at first, rounded with delicate spices of nutmeg and cinnamon towards the mid palate. Light in its character yet well balanced elements of youthful vanillin, dry wood and warming light spice help build a lingering palate.
Finish: Slightly chewy malt with vanilla cream coats the mouth as the light spice remains.
Summary: A very light whisky, well balanced and offering just enough to be interesting. Doubtful it is close to anything the bard would have drunk back in the late 1700′s as it’s light style was not in particular fashion back then, but I doubt he would complain if a fine lass handed him a glass of this today. He would also be pleased, as a Scotsman, to discover the very reasonable retail price.
Normally my postman curses me because none of my parcels fit through the letterbox, those being well protected bottles of whisky to review. I doubt he was any less impressed when he attempted to deliver my latest acquisition but i’m sure he knew this time it wasn’t a bottle as the parcel contained a fabulous book from those lovely people at Cutty Sark. The title of the book was Travel Photographer of the Year and is a superb collection of images based around various categories of travel photography.
Cutty Sark are one of the main sponsors and in particular of the award for Spirit of Adventure photographer of the year which went to Franco Banfi. Franco is renowned for environmental, wildlife and most famously underwater photography the latter winning this this year’s award. UK photographer Martin Hartley took the runner up prize with his images shot during the Catlin Arctic Survey in Canada.
The book, which contains the best images from the 2010 and 2011 awards including the winners’, is a fascinating pictorial map capturing the everyday, the sublime, the familiar and the other worldly. Find out more about Travel Photography of the Year and purchase the book for yourself.
Of course, there was a bottle of whisky along with the book and it made a welcome companion whilst losing a few hours within the pages but it almost sent me on my own little adventure. I wanted to find a little more and the reason for the link to The Spirit of Adventure.
We take many of the whisky brands on the market for granted, forgetting the heritage and provenance behind them as new brands emerge with tentative links to the past to create an interesting back story. Cutty Sark is a little different. In 1923, the partners of Berry Bros. & Rudd in London were discussing, amongst many other things, the opportunity to create a new type of blended Scotch with a lighter style to appeal to their wine based clientele. At the time, most blended Scotch was of a rich and heavy style giving the new Berry Bros. & Rudd blend a unique selling point with its light, pale style. Of course, they needed to call this new whisky something and looked to current affairs for inspiration. The world’s fastest tea clipper, the Cutty Sark was very much in the news and following a suggestion from Scottish artist James McBey Berry Bros. decided this would be an appropriate symbol perhaps representing both the strength and ground breaking qualities of this fresh new blend. The whisky was launched to great applause and instantly became a success.
Cutty Sark is based around a core of grain from North British and select malts such as Glenrothes, Macallan, Highland Park, Bunnahabhain, Tamdhu and Glengoyne. Despite these weighty players, and many others which you wouldn’t instantly think of producing light spirit, Cutty remains light and filled with fruity character and was clearly a revelation and rather adventurous advance in the blended scotch market at the time of its launch.
I’m rather ashamed to say that It had been many years since I last held a bottle of Cutty in my hands. The first notable thing for me was the new slender, almost feminine pale green bottle and that unmissable yellow label which is rather smaller than previous but still stands out. I couldn’t wait to crack it open and get the review under way.
Appearance: Pale straw, with white gold
Nose: Immediately oily malt with citrus fruits and buttery macadamia nut. Hessian drizzled with pale honey and white grapefruit zest. A handful of green hay mixed with crisp autumnal leaf.
Palate: Orange barley sweets, light golden syrup and a bite of fruit and nut mixture. Lots of lovely citrus elements (Seville orange marmalade and roses lime marmalade ) mingle with the slightest hint of roasted chestnuts in the background.
Finish: A delightful finish of lingering citrus, toasted vanilla, delicate malt sweetness and a hint of drying nuttiness.
Summary: I am a big fan of both Highland Park and The Glenrothes so it will come as no surprise that I find this whisky rather delicious and if, like me, its been some time since you tried some Cutty Sark then I suggest you change that situation immediately and have a wee adventure of your own.
Ahead of what will no doubt be a very busy week after The Whisky Exchange annual Whisky Show, I thought it best to try to review a few samples that have been sent to me before the pile on my desk becomes either out of date or a task too great for a mere man to tackle. Its been quite an active time of late with a number of brands releasing new expressions and talk of a few more in the near future. All great news for the industry as clearly there is a growing demand and with it a growing audience.
The first new release for review is from Balblair, one of my top rated malts and I recently reviewed a number of fabulous examples from the distillery here. This Travel Retail (duty free to those not in the trade) exclusive, which will replace the current 1995 release, comes in 1 litre bottles and will be available next month after its official launch at Tax Free World Association exhibition in Cannes (October 21-26).
As with all the Balblair range, the ’96 comes without chill filtration and at an ABV of 46% which helps maintain the depth of character, adding complexity to the spirit on both the nose and palate. The 1996 vintage was bottled in 2012 after spending its 16 years of maturation in ex-bourbon cask only.
Balblair Single Malt Whisky (Travel Retail exclusive) Vintage 1996
Nose: Light honey with fresh butter undertones, coconut flesh surrounded by fresh summer red fruits, pear and candied lemon peel. A light dusting of nutmeg traces delicately through it all which offers a grounded note to the otherwise zesty fruit.
Palate: Immediately creamy and full in the mouth, bursting with richness and bright spices. Cinnamon takes over the nutmeg now but wave after wave of rich vanilla, orange blossom honey on buttered crumpets with calvados drizzled tarte tatin.
Finish: The spice lingers, but a cleansing citrus note, not too powerful, helps maintain the balance.
In summary, a splendid dram which showcases the maturation of the distillery’s typical releases to perfection. Underneath the rich aromas are all the classic signs of a well produced Balblair spirit and without any tampering, the 1996 will undoubtedly be a hit with frequent travellers. Now where is my passport?
Another lovely parcel of samples arrived this week at DW headquarters but it has taken me a few days to get round to opening them due to the fact that I have actually been off booze for 10 days! Yup, hard to believe isn’t it? Even harder when you consider I have hosted three tastings within that 10 day period. But I feel good for it and even starting to feel like a proper bike rider again when I get in the saddle. The dry patch has ended though as it is my birthday this weekend so it seems only right to begin it early with a whisky (or three).
So without further ado – I’m cracking on with theses three new single cask releases from Wemyss Malt.
First up is a 1998 single cask sample called “Lemon Sorbet”. I’ve always been a fan of Wemyss approach to just stating how it is. Refreshing, as I am sure this dram will be.
Nose: Light citrus oil with a soft undertone of old paper, beeswax and butter. Lovely vanilla and floral notes of apple blossom. Edges of fresh balsa wood, grassy herbs and peanut shell keep the notes light yet complex.
Palate: Burst of zingy malt immediately followed by a curious roasted note akin to charred peanut. Warm crushed white pepper sprinkled over lemon meringue pie with a biscuit base. With water a more subtle vanilla and citrus element emerges and the balsa found on the nose becomes rich and buttery to the palate.
Finish: Lingering pepper, but in good harmony with the fruity elements. Still drifts of charred paper and a nutty tang.
Nose: As the name suggests, an abundance of berry fruits jump out at you , cloaked in waxy vanilla as is typical of the distillery. Some polished cherry wood and chewed lollipop stick. It’s a complex nose that gives up Eton Mess or maybe Cranachan is more appropriate with an oily alcoholic element, but this latter part barely makes an appearance or spoil the party.
Palate: Warming and rich, the thickness is most apparent helping further amplify the waxy element found on the nose. Fruity it certainly is, but now we are heading into more orchard fruits than summer berry. Good spicy grip clings to the mouth as it introduces itself and the woody vanilla lends peasant structure to the lighter fruits.
Finish: Delicate once the spice subsides, with warm vanilla and conference pear dusted with cinnamon. I’m not even attempting to cut this back with water – it’s quite fine as it is.
Nose: Dark chocolate with honey and rich orchard fruit notes, well matured and integrated as to become a heady combination of deep fruit and spice notes. Incredibly, there is a top note of fresh strawberry and plum for a moment but the overriding elements are of quality tanned hide infused with Spanish orange oil and even some spicy tobacco.
Palate: Deep spices of mace and clove are pronounced at the beginning but they do give way to an easier plum note and rosewood oil. There is a lot going on here, herbal, almost lavender like with dried wood, spice and citrus both in dried and fresh form. Pot-pouri in a glass, the sweetness of the european sherry butt used is very apparent with a tiny drift of sulphur to the edges. With a splash of water the leather elements take over and are most apparent on the nose where as on the palate we see a softening of the more mineral elements and a return to the soft fleshed summer fruits.
Finish: This is certainly an adventure with a lot going on and it takes a while to really open up with its complex array of rich yet fresh elements.
Three new releases and all showing great character. I would say that of the three the ’97 “Fresh Fruit Sorbet” was more my style and would be something I will be seeking out. The ’98 “Lemon Sorbet” is the perfect summers afternoon dram, an accompaniment to any picnic in the park whilst I think the ’91 “Strawberry Ganache” might need a dark corner and a good book late at night before it could be fully appreciated.
These samples will be available to purchase very soon at Master of Malt so make sure you get your chops round them and make your own mind up.
I’ve only ever used the sleeper train back to Scotland once before. It’s the constant shunting, stopping and general cramped conditions that conspire to ensure my 6′ 2″ frame arrives far from “fresh” and ready to embrace the day ahead. So when the invitation to visit the Balblair distillery landed in my inbox I winced a little to see sleeper train up, flight back the next day on the itinerary. However, i should have not bothered packing the overnight bag with an eye-mask, earplugs and a feather pillow (I’m picky about where I rest my head) as the company joining me on board would ensure we saw little of sleep and plenty of whisky.
The finer details I will leave out for now, but I’m sure it’s not the first time that 10 adults, four and a half bottles of whisky and a carpet picnic from M&S has managed to squeeze into two adjacent 4×7 cabins. We did discover the lounge carriage a little later in the evening, only to be told in no uncertain terms that “this was NOT a party train!” This direction, delivered by the guard, was shortly after all ten of us rolled into the carriage and purchased all of the whisky miniatures from the bar. I think he saw how the night could play out, or maybe it was the sight of Miss Whisky in her PJ’s that had him reconsidering the opening hours.
Balblair distillery is just under and hour from Inverness airport and on route, you pass Dalmore and Glenmorangie as you head across the Black Isle. If you keep going, you will reach Old Pulteney which, as you will know, is one of my favourite of all whiskies and is also owned by InterBev, who have Balblair, AnCnoc and Speyburn making up their single malts portfolio. As we stepped from the coach, my slightly delicate state made me announce that the only thing that could start this day on the right footing was a bacon roll and a dram…well, as we entered the small dining room and there laid out in front of us was exactly that – bacon rolls and Balblair. Now thats how to host!
Balblair has seen quite a bit of press over the last few years. Firstly, in 2007 they decided to have a wee make-over. Radically (for the scotch industry) dispensing with age statements and the traditional bottle and label, they set about releasing only vintages. As distillery manage John MacDonald said “The whisky tells us when its ready”. I loved the new packaging when I first saw it, and now with a few delicate tweaks here and there it still stands out as one of the best designed bottles and packaging of any whisky. There seems to be a deep-set, almost tangible provenance to the bottle when you hold it, something inherently historic yet edgy and modern…how exactly do you create that?
Another reason Balblair has hit the headlines was more recently when Ken Loach requested use of the distillery as the location for his whisky film “Angles Share”, winner of the Jury Prize at Cannes film festival this year. Brand manager Andy Hannah said it was a great opportunity and seeing the distillery on-screen was not only wonderful exposure for the brand, but for the whisky industry in general. Lets face it, there aren’t many whisky movies out there and my copy of Whisky Galore has seen better days. There was another little surprise for the gathered group of journalists, bloggers and professional drinkers as the industries most respected writer and whisky historian, Charlie MaClean joined us. Charlie actually makes a cameo appearance in the film and until filming began, he hadn’t ever visited Balblair so it was a fresh experience for us all. Sit with a dram and ask Charlie a question, and he can entertain you for hours with great stories and whisky anecdotes, thankfully not in a geeky way!
Next, we were shown the new shop and visitors exhibition and given the opportunity to bottle our own single cask ’92 Balblair! Drawing your very own whisky from the cask, bottling it, labelling it and sealing it really is great fun and after, when I stood back to admire my new proudest possession, I couldn’t help but imagine the day I pop the cork and share it around, a day not too far off I suspect.
So, tour over, bottling done, new friends made and it was time to get down to the serious business of the new release tasting. Three in total, Vintage ’02, ’75 and ’69 (the latter of that trio is not actually released yet so it was a sneak preview) were laid out along with the current releases of ’01, ’89 and ’78.
The 1975 vintage replaces the 1978 as the oldest and most prestigious (for now) vintage in the core range. It is the first time a vintage has enjoyed a second release but with a distinctly different liquid style from the original; whereas the first release was laid down in Spanish oak ex-sherry casks, the second release is aged in American oak ex-sherry casks.
Balblair Single Malt 1975 Vintage
Non-chill filtered 46% abv
RRP: £235
Appearance: Warm gold with bright straw
Nose: Deep earthy and rich tropical notes bust out which calm to reveal worn leather, brittle toffee and flamed orange peel. As the nose airs drifts of bow resin, old oak sap roasted nut and raisins dusted with cocoa play around.
Palate: As expected the richness draws you in with heady ingredients of buttery nut oil, earthy spices and ripe tropical fruits before a delicate rise of citrus cleans through. Wonderfully complex and appealing.
Finish: It’s all about the fruits here, lingering and shifting from rich to citrus and back again. Joyous.
As for the other two samples tasted, I took initial tasting notes and have popped them down below, but hope to upload a fuller description soon.
The 02 vintage:
Appearance: Bright with straw
Nose: Light straw and runny honey with vibrant green leaf, unripe peach and apricot. Huge lift of green apple and light floral notes.
Palate: Light spice of cinnamon and fresh oak with peppery grip before lighter honey and stone fruit flows through.
69 vintage: 42 yr old. RRP £1500
Appearance: Warm gold with bright flecks.
Nose: Multiple layers of rich fruit both common and tropical. The complex nose shifts and changes constantly. Marmalade and Dundee cake, linseed oil and putty with Rancio notes mixed with warm antique yacht varnish. When the initial rich and heady nose calms, floral honeysuckle and jasmine emerge.
Palate: Complex from the outset. Rich, warm and very inviting fruity notes, with a coffee/date dryness. Throughout, always a fresh element of citrus lifting the richness away from becoming clawing on the palate. Lingering light spice, candied fruit peel and a curious dry smoke element, almost peat like which makes you wonder if this particular bottling had seen some peat from those days when they malted on sight.
If you are not familiar with the Balblair range, then I suggest you try some straight away. Recent vintages are lively and fruity with a typically “coastal” edge to the character whilst the older examples thicken and become enriched, yet still manage a degree of freshness. There are plenty of releases to buy here.
