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Built to last- Balvenie tun 1401 and Church’s (shoes)

There are things in life you purchase or do and you just know you made the right choice. You might have deliberated for quite some time before making the steps to create it or purchase it, but at the completion, you know it was worth it.

On a recent trip to Edinburgh, A friend of mine took me through the entire production history of Church’s shoes, an item I have long promised myself. They are not just shoes, they are the best shoes made in the world and the last remaining brand to be fully made in the UK. Although they are owned by Prada, the production remains in Northampton and none of the process is outsourced, unlike many of the other UK luxury shoe brands- even my beloved Grensons have part of the build take place in other countries.

Church’s was founded in 1873 by Thomas Church and his three sons Alfred, William and Thomas Jr., who could count on family experience in the production of handmade men’s shoes dating back to 1675. They were pioneers in shoemaking, actually creating the first pair of “left” and “right” shaped shoes and “in six widths in every conceivable style and material”

It takes over 8 weeks to create a pair of mens shoes, with over 250 manual operations taking place before it leaves the factory. A craft approach to the shoes which delivers exceptional quality and ever changing innovation.

I had to try a few pairs on to “experience” the history- and of course the pair I instantly took a liking to were the most expensive! The Shannon, in burgundy, made with horse leather….if it wasn’t for the £545 price tag, I would be wearing them now as I type this. All good things come to those who wait (and my friend does offer an amazing discount!).

If those shoes were in my possession now, I would have also worn them to the Savoy hotel today to taste the latest batch of the tun 1401 release from Balvenie.

The ‘tun’ is a marrying tank into which selected casks are emptied and held for a short period to integrate before being bottled, this being the 5th release. The first batch was released just at the distillery, the second made it on to the UK domestic market whilst Batch 3 hopped over to the USA and number 4 was only available in Travel Retail (Duty Free). The tun holds around 2000 litres so each release is quite limited and of course, each differs. This latest was from just 9 selected casks, 4 ex sherry butts and 5 ex bourbon. Each cask is hand pumped into the tun, using an original cast hand pump which is reputed to have been used by William Grant himself. It really doesn’t get much more authentic than this- the innovative ideas of the master distiller David Stewart connecting with the tradition and history of the distillery.

David, who is approaching his 50th year at Balvenie, and is the longest serving distiller at any Scottish (or the world) distillery, was making a rare appearance to discuss his selection process and final marrying of the 9 casks, the oldest of which was from 1966 with the rest from around the 70′s. Within this latest batch were whiskies between 21 to 46 years old. David is a pioneer of whisky and was in fact the individual who started to use sequential maturation in different wood (shifting whisky from one cask to the next to enhance flavour). A common practice these day is every distillery in the world, but before David had brought this innovation, it was unheard of – like left and right shoes!

Its all about hand crafting, personal selecting, careful nurturing and holding the whole process in house to ensure consistency and quality control. Fortunately, this bottle of skilfully crafted whisky will retail for £161, thats nearly three and a half bottles per pair of Church’s…bargain! If only I didn’t want both.

Balvenie tun 1401 Batch No.5

50.1% Non chill filtered

Appearance: Golden Copper with light virgin olive oil greenness.

Nose: Big honey, clove spice and trails of coca powder at first with the richness of the sherry butt coming through later. Lots of lively sappy wood and fresh fruits underpinned with rich citrus, cherry and molasses. Rolling around is an unusual (for Balvenie) waxy/carbolic notes with a floral element.

Palate: Huge chunks of spicy honey, rich cooked fruits and then a chocolate/coffee bitterness calms the sweetness to reveal those malty notes and a hint of smoke (some of the casks are old enough to show this historic character). Chewy wood notes of sweet maple and cedar.

Finish:Lingering sweetness of fruit perfectly balanced with bitter cocoa nibs and woody elements.

There are plenty of other similar ties with Church’s and whisky- like the use of oak to build the sole of the shoes, the continued innovation in technique, but above all its the craftsmanship and care that is put into producing each one. Something that will hopefully remain for a very long time. Or at least until I can afford them!

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Posted by on June 28, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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A true warrior – Highland Park 50 year old

Apparently, the schoolchildren from the Orkney isles have a bit of trouble understanding that they are Scottish. They do know they are British, but it troubles their minds to comprehend they are Scottish such is the uniqueness of this cluster of islands just 10 miles off the north east coast. I suppose it is easily understood, after all it has had it’s fair share of ownership via Norway and the vikings using it as a bit of a stop-over for raids into Scotland and Ireland. It is certainly a checkered and interesting past with plenty of folklore and factual history to draw upon which is why the Highland Park distillery in Kirkwall is such an interesting one. Yeah sure, there are countless sites on the mainland with tales to tell but it seems to me that this wee corner of “Scotland” ticked along quite nicely without much interference from the mainland. Perhaps the ferry was too expensive for the excise man?

Nice then, that I got the chance to taste a bit of Orcandian history for myself in the form of the Highland Park 50 year old. It’s not a new release by any stretch, as the first bottles were available early last year- but at £10,000 per bottle there are few in the world lucky enough to taste it. I was happy to wait till now.

The oldest ever release from the distillery was given to us by Daryl Haldane, Highland Park brand ambassador and general nice guy- which is surprising as he is from Fife, which is not know for many happy people.

Highland park 50 yr old.

Vatting of two refill European ex-sherry cask

44.8% ABV

1 of 275 bottles.

Bottled designed by Maeve Gillies

Price: £10,000

Appearance: Deep burnished copper with rose gold

Nose: First notes are of heavy honey and rich maple with well polished leather, dried orange peel and new hide. A more perfumed element emerges of light clove and polished woods such as mahogany with a hint of brandy butter. Beyond all of this, a leafy green oil note emerges, similar to hop heads.

Palate: As expected, the palate is huge. Rich and chewy with those leather elements turning peppery then waves of the more prominent hop leaf again. The mid palate is nutty (almonds and brazil) with rich marzipan and a note of burnt plum. Surprisingly, the palate lifts towards the end with peppermint and fennel followed by liquorice.

Finish : Sweet and juicy soft liquorice takes over now allowing this massive dram to remain entertaining and offering a supreme lingering finish.

Normally a whisky of above average age is really hard to pull apart with the aromas and flavours so well integrated that they just merge into one. But the amazing thing with this is that even a couple of days after writing my initial notes and going back to try the last remaining dram the notes stand out incredibly. Every element is in there and each note rolls up to say hello in the most eloquent of fashions.

Only two venues in London stock a bottle, Dorchester Bar at the Dorchester and the newly opened Bulgari hotel, the latter of which is where we were fortunate enough to try this whisky. The bottle itself is said to be worth around £2,500, designed by jeweller Maeve Gillies, the solid silver casing that wraps around the bottle like a sinuous web of precious metal depicts all that is Orcadian. A visitor to the beautiful Orkney islands since a child, Maeve conveyed a natural and nautical theme in her Sterling silver bottle, evoking ropes, twisted seaweed and a metal finish that looked like it could have been a very old and precious object, discovered washed up on the beach. Set on the front is a disc of genuine Orcadian pink sandstone carved with Highland Park’s logo, sourced from the original quarry that built the incredible 12th century St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Behind this disc, viewable through the glass when the whisky has been finished, is an ethereal silver replica of the beautiful rose window inside the Cathedral.
The bottle is presented in a hand-carved Scottish oak box, also shaped to feel worn by wild elements, and set with a silver and glass porthole, through which the Highland Park logo on the bottle inside can just be viewed.

Each bottle is stamped with a silver hallmark, and in keeping with Highland Park’s policy of non sequential numbering, this one simply states 1 of 275 rather than bottle number one or two of 275.

So is it worth it? Well if you deduct the bottle price and look at the value of the liquid, then it isn’t an outlandish price for such a fabulous whisky. There are plenty others out there commanding far higher. Remember though, my rule for bottles with this kind of price tag, if you are going to buy it make sure you buy two- one to keep and one to share.

Now, at the end of the tasting session, (we also tried 12, 18, Thor and 21) I took a tour of the hotel and stopped off in the cigar room. This room is London’s only internal cigar room (its a loophole I can’t be bothered going into now- basically as shop) which is run by Davidoff cigar merchants on St James. I sat with Eddie, the son in the “father & son” operation and chatted about the comparison of whisky and cigars. Eddie then presented me with two beautiful cigars, which were hand rolled just two weeks prior. Alas, I couldn’t enjoy them in the lush surroundings as I had another tasting to dash off to- and I knew I might not give the other whisky a chance with HP 50 and a cigar on the palate. But I did ask about the cigars to add to the enjoyment later.

Eddie told me that they were the “Beaujolais” of cigars- to be enjoyed young and fresh. They had in fact been hand rolled just two weeks prior by Señora Dilia Hernandez who had arrived in the UK in May and was scheduled to attend various events and Habanos Specialists until her return to Cuba at the end of July. To enjoy them at their peak, they would have to be smoked within a week. I certainly wasn’t about to test that 7 day limit.

Señora Hernandez began her career in the cigar industry 20 years ago and has achieved the highest grade of cigar roller within the Cuban industry. Not only is she well respected, but Señora Hernandez also rolls cigar leaf in a traditional manner known as “entubado bunch” or entubar – a bunching technique which rolls each filler leaf into itself, almost like a small scroll. Each individually “scrolled” leaf is then placed together to form the bunch. This skillful rolling technique creates a more firmly packed cigar which allows air to travel between all of the leaves, carrying more aromatics/flavors to the palate. Entubado rolling is the most difficult and complex bunching method and is therefore rarely employed in large scale manufacturing.

I was now the proud possesor of two of these freshly rolled beauties and I can tell you, by the time the weekend was over, both had died a graceful death.

So from the oldest of whiskies to the freshest of cigars. Some would say it was quite a nice way to start the weekend.

 
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Posted by on June 22, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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The Glenfiddich and the Savoy

I love the Savoy, always have. From days when I used to run the Lobby Bar at One Aldwych and nip across the road fr a swift one on a split shift, or more leisurely attendances tucked into the soft chairs of the American Bar. I was lucky enough to be invited back to the opening night of London’s Grand Old Lady after her rather pricey facelift (shh, never draw attention to a woman who has had a bit of work done).

So I was delighted indeed to be asked to judge the Glenfiddich Malt Master competition last Monday at the Beaufort Bar of the Savoy.

And in true style, the moment you walk through the doors you are made to feel so welcome ( I had at least put a jacket on this time!)

Passing through the various hallways and vestibules en route to the Beaufort Bar where
the event was to take place, the world was waking up to breakfast. All around me were delicious looking plates of food, salmon, croissant, fresh coffee and of course the pin stripe suited men, shod in Berluti’s alongside ladies who seem to not only lunch, but brunch and breakfast also.

Continuing into the sumptuous haven of the Beaufort with its dark velvet upholstered furniture, imposing gold art and heavy set walls picked out by the most ornate gold leafed rococo architraves and cornice, it does takes ones breath away at first.

The back bar had been laid out with a fine selection of Glenfiddich single malt- 12, 15, 18, 21, 30, 40 and even the 50 were on show- as well as a sneaky looking box with a 19 yr old in it.

Jamie Milne UK ambassador for Glenfiddich, along with Chris Moore of the Beaufort Bar, Dominic Roskow and myself made up the judging panel for the 8 finalists who were from the four corners of the UK :

Andrew Miller – Elbow Bar, Edinburgh
Colin McMillan – The Three Judges, Glasgow
David Sinclair – The Gleneagles Hotel, Perthshire
Lorenzo Miglietta – The Library Bar at the Lanesborough Hotel, London
Michael Allan – Raconteur, Edinburgh
Paul Mortensen – Gordon’s Bar in Selfridges, London
Ross Painter – Second Floor Bar in Harvey Nichols, Bristol
Ryan Chetiyawardana – The Worship Street Whistling Shop, London

We started light introductions with each other and the Jamie lead us straight into a quick tasting- at 10am on a Monday morning – just as well we are all veterans of the drinks industry because I didn’t see a single person spit any out! Especially the 8 yr old single malt! – a recreation of the first single malt to be promoted outside the UK in 1963.

The 40% “straight malt” has been matured in Spanish and American oak and bottled at 40%.

Its pale straw and yellow gold certainly pointed to the use of more American than Spanish but what was very surprising was the nose.Big waves of putty, vanilla dry nut and book binding came before applewood, sweet fruit notes of fig and slight prune in a pastry crust. It really was quite splendid for something of its age.The palate was no less appealing with lovely warm clover and spice mellowing into mace and apple blossom with heather honey before a slight copper/fresh grass trail.The finish lingered with light and clean spice and a recurrence of herbal grass notes.

In all, a cracker of a dram. Unfortunately it is just a play round at the distillery and is not set for general release at
any point.

I have to say, the standard of drinks were incredible, and even Jamie commented on the increased level from the previous year. And the professional manner of the contestants really did make you want to know more about them and you instantly developed a trust – which is
important with your bartender I think!

David pours his winner

The winner, was David Sinclair of The Bar at the Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland with his “Equilibrium” and comprised;

 50ml Glenfiddich 18 Year Old

15ml Grant’s morello chery brandy

3 drops of Aztec chocolate bitters

Garnish: apple wood smoke.

Served in an Old Fashioned over a Japanese ice ball, the shaken liquid was strained into a glass teapot and topped up with the apple wood smoke from a smoker gun.

Dramatic stuff indeed.

After the creations, we were shown to a private dining room and served a rather splendid lunch during which our second special tasting of the day emerged.

The Glenfiddich “Age of Discovery” 19 yr old single malt Madeira finish.

A bright yellow corn appearance with warm gold. A honeyed nose with almonds, Butterscotch, vanilla sponge cake and delicate citrus of orange, cherry and some good oak. The palate dances with salty butter and rich vanilla, dark Manuka honey and nutty malt rolling in the background. A dusting of dark brown sugar and nutmeg over a ripe plum completes this long and
rewarding palate.

I cant wait to get my hands on it! And I cannot wait to see what next years competition has in store- I just hope I get an invite back.

The one drawback of holding an all day event at The Savoy? as soon as you walk outside onto the Strand- you realise you are not as rich as they made you feel!

 
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Posted by on November 11, 2011 in tasting, Uncategorized

 

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