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Talisker Port Ruighe – Classically different

It seems that Talisker fans are really being spoiled at the moment after the recent release of Talisker Storm hot on its heels (or should that be stern) we have Talisker Port Ruighe.

portree_skye_scotland_1205

Finding new names for new whisky releases must be a constant battle for the industry but at least there is always Gaelic to fall back on. Port Ruighe is named after the main port on the Isle of Skye, Portree. The town was originally know as Kiltragleann (The Church at the Foot of the Glen) but it is thought than in 1540, after a visit by King James V of Scotland to show his power over the Scottish lairds, it was renamed Portree which in the Gaelic tongue “Portrigh” means “The Kings Port“. This is often contested as some believe that the town’s name is derived from the Gaelic, “Port Ruighe” meaning “slope harbour“. Whatever the originals of the name, we do know for sure that this release has been created “as a tribute to the great Scottish trading-houses such as the Cockburns, Grahams and Symingtons who were instrumental in the creation and global growth of the port wine trade” because the press release told me so. So thats the name, what about the whisky?

Port Ruighe has been created by drawing from stock matured in American oak and European oak refill casks before being “finished” (transferred all together into another cask for a short time to draw final character) in ex-port casks called “pipes”. These final resting casks impart light fruity notes usually of strawberry or cherry to a spirit along with a faint pink hue to the colour. Like Talisker Storm, Port Ruighe has been release without an age statement and at the standard Talisker strength of 45.8% alcohol by volume.

Talisker Port Ruighe Single Malt Scotch Whisky

No Age Statement

45.8% ABV

Port Pipe Finish

RRP TBC (but circa £60)

talisker-port-ruighe_mediumres

Appearance: Rose gold with deep orange.

Nose: Deep charred cedar, spent match to the fore with rich sweet plum sponge, spiced orange marmalade, apple blossom honey backing it up to deliver a rounded, full nose of well integrated bold aromas. A creamy edge like milk bottle chews/play-do seems to linger overall whilst the peated element is kept low rather than the main focus.

Palate: Smooth and rich to begin. The complex sweet fruity notes found on the nose immediate apparent in the mouth with orchard fruits of quince, pippin apple, cherry mix before cranberry dryness. Additional sweetness is delivered in the form of honey and earthy spices with a touch of nutty chocolate. Mid palate is brought alive with a tingling mixture of cooling salt and pepper followed with coal tar soap, samphire and charred cinnamon which incredibly manages to deliver classic Talisker flavours even after all that has gone before.

Finish: It’s all about the peat now. Lingering oily seaside smoke delightfully delivered with elegance and panache. Salty, peppery and very much Talisker.

Summary: What is most interesting here is that normally port finished whisky is more about the character the port will deliver as I mentioned at the beginning. More soft red fruit is expected. But here we have a great example of using the development to integrate with a classic whisky without destroying the base “DNA”, far from it. The resulting flavours have, for me created a Talisker expression which is different enough for a fan to seek out on a regular basis without being too “out of the ordinary”. Sweeter, yes, but now overpowering so. Great stuff.

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Posted by on April 22, 2013 in tasting, Reviews, Marketing, Whisky, Education

 

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Bunnahabhain – no smoke with this fire.

When was the last time you heard someone say “Oh, I stay away from peated whisky as I’m not a fan”. I hear it in a regular basis as guests at Dramatic Whisky events come to grips with the various styles of drams on offer. But more often than not that statement is followed by “especially Islay“. Now, it’s this last part that sends me into a mini meltdown and it is truly the fault of the whisky industry from the past. Regions were to a point, a quick way of introducing people to various styles of whisky, but this lingering categorisation only serves to restrict the consumers choices rather than aid them. I wrote a bit about them here which goes into a bit more detail but basically, if you choose your whisky only by region, you’ll miss out on some gems in the whisky world which brings me neatly onto Bunnahabhain.BUnn

Bunnahabain, pronounced “Boona-haa-ven” and meaning ‘stream foot” or ‘mouth of the river’ with its location at the end of the Margadale river from where the distillery draws its water from, is located on the north-east part of the island rather isolated in comparison to the other distilleries on Islay. Since 1881 the distillery has been producing whisky and whilst it was true that at that point the whisky would have been peated, today it is one of only two distilleries on Isaly that does not have peated whisky as its “core release” the other being Bruichladdich. With its own floor maltings ceasing in 1963 its safe to say the change probably came some time around then.

So what of the whisky today? The most easily accessible are the 12, 18 and 25 year old whiskies with Toiteach as the limited edition “peated” style all at the higher abv of 46.3% and non chill-filtered, a move in recent times across the board from current owners Burn Stewart Distillers and welcomed by Bunnahabhain fans. I also had the good fortune to review the recent 40 year old release which was a stunning dram indeed. Bunnahabhain has always been a whisky I would opt for if I saw it on a back bar somewhere as its coastal style and soft character is just what I look for in my malts.

Bunnahabhain 12 year old Single Malt Whisky

Ex Bourbon Caskbunnahabhain-12

46.3% ABV

Non Chill FIltered

RRP £30

Appearance: Pale white gold

Nose: If ever a whisky had an aroma of its origins, this is it. Fresh sea air on a Scottish pebble beach. Samphire over driftwood and lifts of fresh ginger.

Palate: Chewy and rich with fresh ginger creams, malty mid palate and salted caramel. Warming yet still fresh notes of the sea.

Finish: Ginger and vanilla spice linger with a hint of earthy mocha.

Bunnahabhain 18 year old Single Malt Whisky

Ex Sherry Caskbun 18

46.3% abv

Non Chill Filtered

RRP £55

Appearance:  Polished bronze

Nose:The DNA of the seaside emerges first, salty air, tarry ropes wrapped in leather with bold sherry character. Date and fig loaf sprinkled with nutmeg and an espresso on the side.

Palate: Big on the sherry influence, spiced with mace, leather and hints of pipe tobacco and roasted brazil nut. There is still the core message of salted sweetness blended through this bold palate.

Finish: Waves of salty almonds washed down with sherry and a bundle of earthy spices behind.

Bunnahabhain 25 year old Single Malt Whisky

Ex Sherry caskbun 28

46.3%

Non Chill Filtered

RRP £200

Appearance: Deep  bronze

Nose: Sweet leather and cherry wood polished with linseed oil. Rich spices, old velvet, driftwood and tarry rope - the nose twists and turns around the central elements.

Palate: Bursting with rich deep sherry soaked dark fruits, mixed spice and Demerara sugar. It seems spiky at first, but is instantly calmed by a creamy vanilla element, smooths out and relaxes leaving behind a trail of deliciousness.

Finish: Incredibly long, old leather, slight tannin grip and a hint of over roasted chestnut almost charred.

Bunnahabhain Toiteach Single Malt Whisky

Ex Bourbon Caskbuntt

46%

Non chill filtered

RRP £50

Appearance: Pale straw

Nose: Immediate peat smoke but with an unmistakable coastal character. Sweet salty air and drifts of dry citrus peel (tangerine) in the background. Old fish and chips wrapper with a bit of honey, vanilla and samphire all in there.

Palate: A sweet smoke, rich and playful on the palate, parma ham and smoked figs with  a slightly medicinal citrus edge somewhere between menthol and lime.

Finish: unsurprisingley it’s the sweeter side of the peat smoke that lingers, turning slightly salty at the end.

Summary: A fine line-up indeed with just about everythign you could ask for. The style is eveident throughout the range despite the change of cask, that coastal element shines and helps maintain the Bunnahabhain message.

 

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English whisky sells out (in a good way)

The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show is but a distant memory for most now, but of course the problem often remains that I never get a chance to catch up on all the lovely samples I end up with. However, thanks to a recent email from The English Whisky Company informing me of their newset batch of releases, namely the Founders Private Cellar Single Casks, I was reminded of the three samples I tried at the show. A quick scan through the old faithful Moleskine notebook revealed a rather well set out list of tasting notes (it must have been early on I tried them!)

James Nelstrop, founder and owner of The English Whisky Company, along with his team of distillers David Fitt  and Iain Henderson have been carefully watching some selected cask of rather curious concoctions (more about that later)- but then they can do what they want cant they.

And thats exactly what they have done.

During the whisky show, David gave me a small bottle of new make spirit and asked me for my thoughts on it. It was (one of) Davids little experiment with, as he put it “anything that will go through the mash”. David used to be a brewer, so is pretty familiar with various barley types and the yield and resilience of them. It was just another day at the office for David when he was offered free range of the distillery to see what he could produce. He must have felt a little like a kid in a sweet shop which is probably why he chose chocolate malt as well as malted barley, crystal malt , oats, rye and wheat to make up his mad brew. If you ever get the chance to meet David and buy him a pint- As I have on many an occasion, he will probably go for a porter style ale- dark and rich in both colour and flavour, bursting with chocolate an coffee notes. So its unsurprising to find that the resulting new make was- to say the least, complex and delicious with heady notes of whole pears dipped in milk chocolate- I cannot wait to see how that turns out once its spent a respectable amount of time in oak- and I am sure the choice of cask will be just as experimental. Having tasted the new make, I would expect an ale or rum finish to partner well.

Anyway- at the show I also had the chance to sample the three new single cask releases which are just as “experimental” and as they were released on October 17th (yesterday as this blog was written) it seemed a good time to share my notes- well, except that the distillery have already sold out of all but the Peated Sauternes!

Triple Distilled

Cask No. 0116 Filled 12th Sept 2007

Bottled 19th Sept 2012

60.8% abv

Appearance: Apple white with pale gold

Nose: (with water) Apple sponge cake with elderflowers and an undertone of malty warm buttered chocolate digestive. Elements of hedgerow and blackcurrant leaf with a slight eucalyptus oil rubbed into fresh oak.

Palate: At first, bright and youthful with vanillin and oak but quickly opens (with water) to reveal similar creamy notes found on the nose mixed with fresh, edgy herbs and fruit. Eucalyptus becomes more mild aniseed.

Finish: Rounded to the end with a slight coca feel and light oak.

Summary: Not for the feint hearted and certainly requires a drop of water before jumping in, but with this much going on at just 5 years old- it stands it in good stead for the future.

Peated Sauternes cask

Cask No.0787 Filled 12th Sept 2007

Bottled 1st Oct 2012

61.1% abv

Appearance: Wet hay with yellow gold

Nose: Very savoury with acorn, mushroom, weetabix, and burnt toast spread with apricot jam. Brown wrapping paper. iodine and wet and dry sandpaper.

Plate: Creamy and initially sweet then driving peat powers through releasing delicious grippy spice. White pepper with burnt rubber and ginger root.

Finish: Lingering peat “bite” with earth tones dry the palate but leave you licking your gums for more.

Summary: A great balance between spirit and cask. Still available to buy at £125 RRP.

Port Cask

Cask No. 0859 Filled 20th June 2007

Bottled: 21st Sept 2012

59.3% abv

Appearance: Pale marmalade with a rose hue

Nose: Jammy notes of blackforrest gateaux, kirsh and cinnamon. A “fresh” notes of cut nettle stems and perhaps tarragon before the plump fruitiness becomes darker and more straw-like.

Palate: Strawberries and cream with cracked black pepper. Cream vanilla fudge and an earthy note of mushroom butter. Light cinnamon spice helps dry the palate.

Finish: The fruit turns earthy, but in a good way, allowing the spice and vanilla to linger a little longer.

Summary: Soft, fruity, candied yet not overly sweet this is a perfect balance of cask and spirit.

I really like the mindset of this company, a simple approach to creating interesting products- unencumbered by tradition or bureaucracy they are chipping away at the traditionalists one by one who cannot deny that, it might not be scotch, but its a damn fine dram.

 
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Posted by on October 19, 2012 in tasting, Uncategorized

 

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The (almost) ultimate guide to whisky & food matching

I have been promising this for a while now, and every time I sit down and begin, something interrupts me.

So here it is, the Dramatic whisky guide to food matching with malt. Good timing actually, because most people will reach for a bottle at some point over the next two weeks, and I bet you it is after the meal, which is such a shame.

Lets start

Remember, the whole idea of a sherry at the beginning of a meal is to increase saliva, get the digestion juices flowing so to speak, so a dry or even salt/mineral whisky will do just that and lets face it- far tastier than sherry!

My choices this year for canapes at events have been things like:

Oak smoked brown trout

Wild mushroom tartlets

Poached quails egg with truffle dressing

Seared tuna with wasabi

Grilled chorizo and Scallop

crumbled parmesan and basil

All of the above are designed to enliven the palate with either spice, citrus or earth flavours and all can be underpinned with a similar whisky. I would always choose something which has been aged in virgin oak (not contained any other spirit prior) such as The Glenlivet 15 yr old French Oak Reserve with its lively spice notes and mineral finish or the Bunnahabhain Darach Ur (which means new wood in Gaelic) or Auchentoshan Classic which although is not from new wood, has light white peach notes (think peach Bellini) and compliments pastry and citrus well.

Soup

Always a tricky one to get people’s heads around, but actually, richer cream based soups or ones from roasted veggies work well with deeper malts.

Cullen Skink- tastes better than it sounds

Cullen Skink

Roasted red pepper

Mushroom

French onion

You can split these into two different style of malt: Creamy and rounded or rich and earthy. Both styles will actually work well with the above soups, but I also like using something with a citrus lift to cut through cream. Jura Superstition is ideal with creamier fish based soups such as Skink, and the light smoke lifts the dish wonderfully. Dalmore 15 and Glenfiddich 15 both work with those sweeter style or earthy soup such as the red pepper and carrot, giving subtle weight behind the richer flavours. The use of sherry cask with Dalmore helps bring rounded spice of mace and roasted fruit whilst the unique Solera system employed on the Glenfiddich 15 adds a similar richness and a deeper Christmas cake note without being to over sweet.

The main event

Now, I know its christmas, but the idea was to do this feature for any meal, or at least for a range of foods. Lets avoid turkey-please! and think about the main foodstuffs that we can enjoy here.

Deer - but worth it

Roast chicken, mash and rich gravy

Steak, chips and red wine jus

Halibut with cream sauce and green beans

Venison, spinach and redcurrent jus

Stir fry vegetables chilli seasoned with soy

There are a number of drams to choose from , but he main meal is often the richest, even in terms of a fish dish there is normally a heavier butter or cream combination. Even the stir fry has a heady character with the soy and chili so what to choose? Well, the white dishes (chicken and fish) I would grab a bottle of Scapa 16, Glenrothes Select Reserve or Old Pulteny 17 year old (my personal favourite) all are great drams with a little salty bite and light citrus backbone and light warming vanilla in contrast. Most of the Glentrothes range will offer this but less salty and more nutty that the other two. For the meat dishes, go bold- Aberlour A’Bunadh, Glenlivet 18, Fettercairn Fior or Springbank 15 all offer good body with different traits such as a slight olive note to the Springbank, or the rich leather and polished wood of the a’Bunadh. For the stir fry with chilli, grab the Springbank again, or maybe even a Bladnoch Distiller Choice or a Highland Park 12 to cut through the heat but compliment the soy.

Sticky and Sweet

And onto the puddings. Again, the variety of desserts to choose from are vast, cold ice cream, light lemon posset, or sticky toffee pudding? Well, I like to compliment any type of dessert with a nutty orange malt, something that simply crates a warm caramel feel that basically any sweet taste will work well with.

Oh my sweet

Balvenie Signature with its famed house style of honey and rich spice or Dalmore 18 year oldGlenfiddich 21 with

its delicious rum cask finish, Glengoyne 17, Yamazaki 18 or Auchentoshan Three Wood to really get the sweet spices going.

 

 

Cheese and the rest (coffee if you must )

Cheese, seems like we only ever tried to match it with port and wine…but hold on, surely this is actually one of the better matches for whisky? all that cream, lactose, dairy fats (yup, there isn’t much that’s good about it other than the taste!) is crying out for something with  good alcohol content to rinse the palate and clean the taste buds. Enter stage left-WHISKY!

insert cheesy caption here...

Scottish blue- Ardbeg Uigeadail, Talisker 10, Old Pulteney 12

Mature Cheddar Clynelish 14, Glenlivet 16 , Balvenie Single Barrel 15

Goats (old)- Aberlour 10, Royal Lochnagar 12, Macallan 10 fine oak

Hard ewes cheese- Highland Park 12, Glen Ord 12 , Bowmore 10

And there are even some I would recommend to cover all of the above- Balvenie 17 Peated cask whilst it is still available, Glemorangie Quinta Ruban (port finish) and Whyte & Mackay 22 yr old (yes I know- but have you tried it? its awesome!)

Now, the last remaining pairing would be whilst you sit back and try to digest your own body weight- but you still can’t help reaching over for the box of Charbonnel et Walker chocolates you were given from Santa… and it would be foolish of me to divulge the amazing pairings that’s work here, so why not sign up for some of the Dramatic Whisky - Whisky and Chocolate classes held throughout January, February and March in London and get first hand experience of this divine combination - you could cycle there to work off the Christmas excess!

 

 
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Posted by on December 21, 2011 in tasting

 

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