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English whisky sells out (in a good way)

The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show is but a distant memory for most now, but of course the problem often remains that I never get a chance to catch up on all the lovely samples I end up with. However, thanks to a recent email from The English Whisky Company informing me of their newset batch of releases, namely the Founders Private Cellar Single Casks, I was reminded of the three samples I tried at the show. A quick scan through the old faithful Moleskine notebook revealed a rather well set out list of tasting notes (it must have been early on I tried them!)

James Nelstrop, founder and owner of The English Whisky Company, along with his team of distillers David Fitt  and Iain Henderson have been carefully watching some selected cask of rather curious concoctions (more about that later)- but then they can do what they want cant they.

And thats exactly what they have done.

During the whisky show, David gave me a small bottle of new make spirit and asked me for my thoughts on it. It was (one of) Davids little experiment with, as he put it “anything that will go through the mash”. David used to be a brewer, so is pretty familiar with various barley types and the yield and resilience of them. It was just another day at the office for David when he was offered free range of the distillery to see what he could produce. He must have felt a little like a kid in a sweet shop which is probably why he chose chocolate malt as well as malted barley, crystal malt , oats, rye and wheat to make up his mad brew. If you ever get the chance to meet David and buy him a pint- As I have on many an occasion, he will probably go for a porter style ale- dark and rich in both colour and flavour, bursting with chocolate an coffee notes. So its unsurprising to find that the resulting new make was- to say the least, complex and delicious with heady notes of whole pears dipped in milk chocolate- I cannot wait to see how that turns out once its spent a respectable amount of time in oak- and I am sure the choice of cask will be just as experimental. Having tasted the new make, I would expect an ale or rum finish to partner well.

Anyway- at the show I also had the chance to sample the three new single cask releases which are just as “experimental” and as they were released on October 17th (yesterday as this blog was written) it seemed a good time to share my notes- well, except that the distillery have already sold out of all but the Peated Sauternes!

Triple Distilled

Cask No. 0116 Filled 12th Sept 2007

Bottled 19th Sept 2012

60.8% abv

Appearance: Apple white with pale gold

Nose: (with water) Apple sponge cake with elderflowers and an undertone of malty warm buttered chocolate digestive. Elements of hedgerow and blackcurrant leaf with a slight eucalyptus oil rubbed into fresh oak.

Palate: At first, bright and youthful with vanillin and oak but quickly opens (with water) to reveal similar creamy notes found on the nose mixed with fresh, edgy herbs and fruit. Eucalyptus becomes more mild aniseed.

Finish: Rounded to the end with a slight coca feel and light oak.

Summary: Not for the feint hearted and certainly requires a drop of water before jumping in, but with this much going on at just 5 years old- it stands it in good stead for the future.

Peated Sauternes cask

Cask No.0787 Filled 12th Sept 2007

Bottled 1st Oct 2012

61.1% abv

Appearance: Wet hay with yellow gold

Nose: Very savoury with acorn, mushroom, weetabix, and burnt toast spread with apricot jam. Brown wrapping paper. iodine and wet and dry sandpaper.

Plate: Creamy and initially sweet then driving peat powers through releasing delicious grippy spice. White pepper with burnt rubber and ginger root.

Finish: Lingering peat “bite” with earth tones dry the palate but leave you licking your gums for more.

Summary: A great balance between spirit and cask. Still available to buy at £125 RRP.

Port Cask

Cask No. 0859 Filled 20th June 2007

Bottled: 21st Sept 2012

59.3% abv

Appearance: Pale marmalade with a rose hue

Nose: Jammy notes of blackforrest gateaux, kirsh and cinnamon. A “fresh” notes of cut nettle stems and perhaps tarragon before the plump fruitiness becomes darker and more straw-like.

Palate: Strawberries and cream with cracked black pepper. Cream vanilla fudge and an earthy note of mushroom butter. Light cinnamon spice helps dry the palate.

Finish: The fruit turns earthy, but in a good way, allowing the spice and vanilla to linger a little longer.

Summary: Soft, fruity, candied yet not overly sweet this is a perfect balance of cask and spirit.

I really like the mindset of this company, a simple approach to creating interesting products- unencumbered by tradition or bureaucracy they are chipping away at the traditionalists one by one who cannot deny that, it might not be scotch, but its a damn fine dram.

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Posted by on October 19, 2012 in tasting, Uncategorized

 

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Bar Wizards, Spirit Sorcerers and Yamazaki

Manchester saw an invasion earlier this week as over 20 bartenders, drinks experts and the management team of Drinking Classes arrived to set the world, or at least the corner of Manchester we had chosen, to rights. Drinking Classes, the name taken for the quotation from Oscar Wilde “Work is the curse of the drinking classes” is the big brother of Dramatic Whisky covering gin, vodka, rum, tequila, wine and other spirit and liqueur tasting events around the UK. Each class is headed up by knowledgeable presenters working independently of brands to deliver an entertaining and informative event.  Dramatic Whisky was to be first up from the gathered experts as we trained our newest batch of guys and girls.

We were very honoured to be invited to Bar Wizards Lounge in Littleborough just outside Manchester which would become our base for the next three days. Run by Neil Lowrey and Neil Garner (don’t Google them, they get embarrassed easily) the guys set out to impress with strong coffee and bacon rolls on day one. It was only going to get better from here on in. The bar is set in the centre of a village a short train journey out of Manchester on the northern edge of the Peak District. A detached Georgian building of certain grandeur set back from the road, elevated amidst the more average looking buildings that surround it. One would be forgiven to think there was not much more to it that your average boozer but how wrong you would be. Firstly, the knowledge of spirits behind the bar is in line with the amazing selection- especially whisky and tequilla. Unusual bottling, rare finds and all of the highest standard.

No bad from a couple of flair bartenders!

In particular there seemed to be a plethora of Japanese and Taiwanese offerings- as always I had my trusty sample bottles on hand so reviews will be popping up elsewhere on the blog soon! After the initial introduction and a live Dramatic Whisky tasting an excellent lunch was served to us with a Scottish twist on all the four course utilising whisky wherever possible. Not only were the whiskies chosen spot on for each course, but the presentation and flavours from the food itself was outstanding- remember, this is, from all appearances, a bar in the middle of a village run by two ex flair bartenders! The Kavalan single malt used in the whisky sauce which accompanied a small breaded disk of Black Pudding and haggis, followed by smoked salmon and a dram of Yamazaki Puncheon. The meal continued with slow braised shoulder of beef finished with a fresh fruit meringue, Eton Mess style and a deep fried Mars Bar on the side. First time for most trying this so very Scottish delight, and not a single one was left behind.

YamazakiPuncheon“ Cira £65

480ltr cask allowing slow maturation and less colour.

48% ABV

No- Age but 8-11 yr old most probably

Non-Chill Filtered

Colour: Light straw

Nose: At first, quite lively and forceful which is not that much of a surprise considering the ABV and cask. But give it time and big hits of caramel and vanilla come bounding out, followed closely buy baked fruits of the forest and crumble with creamy vanilla custard. Toffee apple on an oak stick twists through the background.

Palate: At natural strength, the alcohol certainly makes itself know- but once over this it opens up to deliver pretty much what it promised on the nose.

Finish: Its powerful and at first dry spice becomes soft cream covered fruits and lingers.

The buzz in the room, not only from the service and quality of the food, but the excitement of the Drinking Classes programme about to be rolled out was palpable. As I looked around, every place at the table was seated with some expert or other in their chosen drinks field. It would be a fun filled couple of days with a refreshments stop on Wednesday night at The Liars Club which continued the fabulous welcome Manchester had given us into the very small hours even although there were several days of training ahead….but this is training right?

After the three days of “intense” training it was time to return to London and put all the knowledge into action but not before I took a little look over the bar bar to sneak a few samples to review. Hopefully I will get them up over the next few days.

 
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Posted by on September 5, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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This blog is about whisky.

Sometimes, in this fast-moving, noise laden world we live in, a company gets it spot on when naming a brand or product. Spandex for example, even the mention of the word makes you want to stretch it out like the word was made from the elastic itself, ‘Ssspannndex’ or snap it short with forceful pronunciation.

Spandex: Be careful which colour you choose!

But some, however, get it terribly wrong and leave us laughing in the aisles. Now granted this is normally through poor translation or a misunderstanding or cultural difference as we see in the example below. Worrying still, is perhaps this brand of crisp is actually being very honest about what is inside!

Well, at least no MSG!

TV adverts do a similar thing, and despite having perhaps a shorter window of opportunity, there is a fine line between popping a product in our busy minds for later, or loosing it along with the remote control down the back of the sofa. I like Iggy Pop, he has always been viewed as a bit of a wild rocker and sticking it to the man (any man I think) but when Iggy and his crinkly spitting image doll made an appearance in a recent TV advert, it was kind of lost. For a start, those most worried about getting cheap car insurance are no doubt first time drivers or those under 25 years old. They probably don’t even know who Iggy Pop (or Spitting Image) is. So, pointless advert really. Now, what is it they are selling again, oh yes, car insurance…but which company? That fat opera singer gets it spot one because all he does is repeat the company name.

Viagra or Horlicks?

It’s all about trying to cut through the noise of all the advertising around us and get your brand to stand out the most, be remembered or deliver on expectation. Then there are the brands which keep it simple and state what it does or contains. Ronseal, for years have not only stated plainly what it is the product is inside, but also what it does. So much so that the TV adverts which followed used this as a main marketing message and it even became a turn of phrase in the urban dialect “does exactly what it says on the tin”. A catchy slogan, a real bit of advertising and a message delivered. simples!

Wemyss Malt Whisky has always had a wee bit of a problem. A family name, a castle, hundred of years of provenance behind it yet a name even most Scots struggle with (It’s “Wee-mz” by the way). So those clever chaps at Wemyss thought of another way of delivering the malt message call it as they see it.

Wemyss is an old Scots word for “caves” and along the east coast of Scotland, in particular the kingdom of Fife, there are caves a plenty. Mostly created by the torrents of the north sea crashing against the softer sandstone of the area over countless millennia.  Atop a section of cliff on this coastline stand Wemyss castle,

Standing proud over the shoreline

on land that the residing family have had for generations. The link to whisky isn’t just their own love of it, but in fact barley that grows on the Wemyss estate is still used today by distillers across Scotland and furthermore, John Haig (of Haig’s whisky) built his first distillery on the very land the family owned.

Wemyss blended malts first caught my attention a few years back whilst browsing the shelves of a wine shop in Oundle called Amps. Amps always had such a fabulous range of wines and spirits and the rounded dumpy bottles of Wemyss with pastel shade labels and curious names certainly made me stop. This was the clever bit from the company. A different looking bottle that certainly stood out and simple, all-educating names across the front. Forget the fact that you couldn’t pronounce who made it, the fact that the range boasted expressions such as “Peat Chimney“, “Smooth Gentleman” , “Toffee Apple” and  ”The Hive” will leave you in no doubt about its contents. Although, i must admit, i still have a problem with the Smooth Gentleman, having never tasted one myself, I am unsure just how he would compare to the whisky. But it is the single cask releases that I am most in love with.

Third party bottling’s are of course nothing new, and as Wemyss are not actually distillers themselves, they are such a group. Selecting casks from distilleries and, in some cases, re-casking them to create a different character, Wemyss have a damn fine range to offer. Three of the most recent releases came to me a few weeks ago, but I am ashamed to say I just hadn’t had the time to review them until now.

The first is a 1996 offering named “Smokehouse”. It is 1 of only 363 bottles and was removed from the cask to be popped into a bottle in 2011, oh, and like so many Wemyss whiskies, 46% abv. On closer inspection, we are told that the original whisky came from Caol Ila and from the number of bottles from this single cask,  one would expect the nose to soften and be less forceful that a standard Caol Ila expression. we shall see!

Appearance: Strangely “green” like pale olive oil and gold

Like watching paint dry

Nose: Beautiful aromas of ripe pineapple, pine cone and sliced parma ham and salt encrusted driftwood next to a beach bonfire. Smoke and iodine is in there, of course, but in such an integrated it comes over as a “cured” note rather than the expected “live” smoke.

Palate: Spicy smoke gives way to liquorice root and light creamy medicinal notes. Balanced chewy cereal and salty butter and hay.

Finish: Lingering drifts of salty seaside air, light cured meat and herbal notes of hay finish the experience.

It’s not badly priced either for a single cask at £67.95 and can be bought here.

Next was the 1989 “rum & raisin” from the Tullibardine distillery, again casked at 46% and non-chill filtered. There were only 299 bottles of this beauty, capped off in 2011.

Notes: Tullibardine was very often used young as the main part to blends, but the single malt releases really show off the deeper floral notes.

Appearance: Pale straw with flecks of white gold.

There is no mistake about this one

Nose:  A burst of fresh flowers tied with a straw bow. Lovely light iris notes, then richer hints of creamy vanilla and shaves of light oak with hints of cocoa sprinkled with light brown sugar. Fruity yes, but maybe a bit lighter than expected.

Palate: Spicy golden syrup and cedar wood lifted with rich dried fruits. Floods of malt overtones with orange dust and pollen. Big chunks of creamy vanilla pull it all together creating a glorious mixture of rich, sweet fruit.

Finish: A deep mix of sweet wood with floral temperance.

It’s very good value, but the limited stock my see it gone before you get one. Try here.

 

Lastly, the 1982 “winter spice” from the Teaninich (teen-in-ik) distillery. A dribble below the 46% at 44.4% and only 201 bottles. sure to be a sell out product as this 29 yr old has bags of character.

Appearance: golden corn

Nose: Delivering welcome notes of fresh cereal,  sugar snap peas in a wicker basket which develops into richer tones with warm, vanilla laden oak. In all, like walking into a garden shed in the middle of summer.

Palate: Following on from the nose those earthy notes balanced with spice and green herby vegetal are all dancing around.  Rich and creamy to begin with mid palate cut with 2 day old grass clippings (excuse the pun), oregano and drier orange peel towards the pepper sweet end.

Does exactly what it says on the tin!

Finish: Warm vanilla spiced up with a lingering cinnamon and clove spiked orange.

Buy it now here before it runs out!
Wemyss may not trip off the tongue when trying to say it, but it’s no-nonsense approach to labelling is a welcome change to the countless bottles of whisky on shelves who say little if anything about the flavour inside.
 
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Posted by on March 22, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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The (almost) ultimate guide to whisky & food matching

I have been promising this for a while now, and every time I sit down and begin, something interrupts me.

So here it is, the Dramatic whisky guide to food matching with malt. Good timing actually, because most people will reach for a bottle at some point over the next two weeks, and I bet you it is after the meal, which is such a shame.

Lets start

Remember, the whole idea of a sherry at the beginning of a meal is to increase saliva, get the digestion juices flowing so to speak, so a dry or even salt/mineral whisky will do just that and lets face it- far tastier than sherry!

My choices this year for canapes at events have been things like:

Oak smoked brown trout

Wild mushroom tartlets

Poached quails egg with truffle dressing

Seared tuna with wasabi

Grilled chorizo and Scallop

crumbled parmesan and basil

All of the above are designed to enliven the palate with either spice, citrus or earth flavours and all can be underpinned with a similar whisky. I would always choose something which has been aged in virgin oak (not contained any other spirit prior) such as The Glenlivet 15 yr old French Oak Reserve with its lively spice notes and mineral finish or the Bunnahabhain Darach Ur (which means new wood in Gaelic) or Auchentoshan Classic which although is not from new wood, has light white peach notes (think peach Bellini) and compliments pastry and citrus well.

Soup

Always a tricky one to get people’s heads around, but actually, richer cream based soups or ones from roasted veggies work well with deeper malts.

Cullen Skink- tastes better than it sounds

Cullen Skink

Roasted red pepper

Mushroom

French onion

You can split these into two different style of malt: Creamy and rounded or rich and earthy. Both styles will actually work well with the above soups, but I also like using something with a citrus lift to cut through cream. Jura Superstition is ideal with creamier fish based soups such as Skink, and the light smoke lifts the dish wonderfully. Dalmore 15 and Glenfiddich 15 both work with those sweeter style or earthy soup such as the red pepper and carrot, giving subtle weight behind the richer flavours. The use of sherry cask with Dalmore helps bring rounded spice of mace and roasted fruit whilst the unique Solera system employed on the Glenfiddich 15 adds a similar richness and a deeper Christmas cake note without being to over sweet.

The main event

Now, I know its christmas, but the idea was to do this feature for any meal, or at least for a range of foods. Lets avoid turkey-please! and think about the main foodstuffs that we can enjoy here.

Deer - but worth it

Roast chicken, mash and rich gravy

Steak, chips and red wine jus

Halibut with cream sauce and green beans

Venison, spinach and redcurrent jus

Stir fry vegetables chilli seasoned with soy

There are a number of drams to choose from , but he main meal is often the richest, even in terms of a fish dish there is normally a heavier butter or cream combination. Even the stir fry has a heady character with the soy and chili so what to choose? Well, the white dishes (chicken and fish) I would grab a bottle of Scapa 16, Glenrothes Select Reserve or Old Pulteny 17 year old (my personal favourite) all are great drams with a little salty bite and light citrus backbone and light warming vanilla in contrast. Most of the Glentrothes range will offer this but less salty and more nutty that the other two. For the meat dishes, go bold- Aberlour A’Bunadh, Glenlivet 18, Fettercairn Fior or Springbank 15 all offer good body with different traits such as a slight olive note to the Springbank, or the rich leather and polished wood of the a’Bunadh. For the stir fry with chilli, grab the Springbank again, or maybe even a Bladnoch Distiller Choice or a Highland Park 12 to cut through the heat but compliment the soy.

Sticky and Sweet

And onto the puddings. Again, the variety of desserts to choose from are vast, cold ice cream, light lemon posset, or sticky toffee pudding? Well, I like to compliment any type of dessert with a nutty orange malt, something that simply crates a warm caramel feel that basically any sweet taste will work well with.

Oh my sweet

Balvenie Signature with its famed house style of honey and rich spice or Dalmore 18 year oldGlenfiddich 21 with

its delicious rum cask finish, Glengoyne 17, Yamazaki 18 or Auchentoshan Three Wood to really get the sweet spices going.

 

 

Cheese and the rest (coffee if you must )

Cheese, seems like we only ever tried to match it with port and wine…but hold on, surely this is actually one of the better matches for whisky? all that cream, lactose, dairy fats (yup, there isn’t much that’s good about it other than the taste!) is crying out for something with  good alcohol content to rinse the palate and clean the taste buds. Enter stage left-WHISKY!

insert cheesy caption here...

Scottish blue- Ardbeg Uigeadail, Talisker 10, Old Pulteney 12

Mature Cheddar Clynelish 14, Glenlivet 16 , Balvenie Single Barrel 15

Goats (old)- Aberlour 10, Royal Lochnagar 12, Macallan 10 fine oak

Hard ewes cheese- Highland Park 12, Glen Ord 12 , Bowmore 10

And there are even some I would recommend to cover all of the above- Balvenie 17 Peated cask whilst it is still available, Glemorangie Quinta Ruban (port finish) and Whyte & Mackay 22 yr old (yes I know- but have you tried it? its awesome!)

Now, the last remaining pairing would be whilst you sit back and try to digest your own body weight- but you still can’t help reaching over for the box of Charbonnel et Walker chocolates you were given from Santa… and it would be foolish of me to divulge the amazing pairings that’s work here, so why not sign up for some of the Dramatic Whisky - Whisky and Chocolate classes held throughout January, February and March in London and get first hand experience of this divine combination - you could cycle there to work off the Christmas excess!

 

 
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Posted by on December 21, 2011 in tasting

 

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The oldest Glenfiddich (drinker) in the world

I wrote this blog about 2 years ago, but having just spent more time with the main subject (both the whisky and Mr Thomson, now 105 years old) I thought I would republish it.

Its been a day of ups and downs. From travelling up and down the UK, to pulling the business together at the last-minute. So many plates to spin, so few hands to keep them spinning. But tonight I took a giant leap forward and grabbed two huge chunks of the world in each hand, setting Dramatic Whisky up for a good six months ahead. It was quite easy in retrospect.

So it was rather apt that I received a package of Glenfiddich 21 year old. A brand of whisky I have always had respect for, mostly because of my grandfather.

photo

Now, those of you who follow this blog, and I am thankful there are so many, will know that I have a soft spot for Old Pulteney due to my grandmother being born in Wick and most of my childhood memories are of her being scented with either sweet baking on her hands or else the less appealing smell of salted fish – it just seemed to be seeped into her paper-thin skin and was always around her. My gran passed away a few years ago now at the age of 96 after being married for 60 years to my grandfather. It’s funny how we think about age,  such an impossible thing to comprehend when we are young, then all of a sudden, you find yourself at an age where as a child, you would consider “old”.

My gran and grandfather were old to me, and I never knew them as anything else. I don’t think I would ever want to. They stood for something –  longevity, security, honesty - not quite sure? but as a child they were a stable factor in the world.

Now, my grandfather is still alive. 103 years old September 2011! and still lives on his own, in his own house, cooking three meals a day for himself and generally showing the rest of the world what living is all about. Upon his 100th birthday, he received a telegram from the Queen, and in his typically dry sense of humour said ” she didn’t even bother to sign it herself!” apparently you have to live to 105 before she does! His retort was to say he wouldn’t wait for her.

Alexander Ray Thomson was born in 1908 in Dundee. Never raised his voice in all his life, never driven a car, only flown on an aeroplane twice yet probably lived twice the life any of us will. He keeps himself to himself, only giving up secrets of the past when asked. Probably forgotten more than most of us will know in our own lifetime. Uses the internet, can’t be beaten at scrabble and loves a sunday roast – oh,  and Glenfiddich.

It was the first whisky I saw anyone drink, that green bottle of 12-year-old. I can still remember the bottles neatly lined up in the cupboard in the hall at Christmas. It was always, as is still the case, a sherry before dinner and a dram after. I once bought him a bottle of Caoran Reserve which was supposedly a hark back to a time when wood was replaced by peat to fire the malt during the war – he calmly remarked that he remembers it well!

He has drunk Glenfiddich all his life, straying occasionally across to Highland Park or sometimes even Talisker, but always returning to the one he knows best. And after so many years, you have to wonder..Is it just a stubborn Scottish attitude that has gotten him this far? Could he really be the oldest Glenfiddich drinker in the world?*

Now, the 21-year-old is something I don’t even think he would have tried so I think when I make my trip north next week, I will pop a wee dram into him, to share between us and talk about the more important things in life…life the weather and his last crop of tomatoes. I don’t suppose he will even care for my tasting notes, but its worth a try.

Glenfiddich 21-year-old single malt scotch whisky

Caribbean Rum Cask Finish

40% abv

Cask selection 27

Appearance: Light golden amber

Nose: Luxurious pear tatin with nutmeg, warm crusty flaky pastry,  hot, caramelised william pears and vanilla ice-cream melting through it. Overripe banana accompanies but in delicate amounts. Not overtly oaky, more cedar wood always subdued with the those  warm spiced pastry elements.

Palate: A flush of sweet pear followed by gorgeous honeyed spice. Rich and full, it envelopes the mouth releasing its full potential. Baked banana with a brown sugar crust which lead to bitter coffee notes circling around attempting to spoil the party but only add to the intricate dance of flavours.

Finish: dryer than expected from the abundance of sweet fruit and sugar notes before, but a chewy, full flavoured malt of huge, yet carefully-built proportions.

So there we have it – two amazing things, standing the test of time. Both, just as stubborn as the other when it comes to rolling over and giving in.

Three cheers for stubbornness!

*at time of reposting, he is the oldest man in Scotland as far as we can see from records. If there are older, we are not sure what brand of whisky they drink ;)

 
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Posted by on August 17, 2011 in Education, Marketing, Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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