So on June 1st, it’s once again Ardbeg Day known as “Ardbog Day” this year, when the world prepares itself for some shooglin and dramming (that’s dancing and drinking) with “Embassies” across the world springing up to host the Ardbog Day release. Last years offering was reviewed by me here, this year it’s called Ardbog and I’ve already dug it.
Ardbog Day is best experienced at the distillery itself where they really throw quite a party (as well as some peat). There are numerous additional tastings and tours to join but for the more active among you, why not try one of the many other shenanigans on offer- such as The Peat and Spade Race, The Ardbeg Wheelbarrow Race, The Peat Sack Race, Boggy Welly Tossing, Dribbling Ardbog style, Bog of WarNot to name just a few. If Islay is just a bit too far from home, check out where your nearest Embassy is and join them for a dram or two. If you are in London, then sign up for the Ardbog Day March and get your hands dirty with whatever they have planned. I’ve heard sheep walking over a Thames bridge, but my source is unreliable at best.
Anyway, enough about the party, what about the whisky?
Ardbog is a 10 year old single malt which is a combination of spirit matured in both Ex-Bourbon American oak and Ex-Manzanilla Sherry butt.
Dr Bill Lumsden, Director of Distillation and Whisky Creation said about Ardbog “At its heart our hallmark smoky yet fruity and floral spirit has been matured in Spanish ex-Manzanilla sherry casks for ten years, which has then been wrapped with traditional Ardbeg of the same age that is matured in American ex-bourbon oak casks. The Manzanilla maturation weaves salty flavours through the whisky which is then balanced with the maple syrup creaminess of the first-fill ex-bourbon casks.”
Ardbeg Ardbog Single Malt Whisky
10 year old
52.1% ABV
Non-Chill Filtered
Release date: 1 June 2013
RRP £79.99
Appearance: Rose gold with polished bronze
Nose: An inviting nose, rich and complex with both soft floral and deep earthy notes. Honeycomb with dark chocolate deepens to liquorice root dipped in caramel. Freshly dug peat combines with gentle smoke and a hint of carbolic soap creating an earthy tone with a savory edge like pata negra ham. To the end, and with a splash of water, its cider apples rolled in ash.
Palate: Creamy and full, the rich palate delivers much of the notes from the nose, swirling and drifting between sweet flowers into earthy herbaceous tones. Mid palate is hit with a salty, brine like twist wrapped in gentle peat smoke and prickly spice. Cinder toffee, clove, salted almonds and a side of grilled artichoke in peppered olive oil. Quite a mouthful!
Finish: An oily finish, lingering peat smoke and a constant sweet/savory battle in the mouth
Summary: I was quite taken aback by this one, softer than expected and a fabulous mixture of twisting sensations. Nothing really takes over, everything seems to harmonize so well. This is nothing like the standard 10 year old Ardbeg, it’s much more refined, rounded and complex.
It seems that Talisker fans are really being spoiled at the moment after the recent release of Talisker Storm hot on its heels (or should that be stern) we have Talisker Port Ruighe.
Finding new names for new whisky releases must be a constant battle for the industry but at least there is always Gaelic to fall back on. Port Ruighe is named after the main port on the Isle of Skye, Portree. The town was originally know as Kiltragleann (The Church at the Foot of the Glen) but it is thought than in 1540, after a visit by King James V of Scotland to show his power over the Scottish lairds, it was renamed Portree which in the Gaelic tongue “Portrigh” means “The Kings Port“. This is often contested as some believe that the town’s name is derived from the Gaelic, “Port Ruighe” meaning “slope harbour“. Whatever the originals of the name, we do know for sure that this release has been created “as a tribute to the great Scottish trading-houses such as the Cockburns, Grahams and Symingtons who were instrumental in the creation and global growth of the port wine trade” because the press release told me so. So thats the name, what about the whisky?
Port Ruighe has been created by drawing from stock matured in American oak and European oak refill casks before being “finished” (transferred all together into another cask for a short time to draw final character) in ex-port casks called “pipes”. These final resting casks impart light fruity notes usually of strawberry or cherry to a spirit along with a faint pink hue to the colour. Like Talisker Storm, Port Ruighe has been release without an age statement and at the standard Talisker strength of 45.8% alcohol by volume.
Talisker Port Ruighe Single Malt Scotch Whisky
No Age Statement
45.8% ABV
Port Pipe Finish
RRP TBC (but circa £60)
Appearance: Rose gold with deep orange.
Nose: Deep charred cedar, spent match to the fore with rich sweet plum sponge, spiced orange marmalade, apple blossom honey backing it up to deliver a rounded, full nose of well integrated bold aromas. A creamy edge like milk bottle chews/play-do seems to linger overall whilst the peated element is kept low rather than the main focus.
Palate: Smooth and rich to begin. The complex sweet fruity notes found on the nose immediate apparent in the mouth with orchard fruits of quince, pippin apple, cherry mix before cranberry dryness. Additional sweetness is delivered in the form of honey and earthy spices with a touch of nutty chocolate. Mid palate is brought alive with a tingling mixture of cooling salt and pepper followed with coal tar soap, samphire and charred cinnamon which incredibly manages to deliver classic Talisker flavours even after all that has gone before.
Finish: It’s all about the peat now. Lingering oily seaside smoke delightfully delivered with elegance and panache. Salty, peppery and very much Talisker.
Summary: What is most interesting here is that normally port finished whisky is more about the character the port will deliver as I mentioned at the beginning. More soft red fruit is expected. But here we have a great example of using the development to integrate with a classic whisky without destroying the base “DNA”, far from it. The resulting flavours have, for me created a Talisker expression which is different enough for a fan to seek out on a regular basis without being too “out of the ordinary”. Sweeter, yes, but now overpowering so. Great stuff.
When was the last time you heard someone say “Oh, I stay away from peated whisky as I’m not a fan”. I hear it in a regular basis as guests at Dramatic Whisky events come to grips with the various styles of drams on offer. But more often than not that statement is followed by “especially Islay“. Now, it’s this last part that sends me into a mini meltdown and it is truly the fault of the whisky industry from the past. Regions were to a point, a quick way of introducing people to various styles of whisky, but this lingering categorisation only serves to restrict the consumers choices rather than aid them. I wrote a bit about them here which goes into a bit more detail but basically, if you choose your whisky only by region, you’ll miss out on some gems in the whisky world which brings me neatly onto Bunnahabhain.
Bunnahabain, pronounced “Boona-haa-ven” and meaning ‘stream foot” or ‘mouth of the river’ with its location at the end of the Margadale river from where the distillery draws its water from, is located on the north-east part of the island rather isolated in comparison to the other distilleries on Islay. Since 1881 the distillery has been producing whisky and whilst it was true that at that point the whisky would have been peated, today it is one of only two distilleries on Isaly that does not have peated whisky as its “core release” the other being Bruichladdich. With its own floor maltings ceasing in 1963 its safe to say the change probably came some time around then.
So what of the whisky today? The most easily accessible are the 12, 18 and 25 year old whiskies with Toiteach as the limited edition “peated” style all at the higher abv of 46.3% and non chill-filtered, a move in recent times across the board from current owners Burn Stewart Distillers and welcomed by Bunnahabhain fans. I also had the good fortune to review the recent 40 year old release which was a stunning dram indeed. Bunnahabhain has always been a whisky I would opt for if I saw it on a back bar somewhere as its coastal style and soft character is just what I look for in my malts.
Nose: If ever a whisky had an aroma of its origins, this is it. Fresh sea air on a Scottish pebble beach. Samphire over driftwood and lifts of fresh ginger.
Palate: Chewy and rich with fresh ginger creams, malty mid palate and salted caramel. Warming yet still fresh notes of the sea.
Finish: Ginger and vanilla spice linger with a hint of earthy mocha.
Nose:The DNA of the seaside emerges first, salty air, tarry ropes wrapped in leather with bold sherry character. Date and fig loaf sprinkled with nutmeg and an espresso on the side.
Palate: Big on the sherry influence, spiced with mace, leather and hints of pipe tobacco and roasted brazil nut. There is still the core message of salted sweetness blended through this bold palate.
Finish: Waves of salty almonds washed down with sherry and a bundle of earthy spices behind.
Nose: Sweet leather and cherry wood polished with linseed oil. Rich spices, old velvet, driftwood and tarry rope - the nose twists and turns around the central elements.
Palate: Bursting with rich deep sherry soaked dark fruits, mixed spice and Demerara sugar. It seems spiky at first, but is instantly calmed by a creamy vanilla element, smooths out and relaxes leaving behind a trail of deliciousness.
Finish: Incredibly long, old leather, slight tannin grip and a hint of over roasted chestnut almost charred.
Nose: Immediate peat smoke but with an unmistakable coastal character. Sweet salty air and drifts of dry citrus peel (tangerine) in the background. Old fish and chips wrapper with a bit of honey, vanilla and samphire all in there.
Palate: A sweet smoke, rich and playful on the palate, parma ham and smoked figs with a slightly medicinal citrus edge somewhere between menthol and lime.
Finish: unsurprisingley it’s the sweeter side of the peat smoke that lingers, turning slightly salty at the end.
Summary: A fine line-up indeed with just about everythign you could ask for. The style is eveident throughout the range despite the change of cask, that coastal element shines and helps maintain the Bunnahabhain message.
When I first heard that Balvenie were to release another version of the Single Barrel, this time a 12 year old, I got rather excited. Having always been a fan of the Single Barrel 15 year old, this newest expression was sure to get my lips smacking.
Single cask whiskies are a perfect time-shot of maturation, with each cask delivering a different and unique character to the whisky resting within and with no other casks married into batches, finding them is a rare treat. I say rare, because normally single cask expressions are limited in number. By their very nature, there is only as much as the cask can hold and once gone, never to be replicated. Normally it’s the selection of a malt master who will tend to discover a certain cask, resting and maturing at just the right pace which seems to be delivering a certain style, still in keeping with that of the distillery but a perfectly unique example. So when Balvenie decided to set aside casks to mature their whisky, releasing these after 15 years as single cask bottles it was a great opportunity for many more people that usual to sample some great drams. With each bottle being numbered and dated you could actually work out the age as not all seemed to be right for release at 15 years and if you do a little maths you can find examples of Balvenie Single Barrel 15 year old actually at 16 & 17 years and older.
This new 12 year old has been rested in First Fill casks of ex-bourbon. That may sound a little strange, calling a cask first fill if it’s actually second hand, but in the scotch industry we refer to cask use when it is used here. So an ex-bourbon cask is “first filled” with scotch, use it again and it becomes a refill cask. If the whisky was matured in a brand new cask, with no previous contents then it is know as “virgin cask” such as used by Deanston but few distillers use these as the powerful notes can sometimes be overpowering.
Nose: As you would expect from Balvenie, the signature notes of honey, dried citrus peels and light spice are immediate. But there is a hit of sliced pear and vanilla ice cream which seems to dry out the nose somewhat, which isn’t surprising considering the 47.8% abv. Apple blossom emerges to give a floral element and ties everything up in a well structured bouquet.
Palate: Rich and honey sweet with perfect grip of cinnamon spice. The fruity notes of dried peel and a hint of pineapple roll through the palate with a pear tarte tatin sweetness. A malty backbone with deep woody vanilla holds it all together.
Finish: Sweet spicy honey all the way with a dry oak tail.
Summary: Although bold at this level of ABV, I didn’t think the addition of water was required and that shows how well integrated the spirit and cask has become. Big, it certainly is but what impressed me is the integration of flavour as they raised and dipped around a thick mouth-feel. There is a lot going on, but thankfully all in the same direction rather than challenging the palate too much. Well worth seeking this one out and with an RRP of just under £50 I think Balvenie will need to lay a few more casks down.
There have been a few whiskies recently that have been revived in one way or another, Mackinlay’s Shackleton recovered from the ice of Antarctica or something slightly closer to home like The Tweedale for example, each with its own unique journey back towards our glasses once again. Bygone or lost distilleries are often very much sought after by the whisky fraternity but I think its just nice to hear that people go to the trouble to recreate something forgotten, bringing it back to new audiences and breathing a bit of life back into a brand such is the case with the latest sample to arrive at the desks of Dramatic Whisky HQ.
Stronachie distillery, Perthshire, was founded in the 1890s and remained in operation until 1928 when a shortgage of barley forced the then owners, St James Export Company Ltd, to close with the buildings eventually being demolished in the 1950′s. During its operation, the Stronachie brand was represented by Dewar Rattray and it was that company, known today as A.D. Rattray, that has brought Stronachie single malt back to life. After purchasing an early bottling of Stronachie at auction in the mid 1990′s, probably the last know example on the market, they set about recreating the malt from a small sample with guidance from Tim Morrison, formally of Morrison Bowmore and now owner of A.D.Rattray. It seemed that the character of the original sample most closely resembled current malt stock from the Benrinnes distillery helping move this project forward to its first re-release in 2001. The range currently available is formed of a 12 and 18 year old expression of which I have the 12 year old set out below. This particularr whisky is produced in small batches from a combination of two ex-sherry butts and four ex-bourbon casks.
Nose: Sliced green apple which has become slightly sweet with oxidisation, damp oak shavings, honey suckle and jasmine flowers (tea). Ground roasted hazelnuts which becomes a light charred note.
Palate: Rounded sweetness with a full malty note. Light spice of mace, cinnamon and white pepper before turning nutty (ground almond) with vanilla cream and freshly charred oak.
Finish: Lingering sweetness mixed with spice and a peppery grip.
Summary: It is of course a very difficult thing to try to recreate a malt, and it is difficult to know how closely this example matches the original product, so the only thing I can do is to sample the offering and review it as a stand alone which I am pleased to say is rather delightful. It certainly falls into my style of malt with a good balance of sweet and spice without too much overpowering vanilla and oak.
Having just returned from the recent “Warrior Release” of Highland Park, I wasn’t quite expecting another release to follow so soon, nor was I prepared for the intriguing manner in which this latest HP expression has made its way out into the world.
My postie is a very nice lady but she does have a habit of arriving at an ungodly hour and on this occasion remarked with her usual cheerfulness “Oh you are dressed!” which nicely set the discombobulated tone of the day as I struggled to wake up and remember if I had been inadvertently naked when I last saw her! The mystery continued when I opened the delivery to find an intriguing unmarked black box and the black envelope within holding a disc of paper on which were printed strange symbols and letters. It took a while for me to work out that it was actually a flexagon which when refolded in certain ways would deliver different messages. Three in fact. The crossed legged man wrapped in a serpent, and the lines “All is not what it seems” and ” A serpent stirs in the smoky shadows”. Had I upset someone so much they had sent some kind of death threat to me? Friends in the industry were also sent the same package and as we “tweeted” our thoughts, we tried to work out who it was from and what it was all about. The image did seem familiar and after a little more searching we found out it was to do with the second in The Valhalla Series from Highland Park- “Loki”
Got to love Google.
So this morning, a second parcel arrived. Similar black box, similarly plain looking package and yes I was dressed. Inside was a tube, with an origami serpent guarding a small bottle. Fortunately this time, the mystery was solved – the bottle had a label on it.
So who is Loki? From Norse mythology, he was a helper to the gods, but also a shape shifter and trickster seemingly causing them more problems than helping. I always thought, taking the word of the great Stan Lee, that he was the brother of Thor and the son of Odin , but apparently not and his name is set deep into ancient writings far beyond the modern portrayal of him. Anyway, with glass in hand it was easy to see why this slithery character was chosen as this whiskies name sake as the nose, palate and finish seems to shift and change at every approach. stirring stuff indeed.
Gerry Tosh, Global Marketing Manager says, “Thor was the first of its kind, a true quality malt built around an individual’s personality. This proved massively successful and it sold out globally. Loki will continue to take Highland Park and The Valhalla Collection into new territory.
While everyone will recognize the definite ‘Highland Park-ness’ of this 15 Years Old Single Malt, it will be the unexpected and surprisingly smoky dynamics that will really get palates excited and mouths talking. This is unlike any expression that has come before and will beguile and fascinate with its complexity and trickery. Remember, all is not as it seems.”
Highland Park “Loki” 15year old
The Valhalla Series
47.8% ABV
European cask and peated cask.
Limited to 21,000 bottles
RRP £170
Appearance: Rose gold with like honey.
Nose: Artist oil paint, fresh squeezed orange juice, hessian cloth, fresh hay, linseed oil, warm honey blossom, rich malt, licorice root and a note of perished vulcanized rubber. Smoke never really appears, taking the form of the rubber note instead. Well developed but very complex.
Palate: A syrupy and rich beginning with burnt butter, walnut oil, busts of peat smoke and charred meat making up the start of the palate. Vanilla sauce over dried tropical peels of grapefruit and papaya, woody birch sap honey follows with ginger spice and ends with molasses licorice and lime preserve coated with peat smoke.
Finish: Dried peel, chunks of charred wood and earthy spices all fight for palate possession as the smokey finish grips in.
Summary: From first nosing this whisky, to the initial taste, then going back to it after a few minutes it had become three very different drams. Unmistakably Highland Park, yet at the same time layered with citrus and a level of peat smoke far greater than normally expected. But give it a minute and it switches round, the smoke dies, the warm spices emerge and the citrus calms. Then try again. Nothing is as it seems.
Highland Park has always been a favourite of mine although I am rather spoiled having tasted the 50 Year old last year- but I do really get to grips with its house style and character. So when I was invited last month to the launch of their new “Warrior Series” I was very much looking forward to it.
The six new expressions will be available through Travel Retail and have been created to showcase flavour through different maturation and specifically the increased use of European sherry cask as you move up through the range. Following on from previous travel retail releases, such as Leif Eriksson and Drakkar, comes this new range of six single malts.
Each whisky has been named after a Viking warrior, aligning its strength and intrigue with these heroes of a past time. Orkney has strong ties to Norse and Viking culture with a colourful history and the range is set to tell the story of each of its namesake.
Speaking at the launch, Global Marketing Manager Gerry Tosh said:
“The Warrior Series is a natural progression for Highland Park, both in brand terms and in global travel retail. By continuing the celebration of our rich and distinctive Norse heritage we are able to tell stories which bring the brand and its products to life. To further this evolution, the whisky maker has crafted six individual whiskies which collectively offer drinkers a new style of taste journey, still classically Highland Park from start to finish, but giving them a different and holistic experience.”
The range is to be released in two part, with the latter three expressions due for release in the summer.
Svein- The ultimate Viking chieftain whose exploits lie at the heart of the Orkneyinga Saga and his appetite for adventure and merriment are legendary.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky- Svein
40% abv No age statement
RRP €40 1 litre Bottle
90% American Oak, 10% European Oak
Appearance: Pale straw with light yellows.
Nose: Fruity and floral, the light character of this whisky is immediate. Redcurrants, woody spices and a light nut oil layer through the nose with some richer smoked citrus elements in the background.
Palate: Charred cedar wood with warm vanilla. Linseed and light spices turning towards dry apricots, orange pith mixed with malt.
Finish: A lingering oil notes helps cling onto the citrus element with light wood/malt.
Einar- Was the Earl of Orkney from 1014. A hard and successful Viking, often venturing on many long voyages, he was relentless in this rule and clearly identifiable by his mighty axe.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky – Einar
40% abv
No Age Statement
RRP €53 1 Litre Bottle
75% American Oak, 25% European Oak
Appearance: White gold with ripe straw.
Nose: Chestnuts in honey with drifts of light smoke never amounting to more than a rubber note. Tropical peel with pepper and malt.
Palate: Pronounce, grippy dry smoke with creamy oil and ginger. Soft floral notes wrap around the woody vanilla to contain it and balance out the spices.
Finish: The smokey barley hangs around with sweet floral notes drifting through.
Harald- Was an incredible character in the founding of the Orkney earldom, as well as having a major role in the development of Viking history. King of Norway, Harald Fairhair was famed for his army, which was revered across the world at the time.
Highland Park Single Malt Whisky – Harald
40% abv
No Age Statement
RRP €75
50% American Oak, 50% European Oak
Appearance: Warm gold with light yellows.
Nose: A rich nose of integrated smoke with ginger, cedar, chestnuts and red fruit compote. An earthy rubber note lingers in the background, a mix of spice and smoke. Deeper citrus and tropical notes are hard to find but are in there.
Palate: Creamy vanilla, tingling ginger and cinnamon with oily notes and a hint of cocoa. Smoke is more subdues here, covered by the spicier notes derived from the increase in European oak lending more a raised platform for the other flavours to lay over rather than be the dominant force.
Finish: Oily citrus with soft peat smoke and earthy spices.
Summary: It is very interesting to see the change in character through these three whiskies as they change the wood programme and I certainly was most taken by the balanced deeper notes found in the Harald bottle. Highland Park fans certainly wont be disappointed in these three, although perhaps the first two are a little on the lighter side. I also had the opportunity to sample the next three, yet unreleased expressions which increase the European oak further and was very happy with the results, but will keep those notes to myself until the summer.
On a recent trip back to Scotland I managed to squeeze a quick visit to Glengoyne into my crazy schedule and as always it was a pleasure, but I was also keen to go somewhere I had never been. Luckily for me Deanston was not too far from where I was based for the week and despite the fact I have probably driven past the end of the road thousands of times before, this would be my first “official” visit. The visitor center only opened last year though so I can be forgiven. I wrote before about the distillery from my research and reviewed the 12 Year old here but this time I wanted to have a look around and get hold of some of the distillery releases.
The distillery might not be in the running for “prettiest” in Scotland, but just like a bottle of whisky, it’s whats inside that counts and not only is the story of Deanston interesting, but the welcome is well worth seeking out. The visitor center is recently opened and it is clear to see that everyone involved is very proud indeed. Being met by Peter Semple, visitors and facilities manager we avoided the normal tour and headed straight for the heart of the distillery, stopping off prior to get an insight into the social history of the once cotton mill turned whisky distillery.
There were two particular whiskies that I had heard were available from the distillery which are not seen that often and I was keen to sit down with Peter and run through them. The first being a Spanish Oak release and the second, a 1974 bottling which, as it is the year of my birth is always of interest to me. Sadly, Peters hospitality did not stretch as far as to donate a bottle to my birthday fund, but at £800 a bottle, you cant blame him.
The first to review was the Spanish Oak- a 19 year old whisky matured first in ex American Bourbon cask for 11 years before spending a further 8 year in Spanish cask, namely Gonzalez Byass Lapanto brandy cask. This solera matured brandy is of 15 years or older and is the only brandy produced in Jerez.
Nose: Dark skinned fruit and light linseed oil start the proceedings with a drying note of struck match in the background. Brandy butter over red apple core with warming spices of mace, clove and cinnamon. Rich honey becomes toffee like but remains in check with a base of forest fruit compote.
Palate: Grippy at first, a teardrop of water helped to calm the assertive spice and phosphorous elements which became plummy and sweet like stewed fruits of prune, blackcurrant and cherry pie. An earthy spice with sweetness such as liquorice root maintained balance.
Finish: Earthy spice of sweet liquorice root takes hold with blackcurrants on dry toast to the end.
Nose: Chicory, coffee essence and toffee begin this rich, aromatic nose before baked apple with molasses drizzle come in. The fruity element remains but becomes deeper and turns to blackcurrant, cassis, cherry and honey. Towards the end or the lingering scent, a lifting waft of tea-tree honey helps balance the richness.
Palate: A bold start with gripping spices and edgy mineral notes before turning sweet with baked apple. It takes a little time to calm and allow the honey and toffee element to speak for a short while before the spices run riot again. Oily, tingling and spiking throughout the fruity mid palate this could be seen as a challenging whisky perhaps, but in a great way. Fruit, nut, honey and spice- its all in there.
Finish: Turning nutty with a slightly tarry note with coffee bitter edge. The lingering palate never seems to fade. Outstanding.
Summary: If the friendliness of this particularly “new” distillery wasn’t enough to make you stop and say hello- then both these drams waiting for you at the end will surely clinch it. Both offering up something totally different between them and a far cry from the standard Deanston 12 year old and the house style we might expect. I certainly loved both of them and hope Peter remembers my birthday on July 30th
It’s always a bit of a risk allowing someone else to shape the future of things, just look what happens to the X Factor when it goes to public voting! You just never know the outcome.
At least Glenmorangie, with their Cask Masters programme has started of with three exceptional “acts” to choose from – not a Rylan to be seen thank goodness.
I recently attended The Deck at the National Theatre to hear about the launch of this ever so ambitious idea. Dr Bill Lumsden, who oversees the whisky for both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg talked us through three differently finished Glenmorangie whiskies and explained that with the use of the internet, social media and tasting events the public can lodge a vote as to which whisky shall make it to the eventual commercial bottling. But it does not just end there. Not only will the liquid be chosen by the public, but also the bottle, the label, the name and event the market in which to first launch the new release. Brave indeed.
Over the next 18 months, you too can help shape the future of this dram by logging onto www.glenmorangie.com/caskmasters. The final whisky will be released towards the latter part of 2014.
Dr Bill Lumsden explained:
“This is a very bold move for us – for years we have listened to fans of the brand and their views and reactions to the whiskies we have introduced.
“Now it’s their turn to become truly involved and I hope as many whisky aficionados as possible around the world will be able to join in and enjoy each stage of this exciting 18 month journey.
“We have crafted three rare whiskies for fans to choose from and those participating will be able to follow the process and interact online.”
With a few tasting notes already up on the website to help guide along those who may be new to the world of whisky, I thought I would add my own. The three chosen casks we tried at the event are not yet finished, but are close enough to give you an idea of the final character- It was clear that the good Dr had a favourite amongst the three, coughing behind clenched fist a barley audible “C” but the final decision is now out of his hands altogether. Over to us.
Sample “A”
A 15 year old Glenmorangie at 46% ABV rested for 10 years in American ex-Bourbon cask to be transferred to an ex Grand Cru Burgundy cask for the last 5 years and without giving too much away, Dr Lumsden mentioned Cotes de Nuit to help narrow down the general area.
Appearance: Pale gold with warm orange
Nose: fruity to start with a dry-ish mineral note and floral element before turning into what is normally associated with a well aged Point Noir- that typical farmyard smell, mushroom, truffle oil and earthy tones. The nose is lifted with the appearance of orange oil before turning deeper into Kirsh.
Palate: Creamy and rich with spices of mace, vanilla and orange polish on old wood. An autumnal taste helps link it back to the elements found on the nose.
Sample “B”
Again, this sample is around 15 years old, 46% ABV and for its first 9 years, American ex-bourbon cask was its home before being decanted for a further 6 years into an ex Bordeaux cask. This time we were given a bigger hint as to its previous contents- Chateau Montrose no less!
Appearance: Russet apple and bronze.
Nose: Another fruity start but this time it remains. Red fruits and deep citrus, Pencil shavings, Plums and apricot all in attendance with a lighter floral note that seems to drift between honeysuckle and eucalyptus leaf.
Palate: Soft grassy, floral elements and spiced wood, the delicate balance of this whisky tips between the two sides with ease drawing in on the classic Glenmorangie DNA and the borrowed character of a deep mature claret. Dry spice of white pepper comes towards the finish but is accompanied with stone fruits and light cedar wood.
Sample “C”
An increase in age over the previous samples, this 18 year old 46% ABV example has been finished in an ex-Manzanilla cask. We were not given the exact timings with this one.
Appearance: Mid gold with copper.
Nose: Struck match, butter and honeysuckle right at the fore developing a salty olive note as one might expect from the cask. Linseed oil, toffee and orange peel develop later but its all about that light sherry influenced base.
Palate: Immediately sweet, then dries with brine and olive leaf. New-buck leather and suede over cherry wood and walnuts. Its a rather strangely welcoming taste, umami if you like. switching all the time between fruity floral and salt wood. Complex and interesting, a departure from the Glenmorangie style it certainly is and I can see why it has become a stand out for Bill.
Summary: Three outstandingly “unnecessarily well made” whiskies each with something very different to say. For me, sample C was just a little bit too far and I was drawn more toward B with its perfect fruit and floral notes. I liked A also, but not sure if I could settle down each time and not question it over and over again. Of course, my vote will only be one of many and this will certainly keep the interest high as we see this develop over the next 18 months. Just for the record, I voted for B, I did not ever vote for Rylan.
In this world of “Top Ten” lists, it would be of no surprise to find Glengoyne distillery high up the standings of a “prettiest distilleries” list (actually, I might have to put that together). Nestled at the foot of the Trossach hills in central Scotland and taking its name from Glen Guin meaning valley of the wild goose, a feature carried onto the new packaging in the form of small stria to represent the goose feather, Glengoyne has been producing whisky for nearly 200 years. Looking at the bottle, it clearly states 1833 as its established date, however, like most distilleries in Scotland, that date is more to do when the excise man caught them producing whisky without license and many distilleries have a much earlier date to mark first production with. But time is important at Glengoyne, with the casks they use taking six years to prepare, a 56 hr fermentation and one of the longest distillation times in the industry before maturing in those costly ex-sherry cask. Curiously, the distillery straddles the “highland line” with distilation taking place in the highlands, yet maturation taking place over the road in the lowlands, but you know my thoughts on whisky regions anyway! You would be mistaken if you think that all this extra time is simply to take life at a bit more of a leisurly pace, although that may be part of the reason, Glengoyne has always been held in high esteem for its careful approach with rewarding results. The normal expressions that can be found of Glengoyne are 10, 12, 17, and 21 year old but two have just been replaced and one new addition in the form of a cask strength all of which I was introduced to recently.
Glengoyne 15 year old single malt (replaces the 12)
43% ABV
70% first fill ex sherry cask, 30% refill ex sherry cask
Appearance- Rose gold highlighted with apple green.
Nose- Immediately opens with warm honey, nut oil, baked apples, dried apricots and a light cherry note. Spices come through as fresh ginger, pineapple and light vanilla with cinnamon. Towards the end of the note, a dryer, more mineral element of green tea leaf emerges.
Palate- Much of that detected in the nose makes a second appearance here on the palate, rich orchard fruits, honey and spice but with the added weight of chewy malt as it heads towards the finish.
Finish- Lingering well balanced spice and fruit with a malt backbone.
Glengoyne 18 year old single malt (replacing the 17)
43% ABV
50% 1st fill ex sherry cask, 50% refill ex sherry cask
Nose- Oily and spiced with linseed oil, cricket bat and glaziers putty lifted towards fruity notes of bergamot, dried mandarin peel and stewed orchard red fruits.
Palate-Again, many of the elements found in the aroma are carried over here. Rich and nutty with chewy fruits which add depth and sweetness to the otherwise dry spiced palate. Struck match comes through as the final spice.
Finish- lingering prickly sweet spice and drying struck match in perfect balance.
Nose- Cinder toffee, caramac bar, thick cut marmalade and chicory make up the abundantly rich and slightly oily nose with a good malty background aroma of banana bread.
Palate- Characteristically Glengoyne with its nutty oil of linseed and fruit, bell peppers, slightly tropical again with warm banana, caramel and hints of light citrus to light the palate. with a splash of water, the fruity elements come to the fore with delicious buttered digestive and toffee banana.
Finish- lingering spice of mostly pepper, butter and vanilla.
Summary- Three excellent drams in their own right, each delivering very different characteristics whilst still showing the familiar DNA of Glengoyne. For me, the 15 actually delivered a more complex experience than either of the other two with it’s clever balancing act of various casks. Prices are perhaps above that of most other brands of similar age, but dont let this put you off as The Glengoyne is certainly worth paying (and waiting) for.
