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Bunnahabhain 40 year old. Lost and found

You know that feeling of panic that sets in when you loose something like a set of keys and you are on a tight schedule, slapping pockets, turning over sofa cushions in a frantic attempt to discover their hiding place. Horrid isn’t it, but when you eventually find them the rush of relief is great. Or when you remember about a possession you haven’t seen in a while, you know you have it, but its just not been in your life and when you do stumble across it again, its welcomed back and put to good use.

So imagine if you happened to stumble across a cask of 40 year old whisky that you didn’t realise you had. Just how would that feel? Well, you could ask Ian MacMillan, Master Distiller at Bunnahabhain because thats exactly what happened to him when he found some ‘Turney’ casks, which were filled with Bunnahabhain whisky over 40 years ago by Glasgow wine merchants J G Turney. I suppose its difficult to imagine how you ‘forget’ a few casks, but as Bunnahabhain store around 21,000 casks at the distilleries warehouse on Islay, (some of which will make its way into the superb Black Bottle blend) it becomes a bit easier to understand.

Bunnahabhain has long been a favourite of mine and I have used a number of bottles including the duty free releases of Darach Ur  in my Dramatic Whisky events to show people that not all whisky from Islay is peated as is the popular misconception about whisky regions. Therefore, I was more than delighted to reciev a sample of the newly discovered 40 year old Bunnahabhain which was accompanied by a illustration from the label created by  Iain McIntoshScots illustrator, which depicts the journey this rested malt has undergone.

Bunnhabhain Single Malt Scotch Whisky

40 Years Old

Limited release of 750 bottles

ABV 41.7% vol. Un-chillfiltered

RRP: £1999

Appearance: Burnished copper with rose gold

Nose: Candied orange, vanilla wax cande, nougat and heather honey. Light earthy spice, ginger bread and balsa wood all very well integrated and still lively. Waxed leather saddle with lavender and violets round off the nose.

Palate: Orange oil with a mineral note, almost diesel like before rounded malt and ginger spice open the palate up allowing deeper vanilla and earthy spice to grip hold. Seems to sit on top of your tongue for a while before sinking in. Very little wood element which is surprising considering the age.

Finish: Clean yet spicy, again almost a mineral/fuel-like dryness before light oak and vanilla linger.

Summary: Certainly lively for its age and and unsurprisingly complex but its this assertive spice that perhaps shows the greatest departure from the classic Bunnahabhain style. Its heading towards a dryer style of whisky, perhaps held together with the waxy element before becoming too oaky.

Right, I’m off to search down the back of the sofa for my keys again.

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Posted by on November 14, 2012 in Reviews, tasting, Whisky

 

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Speyburn – Bradan Orach and Chocolates

A new arrival through my door this week was a bottle of Speyburn “Brandan Orach” (Golden Salmon for those not familiar with the Gaelic tongue). I’m often confused by the choice of name for whisky, and this one joins those ranks- Golden Salmon? Is it to be considered as an indicator of the whisky’s quality or taste as surely this is what the drinker is looking for? Will this bottle burst forth with fishy freshness or perhaps a whiff of fisherman’s friend?

Charbonnel’s amazing Banoffee Truffles.

Either way, It was destined to be used at a forthcoming tasting I was holding and would be paired with a selected Charbonnel et Walker chocolate. But which one was the question now posed. Stopping off at the Liverpool Street branch of this rather fine chocolatier, I obviously had to let the staff try a little before helping me select the right accompaniment and they seems to have little hesitation. With the main character of the whisky seemingly light and fruity we played around with some citrus lead chocolates before finally, as the caramel notes became apparent, I pointed at the Banoffee truffle chocolate saying “let’s try this one!”

Surprisingly, or perhaps not, it was an amazing combination. The bursting freshness of the whisky tamed somewhat by the sweet, buttery chocolate but at the same time the banana element of the truffle amplified the caramel and tropical fruit note that wasn’t immediately apparent upon first tasting the whisky on its own.

Safe to say, the gathered 25 guests were more than happy to be guinea-pigs at the tasting an hour later and all agreed that the combination was surprising and a perfect partnership.

Speyburn Bradan Orach

Single malt whisky 

No age statement

40% Alcohol

Appearance: Clear bright yellow gold.

Nose: rich note of malt new make and warm caramel, a high spirited start softened by toffee apple and lighter notes of unripe banana served on an oak stave.

Palate: Lively to begin with grippy tannic spice and assertive spirit before the slightly buttery apple and caramel strudel with banana parfait pops in.

Finish: Light and lively turns smooth and creamy with lingering buttery vanilla and toffee.

It’s not often I think about chilling whisky, but I reckon I might give this one a try. Popping it in the fridge for a few hours and getting it nice and cold might just be the perfect accompaniment to a summers day picnic in the park. With some banana loaf on the side of course – hey wait, maybe thats whats meant by the “golden salmon”? If you fancy trying some for yourself then you can buy it here.

 
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Posted by on August 16, 2012 in Reviews, tasting

 

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The Spirit of Broadside

Funny how things change, develop and in some cases simply conform whilst others stubbornly cling to an original idea for better or for worse. But what happens when something with heritage and a reputation for consistant quality goes and does something completely out of the ordinary? Risky strategy for any business to adopt…but one such company has recently emerged to do just that and succeed.

Well, I say “emerged” but that does make Adnams sound like they are some new kid on the block, but far from it, as they have been brewing great beers in Southwold since 1872.  Adnams lay claim to some 24 million pints of beer a year. Whilst still a family company, Adnams pride themselves in innovation which is of key value in the success and development in recent years and also key in the decision to create spirits alongside the famed beer.

They now produce Gin, vodka, limoncello, liqueurs, whisky, absinth and eau de vie amongst a few other secret projects quietly ageing down in the cellars.

I have been fortunate to try all of the above, but as my company name suggests, I want to stick to reviews on the oak aged spirits. Although both the gin and vodka produced at Adnams are being aged in wood, and both to very good effect I might add.  The limoncello is first class, bursting with freshness and lemon sunshine. The whisky, whilst only 18 month old at the time of sampling, is interesting and worthy of a wait to full maturation to try again. It is of note, that with all the spirit produced at the distillery, they have chosen to age in brand new wood rather than first fill. This might not always be the case, but for now it seems that way.

The master distiller at Adnams, John McCarthy, was kind enough to show me round on my recent visit and sample a few of the new “experiments” such as an absinth which turns violet with water! You can’t help but think there is a bit of Willy Wonka magic happening amongst the shiny copper and stainless steel contraptions neatly crammed into the old brewery building.

First off, the eau de vie is a distilled beer, as is all whisky in essence, yet due to the fact that hops are added to ale, it can’t be called whisky (one too many ingredients). Eau de vie has strong links to whisky, for a start, it is where the word Whisky originates…eau de vie means “water of life”, and in the old Scots tongue, this translated to “uisge beatha“, which in time was anglicised  to sound like whisk- bay (whisky).

Broadside is the beer they have selected to distill and it is brewed from pale ale malt and first gold hops and was created in 1972 to commemorate the tricentenary of the Battle of Sole Bay, fought against the Dutch Republic in 1672 off the Southwold coast. The beer itself is rich in flavours of malt and hops and bottled at 6.3% abv. It is useful to know that the bottled version is slightly different to the cask version, the former  know as ‘Strong Original’ is true to the original recipe were as the cask edition is a different recipe and ABV. Both recipes do create a dark ruby beer with a deep fruity nose and palate which has is likened to Dundee cake and molasses. Hopefully, this character will remain through the distilling process and be apparent in the eau de vie. Once distilled, the new make spirit is transferred to heavy charred Russian oak casks and set to rest for 12 months in the cellars below the distillery.

Adnams Spirit of Broadside

Distilled 2011, bottled 2012

Non-vintage

43% abv

Appearance:

Burnished gold

Nose:

Humbugs and warm fig with light orange notes coming through. Quite a bit of fresh vanilla and youthful oak wrap around a malty new make nose but manages to maintain a lively feel on the otherwise heavy aroma.

Palate:

The appearance of light charred wood smoke makes the spicy palate settle with nutmeg and generous cinnamon before lighter nut elements take hold and help dry out the mouth. Less fruit than the nose may have led us to believe, perhaps hidden in the adolescence of the spirit.

Finish:

The light smoke play a major role on the finish accompanied by soft caramel and peppery spice.

All-round, an interesting spirit, and great to see something new from such an establish company who are clearly not shy at experimenting, but I would be interested to see how the product develops with a touch more age in those feisty new casks.

 
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Posted by on May 14, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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